Manifold
 

Intake manifold for Weber carbs, see my thread for more details

https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/744845-pendulum-outlaw-build-adventures-misadventures-19.html

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This is amazing. Is that pa6-cf and are you running 3d printed thermal insulators as well? I'm having amazing pa6-cf print results with my X1-C. If pa6-cf can withstand the temp of the head ports then I'll start printing my own new insulators this evening and find appropriate o-rings.

I had a vacuum leak between my heads and PMO intake manifolds last year and while having a convo with Parr about the thermal insulators, he mentioned to me about how it would be a much better design to go with grooved insulators with o-rings vs the traditional paper gasket so this is something I have been wanting to try out.

Jack, I used Bambu Labs PA HT – CF, as suggested by the thetorch. When I originally started this project I was looking at 3DX PA CF which has a heat deflection of 150c @ 0.45MPa. I would continue to use my phenolic spacers I had with the aluminum manifold. Phenolic has a heat deflection of 166c – 205c @ 1.8Mpa. But since being informed about Bambu Labs PA HT – CF heat deflection 194c @ 0.45MPa I would consider running the printed manifold without the phenolic spacers. This is the test manifold, future edition will have a few revisions and be taller with the gentle S curve to the flow path. I did search around the internet looking for good data on the head temp on the intake side but did not find reliable information. I imagine heat soak after the engine is shut off might be worst case. It anybody has data please post.

For the Orings I first bought 2mm dia cross section rings, they just looked small in section. I upgraded the design to 3mm dia , maybe a bit large looking? 2.5mm Goldie Locks?

Awesome work Tom. Would love to be able to print these or even just buy a set.

nice work Tom. Let us know how they do with heat cycles once you have them in use.

No harm in keeping the phenolic spacers to start with.

Thanks everyone!

Nick, Happy to have a discussion with you. I was thinking about posting this model on https://cults3d.com/en or Shapeways or some other site for sale. First customer discount and evaluator price, say $30 usd. I will update the model adding the height of the phenolic insulators to the base, if you want. A good adhesive joint gap is 0.2 to 0.3mm, so I want to add self centering nubs where parts are bonded together. I want to revise the o ring groove to better suit FDM printing without supports. The horizontal studs for the crossbar mount are just tapped into the CF Pa. My guess is that a stud threaded in 2x dia long would about the same pull out as a larger brass insert of 1x dia long. Just saying this is not the same as the aluminum castings where you can torque up the nut to rock ape spec. Currently the carb base dia is 40.0mm and the port dia is 36.3mm designed, actual measures off my printer is 39.6 x 36.05. I have not dial in all my settings yet. I can update the model to whatever dia you like, easy enough. I will post my print settings on my build thread. I have only modelled the right side manifold so far. The left side is more than a mirror image, needs a mount for the throttle bellcrank mount. I do have some family care commitments going on so it might take a few weeks for me to find time for the left manifold model. If you want to move ahead, I would like feedback details of your settings, printer and filament used and some good constructive feed back on your thoughts. What went right, what went wrong. I will sell the stl files for your personal use only, not to be shared, not to make parts for others and not to sell parts. You will need o rings, hex head bolts, studs and the top hat aluminum bushings, (I will give you the dimensions, for the bushings, make them yourself or get them made by one of many internet services out there) I used Permatex 500f epoxy. All FDM printers, print with a some variance so some fitting is required. Let me know your thoughts, cheers

Tom, Bambu has a PET-CF with a heat deflection rating of 205C. I have no idea of the head temps but regular (not high heat versions) phenolic spacers are usually good to about 260C so not all that far off. It may be possible to have a thin phenolic spacer against the PET-CF just for belt and suspenders.

Awesome work Tom, hope they stand the test of time.....so keep us informed as to any real life experience you can share.

D.

Hi everyone! I had no idea this thread existed until about an hour ago. Here's my contribution:

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/porsche-911-914-wiper-motor-shaft-caps



Porsche 911 914 Wiper Motor Shaft Caps. They fit over the hex nuts holding the wiper motor shafts to the cowl, under the wiper arm bases.

Replacement for Porsche P/N 90162892600. Should fit all 914s and 911s up to 1989. FDM in anything UV and thermally stable should do just fine. PETG, ABS, PA-anything, etc.

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Just found this thread, too - and I think it's going to be expensive.

Those printing these engine components - I know they are on the intake side - but what is the realistic reliability and logevity of these parts using the latest materials?

Stanglife, I am still at the trail and error stage, so can’t speak to the longevity and reliability. Since this is a first off printed manifold just replaces the cracked right side aluminum on my engine. My plan is to run it, check it, run it, check it etc, to see what if any issues are. And find out what actual head temps are at the port. I will then do some sort of load testing and probably a cross car load test to failure. If I remember correctly when testing a some vehicle components, a 5g curb slam is worst case for lateral loads. Then do suitable revisions including adding height and printing the left side. It will still be some time before running, just dropped the oil tank out today to find a leak issue.

Following a FB group for printed auto parts, someone did a intake manifold for a “low (?) boost turbo”, using 3mm walls. I didn’t pay attention to the brand, or model. I have not seem anybody post any failures. Doesn’t mean they don’t happen. Not a big fan of FB information, take it for what it is worth.

Tom,

How did you install those 2 horizontal studs on the side? Did you use inserts or just screw them in?

I've found that 3D printers are pretty terrible for printing any type of thread, they just don't deal with the sharp taper or edge of a thread very well. So I either print a hole with lots of perimeters and tap it or I use a captured nut or insert. Curious how you did yours

thanks

So far my intake pipe has zero issues, though of course it doesn't get that hot. Made from PAHT-CF (Carbon Fiber High Temp nylon).


With a good 3D printer (and a good laser while you are at it), you will literally find something that makes your car or shop better every day.

Need a custom fuel line clamp? Easy.
Need an NLA steering rack gasket? Easy

Man I love this.

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;):D

Printing at higher resolution, like 0.1mm, makes a difference in printing usable threads. However I use my threads plastic on plastic.

Once you have a 3D printer you will find a million uses for it. I find thingiverse useful but many times end up remaking the thing to be more to my liking or more suitable to what I want to do. Gotta get some usefulness out of that engineering degree, you know! If only there were more step files rather than just stl…

TheTorch, Nice work, same here 3d printer is just an amazing tool to have at home / shop. Great subject to follow in general, printer development and the material science, high temp and high speed filaments. A laser is on the wish list. No end of tools and parts, and the odd household items to print, gotta have a stand for the Echo Dot, Clairtone Project G

Eflight, horizontal studs holes were printed to tap drill size, drilled to tap drill size and tapped. My thoughts were the threaded length of the stud was more than 2x dia long, Thread inserts are roughly 1x dia long so which would have better pull out. Once the studs are in, in theory you don’t remove them. You could bond them as well to help the torque out. Would be an interesting study. I do plan to test, later after running the manifold for a bit.

Good video of insert options with data, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lYXTiJo_FQQ&t=161s



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Yeah at 0.2 I can get an ok thread for as small as an m4 screw, but its really not great. Also depends on orientation of the threaded hole on the print bed.

I'm not sure how much I have used my engineering degree to design and make 3D parts, though I guess the fundamentals come out during the design phase. I did not learn CAD until I retired.

But the things you can design and print are never ending. I just designed a new RC plane, S-3B Viking, Its printed and ready to fly but hasn't done so yet.

My fixture for modifying 964 calipers to radial mount worked out great!

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Mostly 944 files but some 911. Might be worth checking, once and awhile
https://www.carpokes.com/viewforum.php?f=20

I did this one:

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3d printed letters sized for the rear reflector. Pops out nicely and looks better than the pic.

Would anyone have the file to make this?

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