....yes, I agree and would not trust any screw thread in the plastic....it is the way to go and not terribly hard to model in F360....

So far, only fasteners I have with my projects are through holes where a bolt goes through the plastic into a metal captive nut or threads.

Needless to say, good, wide flat washers are a must.

Thanks!

D.

Nice thread! at a first glance I thought that was a heater control box delete plug! Someone should make one, should be pretty easy to make and print.

PSA - Bambu Lab has an active recall on the A1:

https://blog.bambulab.com/a1-recall-update/

Interesting....thankfully I have an X1, so far no recalls (or problems in my case)....

D.

Ok, a question and an update.

Question is, I am doing a bigger project with a complete centre console insert and want to do some quick and dirty PLA prints to just figure out if everything fits.

Did a bunch of searches on the web, could not seem to nail down how exactly I can reduce filament/time while keeping things dimensionally good and suitable for a functional check.

Any insight from anyone?

In terms of the new project, here it is:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1707680619.jpg

I have a centre console from Better Bodies and have modified it to make it more durable.

The console will hold the door lock/alarm switch, a 7 light custom display showing status of park brake, WW fluid, brake system, oil cooler fan + hazard switch and rear defroster switch

It will also hold the 3 ventilation controls which will control auto heat, AC temp, AC fan, plus a slot for my Porsche Classic radio which has a little box for USB and CarPlay and of course the required mouse fur lined cubby.

Its the maximum size for my printer 256 mm, so its a lot of filament, final version will be done in either ABS, ASA or CF...

D.

DIY 3D Printing Tools and Parts Thread
 

Change the settings to extra draft, make the layers thicker and then adjust the amount of infill between the walls.

Also, consider printing it in pieces and then gluing it together. That may actually be stronger than a single print.

No magic bullet, big prints take a long time.

I'd also suggest you try a larger nozzle size. going from 0.4 to 0.6 and thicker layers can make a big impact on print time

Its pretty simple to change the layer heights and nozzle size in the slicer to see impact on print times.

Also you can print fewer perimeters. The dimensions of the outside edges will be the same, but the parts will not be as strong.

But it doesn't really look like it will take long to print that part. Long in 3D printing terms is more than 24 hrs. :)

"Long in 3D printing terms is more than 24 hrs. :)"

!!

D.

Reduce filament: On my printer / software combo (Ultimaker 2 / Cura) I have the ability to define the infill percentage. Reducing the amount of infill will reduce the filament and time to print. I often drop it to 18% when prototyping. I may go 100% on final print for strength.

Functional check: Depending on the orientation of what you're checking fitment of, you can abort the print once the base layer has sufficiently built up (~1mm). Then go put that in place and see if it's doing what you need. You've wasted that 1mm, but better than the time and filament of the whole model only to find out it wasn't going to fit anyway.

I also modify the file to eliminate all the stuff that is not necessary for thee test fit. Not sure if this applies to your case but test fitting this:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1707767350.png


I drew this:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1707767263.jpg

Can you post the file for that?

Here ya go:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6483628

Has anyone designed a VR crank sensor mount already?
I mean like the one that GoingSuperFast sold when they were still in business?

I really like 3d printing but I can't design myself. So this got me wondering if it's out there already?

DIY 3D Printing Tools and Parts Thread
 

I started to but lost steam as other things popped up on my plate.

I have a partial scan of that part of the engine that I can send you if you want to model something up.

Also, going super fast is still in business- I was emailing him not too long ago. He’s in Taiwain and a bit slow but still around.

I have one of these on my car. Next time I'm in Chicago, I'll swing by Julian's and let him scan it so a full 3D model can be made.
JB, we have to remember to do this. :D

Hehe, look what I just found from GoingSuperFast…

I’ll model it up once I get my scanner back (I loaned it out).

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...2ef098f64e.jpg

Awesome!

Well, after untold hours learning Fusion and getting it to do what I want, here is the final version of the centre console system I have been building for way too long.

Guts of it are the auto heat system, 3D printing matching holders for the AC temp and AC fan controls along with the inlet air for the little fan that senses interior temperature.

I had to disassemble the whole auto heat system and relocate the servo to behind this console, it connects to the original wires to the heater boxes via a custom Bowden cable

Build also includes a place for the PCCM box that allows you to connect your phone, a cubby hole to hold the phone and whatever else the wife wants to put there, a 7 light display with all the warning lights for the brake system (fluid low, circuit pressure mismatch and park brake), plus windshield washer fluid low, oil cooler fan indicator and check engine light from the Motec.

...that and the hazard, rear window defogger, electric antenna lift switch and the alarm system switch...well, it took a lot longer than I thought.

I printed in ABS and was distressed that the print quality varied with some warpage taking place on my previous "final" print. I added some mouse ears to hold it down a bit better, plus did a little redesign to eliminate the long runs on the thin bottom strip that was separating from the bed and warping.

Total parts count was 4 including the cubby and bottom plate currently in PLA with the ABS versions about to be printed.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1709410684.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1709410705.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1709410771.jpg

Still lots to do, designing and printing the gubbins that align the rotary AC switches to the correct orientation and provide the "click", printing new labels that read right on the backlit switches and of course the knee pad centre piece that I am trying to design and print right now.

Then its cover the green part in the proper vinyl and putting it all together.

Love the Bambu, it's been very good and the AMS is definitely a must have, makes life so easy.

Bambu studio is a bit of a bear, but it's OK....Fusion is certainly not for the faint of heart, but I am getting there.

Take care all!

D.

Wow, that's quite a project. Looks great.

Cheers
Engelbert

For those with Bambu spools and AMS:

I printed 2 of these (the outer 2, since I already have the hygrometer setup in the middle):
https://www.printables.com/model/423765-silica-dry-box-for-bambulab-ams-hydra

and a bunch of these that fit inside the bambu spools:
https://www.printables.com/model/536741-bambu-lab-re-usable-spool-desiccant-container

Both are high quality fits and designs.

-- they hold loose, reusable desiccant.

Brought my humidity to 10% and you can bake or microwave the loose desiccant to reuse it. It also changes color to orange when it become saturated so you know when to change -- same as I use in my air system.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013L31PQ0?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1