Link to P221 and P222 tools files

https://www.thingiverse.com/floyddesign/designs

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1705010045.jpg

Rothaus, can you provide the file for your awesome block off plates for the intake?
Tom, these are awesome, will be printed tonight, appreciate you sharing.

Daniel

I wanted to share my experience with 3D printing over the last 2 weeks with the folks who are hesitant or unsure. I had experience with 3D printers at my business for the last 10 years but its always been a great tool to have but somewhat complicated to use just every once in a while. A good friend who also works with me has though always been into the 3D printing world. This past Christmas i thought it would be a great present for my kids (7 and 9) and of course me, I ended up buying a Ender 3 V3 and it has been nothing but easy. The auto leveling, that is now available for cheap printers like this one (160 dollars at microcenter). I promise with little to no experience but some common sense you can print many of these prints in 1h or less. These printers have become much better and easier to use. The auto leveling is great as you don't have to measure and manually adjust.
Daniel

Nice work Tom!

Those are nice looking designs Tom. Thanks for sharing. You must have 3D printer with a large print bed! I don't think I could get the larger rod holder to fit on my Ultimaker 2.

Thanks, I have an Ender 5 Plus 350mm x 350mm bed.

Further to Daniel's comments

For anybody thinking about buying a 3D printer but maybe think it would have limited use if you don’t have CAD skills. Thingiverse is not the only site for downloading part files,
https://www.myminifactory.com
https://cults3d.com/
https://www.printables.com/

Molly has more rolls of color PLA than I have, for making her many plant pots, mostly printed from downloaded files.

We have printed parts of some sort in every room of the house now. Loads of fun project besides Porsche parts, if you have cad skills, Googie Nixie clock, molds for cement bullet and peanut planters, scale model of a Clairtone Project G using Echo Dot speakers, etc.
And a lot of vacuum adapters, trim rings around the furnace ducts, floor drains, LED ceiling light junction cover, printed boxes for organizing stuff, parts, hareware.

The point is you will be surprised at how much you will use it. If you have kids in the house, great teaching tool.

Good site for general information covering the hobby level is, https://all3dp.com/

The boss and the kids will approve of this non Porsche tool purchase.

If Rothaus doesn't send his file for the block off plates I have my own version somewhere I can find/send

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

Here is the link:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BFBHGz974CEytV9ElgFwKjhjuyIwhhL6/view

Awesome Thanks

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1705780204.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1705780204.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1705780204.JPG

On these cold winter nights when you are bored..
The new 2nd. gen Holley Sniper EFI is out now and even a single carb is way cheaper than triple Webers.
I welded a 2bbl carb base to an aluminum plate and cut the top off of a stock air box to make this set up.

I am just getting into 3D printing for stuff for my Carrera restomod.

I have been playing with Fusion 360 and going through its learning curve, but the first project that I want to complete is a replacement fan mount for the front ventilation blower.

The design ought to be a drop in replacement for that horrible little Bosch fan motor Porsche used back then, replacing it with a fan motor from an early 2000's Honda Civic - its bigger, quieter, better build and about 10 euros from an auto wrecker.

I have a Bambu printer on order, will let you all know how well this works (I will print in ABS which is the original material for that fan housing)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1705782715.jpg

D.

Here is a cross section...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1705783185.jpg

D.

Working on a guide/bushing for my MCS install on the 964. They keep the hose from rubbing lock to lock from full extension all the way to bump.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1705844698.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1705844754.jpg

Final parts to be done in PA.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1705845052.jpg

964 manual steering rack conversion cover:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1705846112.jpg

RMS seal tool

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1705846291.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1705846303.jpg

Bambu X1C
 

The quality of the Bambu Carbon X1 has been shocking compared to a printer I bought 8 years ago. The auto bed leveling, extrusion testing, spaghetti detection, lidar first layer scanning, notifications, remote monitoring camera -- all very, very good. BambuStudio slicer is flexible, reliable and extremely well thought out. The automatic filament feeder (AMS) is a must have -- so far keeping the humidity at 15%, can automatically go to another spool if one runs out, etc.

Fusion 360 is worth using for the parametric modeling alone, and the quality. Crashes a lot on the Mac though. Absurdly good for running on a home computer.

Made a pump to mount a high pressure Bosch Carrera pump to the longhood front crossmember in the tight space created by the 85L SC tank.

Experimenting with different materials; the quality and strength of the high temp Nylon carbon fiber (PAHT-CF) is surprisingly good. The PETG-CF does not print quite as well.

Mostly prototyping stuff at the moment to learn Fusion360 and the printer/materials limitations and tricks.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1705850022.png

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1705850022.png

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1705850022.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1705850022.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1705850022.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1705850022.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1705850022.jpg

Second on the Bambu X1 Carbon with AMS. Stellar machine.

I primarily use shapr3D on my iPad Pro- it’s not as powerful as fusion360 but it’s the most intuitive and swiftest 3D modeling software I’ve ever used.

I did not order the AMS, thinking that pretty well everything I will print will be monochrome and black.

Is it really essential? I am sure I could still get it added to my order....thoughts?

D

I use my 3D printer both for my work and for the car and the requirements are pretty different so having multiple spools of material at the ready is really critical because it means I can switch back-and-forth effortlessly. It also means that if I need to print something that requires support, I can do so, with a cheaper support filament rather than the more expensive primary filament. Yes, it takes more time but if it’s more cost-effective that matters.

I don’t think that you will find yourself missing the AMS right off the bat, but if you do, you can always add it on later

Prototype in PLA, but for final parts the material is more expensive and probably PET, Nylon, CF embeded, or another heat and chemical resistant filament. Printing all the time in high temp Nylon or embedded CF is going to be irritating and slower (bed heating is longer, things with CF do have more failures, etc). Also, the finishes vary a lot from material to material -- you want smooth, tough, heat resistant, 2 of those 3? You are likely going to be using more than 1 type of filament. YMMV.

The AMS seems to be failry airtight, and wet filaments are no good. The way it handles loading, unloading filaments, etc. is so hassle free I would def recommend it.

Just get it. My 2 cents.

I use Onshape. It’s free unless you want to keep your designs private and all the work is done on their server so you can move from device to device and work on the same file. I started with it because I could not afford a capable computer. Excellent for collaboration as well- no files to send and or update and see the other users changes in real time.

Intake that transitions from the rectilinear AFM to a round filter in Onshape:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1705893501.png

Someone make simple manifolds to use with the stock runners for different carbs set ups. Lots of Webers types we are not using and the triple 40 IDA's are old.

That should be simple CAD to do. My concern would be the temperature at the head compromising the materials that most of us use to print. Has anyone measured the temperature mag or aluminum manifolds get to after a drive?

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

OK, I went ahead and added the AMS - don't tell the wife! - the logic that made sense to me is to be able to use cheaper filament to deal with the supports - I looked at some pricing for the "good stuff" versus the regular el cheapo PLA and it does not take much support printing to make a dent in the price of the AMS.

According to the nice people at Bambu Labs, should be hear within a week....

I can hardly wait to see if my designs actually work, man o man, could I have used this 3D printing stuff to great benefit over the years. The whole idea of being able to custom design and print everything from the silly plastic bits that cost a fortune, to be able to customize them to making the one-time tools such as the seal installers.

Fantastic....

D.

PS - I am not a big poster on this forum....long story, but a very bad experience of someone close to me...but I will post the results of the complete story of the fan motor changeover in a separate thread.

Manifold
 

I plan on printing a manifold in CF nylon for the weber carb. As soon as I get a new mother board and firmware in my printer, talking to each other nicely. I don't have the numbers in front of me right now, but the heat tolerance is close and should work. I will be using phenolic spacers as insurance to start with. After getting good temp numbers off the head and at the manifold, I may eliminate the phenolic spacers later.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1705977642.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1705977642.jpg

See my thread for more details, https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/744845-pendulum-outlaw-build-adventures-misadventures-19.html

Addnorth has a material good to 180c (364f) CF reinforced PC. Jonte over on Rennlist is using it for some I’m exhaust related parts I believe on his 964 project.


https://addnorth.com/product/PC%20Blend%20HT%20LCF/PC%20Blend%20HT%20LCF%20-%201.75mm%20-%20500g%20-%20Black

Interested in seeing how the manifold works for you, Tom Elder. The CF nylon I have used is amazing, but the surface I get is not totally smooth. Maybe that wouldn't matter in this application -- I have no idea what it would do to the mixture/flow.

I would be tempted to try nylon without CF for a smoother bore. I have some on order this week to test out.

I would worry about distortion/embrittlement with heat cycles with any of these non-metallic materials in this application, but glad someone is trying.

Have you tried vapor honing the surface? I believe with nylon you can simply place the object in a container above a pool of acetone, and let the vapors smooth out the surface.

Pete, thanks! for the post, I bought a roll of Carbon X PA12 CF which has a Heat Deflection of 150C HDT @ 0.45MPa (137c HDT @ 1.8MPa) The material you suggested PC HT LCF states “withstands temps up to 185c.” Which is a very nice step up in performance. Wish they qualify their statement with the test method. Also wish they had a stiffness value, long fibers are good for stiffness. It sounds good but I would like to see proper engineering data set. Hard to compare materials when you don’t know the test methods.

Torch, I have not printed CF PA at home yet, but for a short period of time, I had access to Desktop Metal FDM machine. The parts produce from that machine had a very nice surface finish. Which I think is acceptable for an intake manifold. Intake ports do not need to have a mirror finish, a bit of roughness is good so the fuel mist does not stick to the walls. Porting metal bores about 180 grit is supposed to be good. Before modifying my printer, it was good to print at 260c, just enough to print on the low end of nylon recommended print temp. From what I have read, printing PA CF on the high end of the recommended temp produces a stronger and smoother part. Which why I elected to attempt to modify my printer. Will post when I get there.

The Bambu can go up to 300F. The PA-CF is really strong.

Here is PA-CF next to PLA. This is just stock settings, I haven't done anything to optimize the finish. The finish of the PA-CF is pretty darn smooth, just a little pebbly up close, not as smooth as PLA, but due to the higher temp, curves come out nice, layers are really bonded and invisible.

Keep us updated. If you want to send me a file, I can try printing maybe a single port section just to see how it goes.

The photos make the Nylon look much worse than it is in person -- just a lot of reflection on the pebbling.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1706053400.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1706053400.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1706053400.jpg

You guys with 3D printers are making me jealous. I may have to invest in another expensive/time suck hobby!

Ok, took delivery of the Bambu with AMS today.

Easy to set up, did two test prints....very nice.

Fan mount is printing in PLA as we speak as a test, it's really very automatic and does most of the hard work by itself. I set auto-orient, clicked to add supports when in warned me that I was printing in mid air.....and off it went.

Even takes a time lapse for you with its little internal camera just for fun.

Had to tell someone, this printer is the cat's ass.....very nice....

D.

I know, every time I see this thread I get so jealous, but I just don't have the time to play with a new hobby. I need to buy a printer for a friend of mine who's single and has no kids and make suggestions about what he can make. :D

Made some intake pipes for my 964 intake out of PAHT-CF. Wanted to test the strength. Put a 3.25" (82mm) diameter pipe with 3mm walls into my vice and cranked the daylights out of it. Compressed into an oval 1/2 the diameter without a crack, and when I took it out it rebounded close to the original shape with barely a mark on it.

Then I cranked it until it broke. At about 1.5" (40mm), it finally broke.

Amazing stuff.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1706281668.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1706281668.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1706281668.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1706281668.jpg

Ok, print finished...got delayed as it ran out of PLA in the middle of the night and I have to learn how to tell the printer to use another roll that is already in the AMS.

Quite happy with the result, actual print time around 8 hours, finish is excellent.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1706290709.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1706290754.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1706290754.jpg

Doing the checks to make sure it all fits, housing looks perfect as does electrical blade holder.

For sure two mistakes.

1. I only gave 0.1 mm clearance for the motor to slid in....too tight. Probably should give it 0.5 mm as right now I'd need a hammer to pound it in...not good.

2. Two of the three support arms are not fastened to the motor holder. I looked closely at the Fusion drawings and sure enough, there is a tiny space between the arms and the housing. The Combine feature did not actually make it into a single piece, not sure why.

Next steps are to finish the checks, make adjustments to Fusion and then reprint. This one costs me $6.45 according to the Bambu and took almost 8 hours.

Will post again when v2 comes out....

D.

Torch, thanks for the offer to print one of my manifold flanges. I have the display, display firmware, mother board and main firmware all talking to each now and can print lower temp materials again. Installed a new temp thermistor yesterday but need to update the firmware again and then I will be able to print CF Nylon. Just waiting for Amazon to deliver a micro SD card extension cable. Small mistake on my part, forgot to cut a new SD card slot in the case before reassembling the printer.

I like your test, very encouraging, to see. Surface finish looks good. What brand of filament are you using.

When printing PLA for prototyping, some of the cheaper brands are not worth the savings. I always find the quality brands just flow nice, layer adhesion is better.

Keep us updated on your progress and discoveries, when printing with these better materials.

Cloggie, very jealous of all the Bambu Labs printers showing up here. Congrats, let’s see parts! Ok, that was fast, just typing and you posted pictures!

To all posting here, I really ought to respond to all of you as I scour every post y'all make and learning every time. As a newbie, just seeing what you more experienced folks are doing is totally helpful

Well, doing the fit checks, I discovered for the four millionth time in my life I am an idiot.

I reversed a measurement for the fan to motor distance, so the motor is sticking about 40 mm too far out, it needs to go inwards by a measurement I built in fusion as outwards.

Sigh, but that is why we love rapid prototyping...right.

So I am remeasuring, redrawing and will reprint as soon as I can...and post of course.

Lesson for me is to make a hand sketch, put the dimensions on it and then get busy with Fusion. I just wrote down the dimensions with a descriptor and lo and behold, what ought to have been -20 mm or so, I made +20mm.

Live and learn, but great fun!

D.

because "there is a tiny space between the arms and the housing."

Sorry, I could not resist :)


One thing to check when you have round parts combined with support arms is to make sure the arms go fully into the round body. Often the flat face of the support army only touches the round face at the very centerline of the support arm. This often happens when you use sweep. And can happen when you sketch to the round object and then extrude to that edge. The quick fix is to offset face the end of the support deeper into the round object.

Tom,
I am using the Bambu filaments so far. Only had the printer for a week or so, so have stayed on the Bambu farm to get going. I have tried PETG-CF, and it was not as nice looking / more CF stranding than the stuff in my pictures, which is the PAHT-CF from Bambu.

Cloggie:

I find it's pretty easy to throw the whole stl into Bambu, then using the split function isolate the parts I am working on fitting. For example, the pipe bung is a bit complicated in mine as it's cutting a vertical threaded NPT hole in an angled pipe. Rather than print the whole pipe, I sliced along the Z and Y axes with some tilt to get rid of needing any support to print the bung only: then I check check the fit, see how the support removes, test fit the sensor, etc.

Saves a lot of time and filament to check individual sections of the overall model for fitment. I have also found that draft or extra draft modes still make impressively accurate parts a little faster.

Yes, that is a method I unfortunately learned the hard way....just bury the connecting part into the other and when you extrude, it is joined.

I think Fusion has some sort of "fix" option, but I am not smart enough to make that work....not yet, maybe not ever.

Oh yeah, I am using only Bambu stuff right now, when I feel like I have mastered this 3d printing thing, I will explore more....meantime, I will stay in the walled Bambu garden

Thanks!

D.