That's the one that won't work for my car, right?
I forgot all about changing this design to work for my jalopy.

On the subject.... I started prototyping this funnel the other day on my new (cheap) Ender 3 v3 SE. My 81 SC Turbo the hood hinge is in the way of most funnels so I'm working on a work around. I printed this in PLA and I should try at least PTEG.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1744040228.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1744040254.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1744040275.jpg

Throw the STL on Cults. That way people can buy the STL and print their own.

No way to know for sure other than to post a price and ask people. Since you’ve already invested in the design for yourself, printing for others is just a material and admin game.

Don’t know where you’re based but if you’re in Europe at least there’s no tariffs for us Europeans. ;)

Has anybody made a 3d model or STL of a 964/993 intake manifold base modified for 2 bolt heads?

Adapting this

https://i.imgur.com/52Mlaa7.jpeg

but with the footprint of this

https://i.imgur.com/5mnWVuu.jpeg

I haven't seen a 3D model but there are a few companies that make these adapters in aluminum, which I think is the right material for this application. Even with modern filament like PPA-CF I'd be worried about longevity due to close (with a phenolic spaccer in between) contact with the head, vibrations, etc.

Adapt is a bit cheaper than Islandworks

https://adaptmotorsport.com/collections/current-products/products/porche-964-intake-manifold-adapter

https://adaptmotorsport.com/cdn/shop...g?v=1723813892

I only the GT3 intake version but I'm pretty sure they have one for the 964 as well since the owner Jonas has a 2.7 or 3L engine with 964 intake.

https://islandworks.se/products/billet-intake-runners-for-porsche-g-model-to-gt3

For what it's worth, I tried making a longhood heater duct. After a lot of prototypes, I got it to fit nicely.

I made it out of ABS and it just did not work. The proximity to the cylinder head and heat cycles warped it, and made it soft enough while driving that the bolts became lose and backed out. I did not try PAHT, which might have faired better, but got tired of the effort.

I also made a oil filler after spilling oil all over using my old funnel. Having it secured to the filler pipe is so much better.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1746103726.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1746103726.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1746103726.jpg

I’ve played around with a lot of filaments trying to find heat tolerant ones and what I’ve found is that PA6GF or CF, PAHT-CF or PET-CF are all great.

Bambu has a wonder filament PPA-CF that is stable up to 227 Celsius and has properties that rival and sometimes exceed aluminum. But it’s $150 a kilo!

https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/ppa-cf


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There are now a few different brands for PPA-CF, all very similar properties, probably many produced by the same suppliers anyway.

Siraya Tech even has a "core" version, where the carbon particles are wrapped inside an outer layer of PPA only, which theoretically gives it better layer adhesion. Also better price at "only" $88 per kilo.

MyTechFun on Youtube has some good comparison videos, I think all 5+ different PPA-CFs he tested hold up to 220°C heat and should be strong enough for most applications like heater ducts.

Yea, I would buy a reasonable priced one that works for my 85 911. And if it could be disassembled to fit in the trunk easily that would be even better. I take long road trips, and I have to add oil on the road after 1,2000 miles.

Please PM me with a price.

I printed up some plugs to block off the heater duct holes in the engine tin (Excuse my crude novice design skills) using the Bambu PAHT-CF and I was happy with how they turned out. While we haven't hit summer temps in the northeast yet, they've held up over the last few weeks of driving with a few days at 83*F ambient temps.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1746586781.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1746586781.jpg

Working on a funnel for my Turbo SC. This second prototype is getting close just need to increase wall thickness in maybe PTEG next time. Used TPU for the connection to the filler neck and I like the feel of that.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1746874025.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1746874025.jpg

Can i send anyone Fusion360 & STL files to post ?
 

Wanted to share files , Fusion360 & STL files, wanted to share them amongst the forum . who can i send to ?

Most members who want to share their .stl file just post it here, or on one of the 3d printing websites like:https://www.3dnatives.com/en/thingiverse-platform-190220204/

These guys are into all the expensive exotic filaments and have been printing parts for NASA. See their selection: https://visionminer.com/collections/filament

Thanks, will post and see what happens, i hate joining group, sites and fostering spam...
Love the new fillaments that just BambuLab are coming out with, let alone NASA
Great conversations ...

Shame i can't post images easily, sorry don't have amoth amounts of time ..
three posted stl's on https://makerworld.com/

Ping me for fusion files, happy to share, will post the remaining projects later today

Hi all, just getting things going.

Here is my rendition of the air duct which feeds engine air from the fan to the crosspipe of the '89 Carrera heating system (the cross pipe feeds air to the air exchangers).

There is no fan in this as I put upgraded footwell fans (another thread I added to somwhere...forget where) with significantly stronger motors than the original Bosch pieces of junk.

I also rewired the autoheat fan control system so at low heat settings it is just the air from the engine fan (through this duct) and the footwell fans kick in only above level 3 on the autoheat control knob - with the standard 3 speeds, highest kicking in only at level 8, 9 and 10. The autoheat and AC control knobs were all standardized to use the autoheat knobs and relocated to my custom 3D printed console shown elsewhere on this thread.

This part is way too fun, lots of curves, had to master lofting in Fusion 360....several time I took the Lord's name in vain...sigh.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1747528039.jpg

D.

...oops, forgot a pic of the other side of this monstrosity


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1747529423.jpg

Looks good

And yeah, lofting in fusion is like playing the lottery, never know if it will work or not. Hell sometimes it says it works, hit accept and then it fails.

Nice work. A lot of ppl, including myself have been asking for one of these for the SC's, the fit on the part sold by pp is horrible. would be very similar but need a indent where distributor is ;)

Is that airbox cover print file available somewhere?

Trust me, it was an absolute pain. I had one situation where the loft would not work, tried at least 5 times.

Then I put the guide rail plane at a slight angle and voila - no problem.

Also the Shell command has its limitations, when you hollow out a lofted solid and join it to conventional parts - even though they are joined - F360 decides you can't fillet the combined edges.

Makes no sense...but ah well.

By the way, Grok AI is far, far, far more useful for learning stuff - just pose your question in plain English and you get a great document how to do it with huge detail

D.

That would be relatively easy, either by just fitting a cylindrical hole in the area needed and then curving over the edges.

Or one could just redo the whole lofts so that it narrows/curves past the distributor in an appropriate way.

Or make a removable section that was more tightly fit to the distributor...

Sigh, one of the problems with now being able to do this, you basically can fiddle endlessly to get what you want...

I am actually thinking of fitting a flapper valve to shut off air when there is no call for heat....yet another mod to this monstrosity which is already amazingly complex.

D.

Heater Duct
 

Would you consider actually selling these once you have it optimized? I’ve spent a few hours thinking about how to make something similar for my 86 Carrera 3.2 from fiberglass but yours looks absolutely amazing! I haven’t jumped into the 3D printing world yet so I don’t have this skill set but I’d be willing to purchase this as a finished part - and probably many other things that you guys have developed!

Yes, probably, just have to figure out some things as I am not in the USA (...yet - stay tuned).

The final version is just printing, I will show it mounted and we can go from there.

D.

Well, here is the final version on the engine.

I decided not to try to print the elbows which take it to the actual crosspipe along with the section pictured as a single piece, at least until I have the engine fully assembled and I can make sure everything is clocked properly.

There will, of course, be a TPU gasket which interfaces between the ABS duct and the stainless steel crosspipe where it goes through the engine tin.

I'll probably just glue the final elbows and spacers in place, easy enough to do by printing up a small lip so they stay on axis and I will use good ABS glue which is pretty strong stuff.

It was far, far, far more work than I expected and as I told two lady friends of mine, it has more curves than both of them put together!

All done though....now just try and make my custom engine tin work...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1748727541.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1748727541.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1748727541.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1748727541.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1748727541.jpg

D.

That looks really sharp! You might want to use PA6-GF or CF or PAHT-CF as the deflection point of ABS is about 89C.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Fair consideration and if it melts down....I can just print another in a better material.

My line of reasoning for using ABS was:

1. The original factory part was ABS
2. It has cool fan blown air continuously blowing around it
3. Its touch points with the engine block is only the small tab on the bottom and the fact that it rests on the block only on a thin edge....so not much room for heat transfer.

Definitely we shall see.....

D.

As I noted before with my heat duct -- check the bolts frequently. The heat causes the ABS to soften and warp, then the bolts back out.

What density did you print yours at?

I have found that more wall loops (Bambu default is 2) the better the part is.
I used 5 on this part which means the thinner sections are almost solid ABS.

I also made the inner fill 75% up from the default 15% which also makes it much denser.

Not sure if my approach will help, but I definitely will keep a good eye on it until I know one way or the other..

D.

Fairly sure I went with strength, 4mm thickness, probably 2 loops. Given the thickness, probably had little if any infill. The heat from the head is quite significant right there. Let us know how it holds up.

I also made a full right side duct, not just the insert part. That actually touches the head and I didn't even try to run it given that the insert (that goes inside the metal) warped. Maybe PAHT would have worked.

for reference:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1748870204.png

I made up some little brackets to mount the 993 brake ducts to the SC control arms. I made the clips through Xometry, SLS in Nylon 12. They needed some heating to open the brackets up so they'd fit over the arm, but they have a really good hold on the arm and I've run these things up past 120mph on track with no issues. I'm happy that the little hex-head recess actually held the M6 bolt head enough to torque it up.

I had some old rubber clamps before this that let the ducts flop around and get rubbed by the tires, this is much better.

Lost the photo of the front clip, this is the rear which has an offset to push the duct out towards the hub. The front doesn't have an offset.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1748872296.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1748872296.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1748872296.jpg

Made this today. Its a tool for adjusting camber using your phone. Works for both front and rear.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1749202849.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1749202849.jpg

Really nice!!!
something all the track guys should have

Oil funnel
 

Here's a link to my 3D printed oil funnel design: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/o7to9qklx5vzdl7ddp0xp/Oil-funnel.3mf?rlkey=8y3uxgafmmy5kynkzlhmliiz2&dl=0

Here's a link to the end caps that prevent leaks:https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/l9h6mcxn0aqiozo1cy5eg/FunnelCaps.3mf?rlkey=xry9v269vsz8bgwlwqvkk0pmy&dl= 0

Print the funnel in PLA/your favorite material and the end caps in TPU. If you print them in a rigid material they might not come off as the tolerances are designed for TPU. This fits cars with ITBs/carbs. Probably other cars but I didn't test.

These past 16 pages have been awesome. Had a printer a few years ago during Covid. Ended up making a ton of mask extenders for the local hospitals. Then it sat and we sold it. Just got another one, and really need to find a file for my sun visor on my 1988 930. Any ideas where to source one??

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1754426364.jpg

I would download Fusion360 and hit up YouTube for some tutorials to use it. This is what I use for my 3d design. I have made lots of custom 3d parts using this method. You will be able to just replicate it yourself and print it. I would suggest using ASA at a minimum for the material. You will need a decent set of calipers to measure up the OE part.

My son said he is using Fusion for some school work, so maybe I have a resource under my roof afterall! :) Thanks for the info!

I'm a big fan of Fusion 360. Six months in and I can design and print most anything on my Ender 3 v3 se. (with a few upgrades). Fusion is free for the hobby version, you should check it out.