Broken Door Buffers - Quick Fix

[jmd88]

Hey Friends, I was working on my 88'911 over the holiday in the cold and closed the door... This resulted in the driver side lower striker buffer breaking and the door refusing to close and latch. It was snowing at the time. This meant there was no time for a PP, overnight of the replacement parts (though an order has been placed and yet to be delivered... thanks to the snow). I had to do something faster that was better than a stick up against the door to keep it closed... a big storm was coming and sadly, my car was outside.

I jumped on my computer and model up this replacement buffer for 3D printing:








Importing my drawing into fusion 360 at 1.33%, I was able to get this model setup and ready to be printed (50% infill in carbon reinforced PLA) and installed on the car in 2.3 hours for both sides. They work perfectly!

Hit me up if you want the .STL for your own solution (use at your own risk but I've got at least 50 door open/close tests on each side with no issue) - while I printed these at 50% infill, I'd print them at 100% overnight if you have the time and it isn't snowing outside.

I do have pelican parts replacements on their way but it's a week after I needed them and they've still not arrived - at no fault of PP - purely a weather issue.

If you've got a 3d printer and broken door buffers, this might be a good fix. $.50 in material and 2.3 hours in time to get new buffers for both sides vs. the PP/Rennlist replacements... if you're in a jam.

The community has helped me out... this is me just trying to give back.

[jmd88]

Steps involved:
1. Print the parts
2. Remove the door strikers for each side
3. Use a vice, a 10mm socket and a small finishing nail.
3.a. Put the socket on the door sill side of the striker and use the nail against the outside to press out each pin, using your vice as the press.
4. Rotate the plate face (might need some percussive force here, suggest rubber BFH)
5. Remove lower buffer
6. Replace lower buffer with printed buffer.
7. Re-align face plate of door strike closing unit
8. Replace the pins you pressed out on step 3/3.a
9. Reinstall door strikers with rebuilt striker buffers
10. Open a beer while you close your 911 door

Hope that helps someone in a jam like it did to get me through that moment.

[jaycee1977]

Very nice work

Sent from my SM-G998B using Tapatalk

[Larmo63]

Nice McGyver move!!!

[jmd88]

Thanks friends. It was a fun project. I was super excited that it worked the first time out of the gate. The bell cranks on my 'racecar' took 6 iterations to get right.

[crb07]

JM, nice work, cut a few extra and I will buy them. TurboTales needs four as well. Sending you a PM also for the file. May have to buy a 3D printer.

[Dmitry at Pelican Parts]

Excellent work - keep me posted on the order, hopefully it comes soon!

[72_sporto]

A big "thumbs up" from me! (Why is it so hard to add this emoji on Pelican?)

[brighton911]

Well done!

[jmd88]

Originally Posted by Dmitry at Pelican Parts

Excellent work - keep me posted on the order, hopefully it comes soon!

The parts just arrived, and boy these new plastic units are sweet! I'm going to keep running these self-produced parts until they break just out of my own curiosity and have shared the file with a few other folks so I'm curious to see their result as well.

Appreciate the positive vibes.

[sugarwood]

For anyone else who has no idea what this thread is about

[72_sporto]

It looks like they might not work on longhoods with the extra indents on the top plates. (Thinner top plates?) They didn't fit my 72.

[r-mm]

Very cool, I love pressing the 3DP into Porsche (and Alfa) service.

FYI there are also buffer rebuild kits available for all 911 strikers. I just rebuilt my early 912 strikers and will soon order kits for the 964.

[r-mm]

Pic...