New Problem! My Cylinder Head Studs are 12 MM TOO LONG!

[Vincent Hill]

I bought a set of Canyon Cylinder Head Studs for my 1982 Porsche 911 Sc. Part Number “S 93002”. After installing them and putting on the Cylinders, Everything Looked “OK”! Then I installed the Heads and using the “Allen Head” Nuts, they were not Deep enough to use with “1” washer. Finally after “4” Washers (12 MM Thick) it all worked OK.

I Know I could use Nuts, but with a 10 mm Stud, the Nuts I have are 17 mm and the Sockets I have were not thin enough to use. Plus, it is Sooo Much Easier to use an Allen Socket to Put the Nut on the Stud.

So what do you Guys do? Does someone make a Long Allen Head Nut I can use?

[boyt911sc]

Vincent,

What is the installed height of the cylinder head studs? 135~137 mm? Are you now putting the cylinders heads and CE rings together? If you have not torqued the cylinder heads yet, you could still remove the studs and re-adjust the installed height.

Wait, you said it is 12 mm too long? That’s about 1/2” longer! Extra washers or extra long barrel nuts are your options. Unless you want to install the correct length cylinder head studs. Keep us posted.

Tony

[Dpmulvan]

Christy Canyon headstud !!

[john walker's workshop]

I bet you installed the short threaded end into the case....

[timmy2]

Originally Posted by john walker's workshop

I bet you installed the short threaded end into the case....

My first thought as well.

[Vincent Hill]

Originally Posted by john walker's workshop

I bet you installed the short threaded end into the case....

DAMMM!! Yep!! Not too late, I will remove and turn them around! WOW! Plus, I only used a Few Drop Of Blue Loctite. So I will Remove and Clean the Threads And Put the “Correct” end in!! Now I do feel Stupid. All I had to do was look at how the other studs were. Thank you. AGAIN.

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by Vincent Hill

DAMMM!! Yep!! Not too late, I will remove and turn them around! WOW! Plus, I only used a Few Drop Of Blue Loctite. So I will Remove and Clean the Threads And Put the “Correct” end in!! Now I do feel Stupid. All I had to do was look at how the other studs were. Thank you. AGAIN.

Vincent,

Use the Red Loctite thread lock and measure the installed cylinder head stud heights. Shoot for 135 mm installed height measurement and a variance of +/-1 mm is OK.

Tony

[Vincent Hill]

Originally Posted by boyt911sc

Vincent,

Use the Red Loctite thread lock and measure the installed cylinder head stud heights. Shoot for 135 mm installed height measurement and a variance of +/-1 mm is OK.

Tony

OK. I was Temporarily Putting the Top End Together to Check the Exhaust System. I posted on my other Thread that I need to redo “1” Stud. (One of the 2 I did Before I had the Fixture made.) Everything is Perfect now and paying ANY attention, I would have Realized that the “Long” end Needed to be in the Weaker “Aluminum” Case Threads, vs the Much Stronger Steel Studs And Nuts. I will check the Install Height At 135 NM. After all of the Trouble I had getting them out, is there and “Absolute” Need for Red Over Blue?

Mr. Walker, please Note that if you are Ever in the Tampa, Clearwater or St Petersburg Area, you Money will not do you Any Good at Any Restaurant I Take you to. Thank you “Again”!

First Pic shows Correct End “In” the Case. second Pic shows the Nut Threads Right At the Stud Top.

[timmy2]

Red’s bond is stronger and is what the factory used.

[Vincent Hill]

Originally Posted by timmy2

Red’s bond is stronger and is what the factory used.

A Lot Stronger. My Question, Is it Necessary, Since the Blue does not allow anything to Turn “Unless” Pressure is applied. I am now Gun-shy on the Red. It gave me Hell.

[Superman]

Originally Posted by timmy2

Red’s bond is stronger and is what the factory used.

This is not a "do over" area where you can just fix it later.

[Bill Douglas]

John Walker

[Bigtoe32067]

Since head studs have always been an issue the stronger the bond the better. If you got them out before with the blue on them without heat then that shows you the need for red. Meaning they should be hard as hell to remove.
Tony

[Vincent Hill]

Originally Posted by Superman

This is not a "do over" area where you can just fix it later.

Thought I had posted this last night

Ok!! On Final Assembly, Red Loctite it is. At least I was “Lucky” enough to use Blue and needed to turn the Studs around.

I guess I will hear the same on the Exhaust Which Runs Hotter Yet, so I will not bring it up.

I do plan to use “518” between the Cam Tower and the Heads vs 564!

[chrisbalich]

Vincent, don't feel too bad. I installed all of my headstuds upside down the first time...and used red.

That took some serious time to rectify and reinforced I need to go slower and keep the book at hand.

As for red/blue, I reckon it's worth the ballache once every 40 years to know the headstuds aren't going anywhere. Any sooner than that and I'd reuse them. (dilivar studs not withstanding)

[MBEngineering]

HI Vincent

you may need to just check the piston's on the R/H side of the engine are the correct way up, as it looks like they are upside down



just checking before you bolt everything up

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by MBEngineering

HI Vincent

you may need to just check the piston's on the R/H side of the engine are the correct way up, as it looks like they are upside down



just checking before you bolt everything up

Vincent,

Please post a picture showing the top of the piston/s. It looks like you have the orientation wrong. From the picture you posted MBE noticed the problem and completely agree with his observation. The high spot of the piston should be at the left side facing the installed pistons. Spark plug goes in to the right side of the cylinder head dome. Keep us posted.

Tony

[rattlsnak]

Not trying to cause trouble here, but wondering what else is not put together correctly? Maybe worth your while to send it to someone who has experience with these engines, or someone who would let you watch/ learn from them..

[Superman]

Originally Posted by Vincent Hill

Thought I had posted this last night

I was not trying to be snarky. I will suggest however that you install the cylinder sheet metal before installing the heads and cam tower. I made this mistake myself. These are the small black sheet metal bits, some of which sit at the base of the cylinders, others go between the cylinders, etc. They help ensure the cooling air is directed properly through the cylinder and head cooling fins.

[Vincent Hill]

Originally Posted by boyt911sc

Vincent,

Use the Red Loctite thread lock and measure the installed cylinder head stud heights. Shoot for 135 mm installed height measurement and a variance of +/-1 mm is OK.

Tony

WOW!! Mr. Tony!! You Really do know!! At that exact height, with everything torqued, it gives you (Not 98%) 100% Tool Depth To Remove the Cylinder Head Nuts!

Soo glad for your Posting on that Tidbit.

Also on the Crazy side and for totally unusual Reasons, it seems like I have something that has become very Rare. My Exhaust System. It is not that it is made out of 316 Stainless, Or that it is New and one of the Last John Daniels Made, But it is a “Short Primary Tube” And May be worth a few $$$

I bought it so I could use V Band Clamps and have space for High Flow Cats to meet the Emissions Test in Washington DC. With the V Bands and the “4” Secondary Tubes, I could Easily Switch Out the Cats. Living in Florida where most places do not Have Emissions Testing, I do not need this System which delivers more Peak Power But Loses a little Bottom End. So I may Be Selling it And Using the Long Tube with 304 Stainless and Selling this one. 👍🏾👍🏾