Thanks for this, they work great!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1709571176.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1709571176.jpg

As I know it, there are different plastics for 3d printing. Am curious... in general, what is the difference in the plastic options?

(I've not read every page so pardon me if this is a duplicate question.)

There are so many different materials now that it’s impossible to give a thorough breakdown. It’s best to identify the requirements for the piece and then work backwards; heat resistance, flexibility, rigidity, uv stability, etc…

I am just beginning my journey with some parts.

Here is my experience.

PLA is easy to print, cheap and is a great material for fast prototyping...I do everything first in PLA

ABS is a good tough material, but it is harder to print. I have had bed adhesion problems with corners of my console lifting and then the subsequent structural printing built in a warp.
You need to use some techniques in design and ways to hold the part to the bed plus the usual use of correct temperatures, heated bed and enclosure.

ASA is tougher but even harder to print. I have never gotten as good of a surface from ASA as I have from PLA or ABS, even with my textured bed. It seems to be best for internal parts which are not visible but need strength or parts where you will refinish it to make it pretty.

Pay attention to the print bed you use....if you want to replicate the textured look of many OEM plastic parts, then the textured plates do a pretty good job.
Smooth plates to just what they say, but the finish is usually not "great" but I see no issue with sanding and then a good coat of paint to make it pretty.

Note I have a Bambu Carbon X1 and it is about as fool proof as I can imagine, and it warns you pretty well if you have mismatch between plate and filament or some other problem.

It also manages the temperature of the bed and enclosure pretty well....interior runs typically in the 45c range with the bed around 100c.....which helps things like ABS.


Also, Youtube is your friend.....and I am very much still learning...

D.

If you are having bed adhesion problems I will recommend you try a coat of Aquanet hair spray in the purple can. I dont do any prints now without coating the bed with it first. It washes off with soap and water.

...good advice and I have only tried the glue sticks, not the hair spray yet. I will see if I can find it in my locale...hopefully.

D.

Glue stick and higher bed temp was the trick for me and my Bambu printer. Like significantly higher bed temp.

Textured plate also helps a lot.

That's a fine intro D. Thanks :)
.

I print a lot in ASA using PolyMaker ASA. (Link Below)

https://amzn.to/3V93Ytx

I have had really good luck with it using my Ender 3 that I have upgraded. I do not use an enclosure, but I have added an insulating pad to the bottom of the build plate heater. I run the bed at 110 deg C and use a PEI sheet for the bed. I run the first layer about 5 deg higher at the print head as well to promote a bit more adhesion and no fan. The material is tough! I have been selling a part that gets installed in the headliner of Hummers for a few years with no issues. Its out of the sun but gets very hot during sunny days. I also made a custom Guage holder that sits on the dash of my son's WRX in the hot South Florida Sun. Again over a year and it show no signs of fatigue and still looks great.

I also like the Polymer PLA as well and use it for prototyping and "Things" around the house and Garage. Below was my latest design to seal up my intake ports while working on my engine. I used brass thread inserts as well.

Bill

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1709914464.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1709914575.jpg

Nice caps Bill. Looks like you inserted metal threads.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/wat6.gif

Very cool....I will be copying those shortly, but any guidance to us newbies on putting in brass inserts?

Any particular inserts you find work best....tricks of the trade or ??

Thanks!

D.

I used these brass inserts:

https://amzn.to/3wLC1xH

And I have this tool:

https://amzn.to/43e9eOj

However, the tool can be substituted with a soldering iron if you are careful. You just need to have a tip small enough to fit into the threads and slowly apply pressure until it is seated. You need to make sure you stay square. I like this design as the thumb nuts are easy to spin on and off. I prototypes with printed threads, but there is no comparison. For the cost it makes these covers a nice tool that will last forever. That is Yellow Polymaker PLA.


Oh, and some might wonder why I just did not print a pocket for a standard nut, well, over time I felt that the nut could become loose. That loose nut could fall into my engine when removing them defeating the very reason I made these. The brass insets are melted into the PLA.

...now THAT is useful information

I sense a purchase in my future.....

D.

I print almost exclusively in ASA since I'm more concerned with heat and UV resistance than surface finish.

My latest project worked great this last weekend. Good vent flow when open and nothing when closed:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1710252586.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1710252586.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1710252586.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1710252586.jpg

That's some fantastic design work David! What modeling software are you using? I use Fusion360 currently but have considered switching to Solidworks. If they ever stop approving my student version. of Fusion I would likely switch.

You can just switch to the F360 hobbyist version, its still free

This is so slick!
Am I interpreting the pictures correctly? Looks like heat goes to defrost and fresh air goes to the floor?
Also, what is the likelihood you'd share the file for this?

I like it a lot....and have been thinking of making some version like that, so whatever you feel comfortable sharing would be appreciated.

My intention is to find a way to combine the AC, outside air and heat flows into a single, smaller box with a real fan that actually can move some air versus the childbreath airflow the stock box has (even with my Honda fan motor in it, it still sucks.

I am getting better with ABS, biggest learning has been to not put long horizontal strands next to thin edges without something like mouse ears, higher bed temperature to keep things stuck to the bed until the whole structure is finished.

All good...love the work!

D.

I use Inventor, I also have access to Solidworks but I don't use it enough to be proficient. Both are really too expensive for hobby use.

The 3 ducts go to the center and side vents. I have the 2 heater ducts going to my windshield vents. The drain at the bottom is for rain water and is 1/2" tubing out the smuggler's box.

I hate to give files away that I have so much time in of course I'm not good at marketing either so I might as well.

I fully understand your point.....these things do take a lot of work, certainly from my point of view if it were for sale on one of the platforms I see no issue with paying for it.....not sure what the going rate would be....

D.