1986 Coupe - Stereo Wiring Quick Question(s)/ Advice

[Hotshot]

That sucks. I’d restore it. Ya there a light to the DEF square on the floor. And yes, all three on the HVAC like you said.

Get a set of factory manuals. Lots online. 3.2 are easier than the sc diagrams but it’s all the same.

The black plastic light holders may me broken but the should fit in the recepticle the panel.

Seat back, feet back, and head under dash works. Taking the seat out is easier.

Also, look at your ignition ring and see what’s been added.

If you see a 4 pin connector up in there going no where and have manual pull heat, that’s the auto heat option.

[wrxnofx]

It’s amazing the sin that occurs over time in these cars. I had 2 different car alarms hacked in, an aftermarket stereo with amplifier under the passenger floor board, and a 10 disc cd changer in the frunk. I removed all of it, including motion sensors behind the front bumper and other wiring that went into the engine bay.
All you’re showing can be repaired with wiring diagrams and a bit of effort. Keep at it, you’ll get there and have a bit of fun in the process.

[PeteKz]

I installed a high-power digital media receiver in my 1973T a couple months ago (Sony DSX-M80). It required a high amp connection to the battery to power its internal amplifier. To get that, I ran a 12-gauge wire from the right-side battery (with inline fuse close to the battery) back along the inner fender to the back right corner of the frunk, to a wiring harness grommet in the firewall just ahead of the glove box. Then I fished the new wire through that grommet and to the back of the new radio. That's the easiest way to get a high-current always-on connection. The yellow with red stripe wire comes from the ignition switch, so use that for the ACC connection. Because I have a high-power radio, I also ran a separate 12-gauge brown wire from the radio to the strap that I screwed into the firewall. My radio has a light sensor so it auto dims when the light inside the cabin decreases.

[fallingat120mph]

Originally Posted by PeteKz

I installed a high-power digital media receiver in my 1973T a couple months ago (Sony DSX-M80). It required a high amp connection to the battery to power its internal amplifier. To get that, I ran a 12-gauge wire from the right-side battery (with inline fuse close to the battery) back along the inner fender to the back right corner of the frunk, to a wiring harness grommet in the firewall just ahead of the glove box. Then I fished the new wire through that grommet and to the back of the new radio. That's the easiest way to get a high-current always-on connection. The yellow with red stripe wire comes from the ignition switch, so use that for the ACC connection. Because I have a high-power radio, I also ran a separate 12-gauge brown wire from the radio to the strap that I screwed into the firewall. My radio has a light sensor so it auto dims when the light inside the cabin decreases.

Looks like your head unit is double in power so my set up will be basically the same (12gauge wire, ground, etc...):



My stereo specs:



My question would be (from earlier in the post) is I tested a wire, original from the car, and would that be safe to use for this head unit as the ACC wire?

Once the car is on, if I am correct, the power for the head unit comes from there and was thinking on upgrading that wire/connection also. The factory harness wires just seem so old and small.

Hope that is a valid concern...been a learning experience this week with the wiring here, pulling the alternator, new ignition switch and starter...so much relay research

Thanks for the patience...stereo is secondary BUT want to do it right.


Erik

[PeteKz]

No problem with using the yellow/red wire for powering the radio you have. You will notice that wire is heavier gauge than most, so it has plenty of "ampacity" for the radio.

Here's the reality: Although radios are rated at, say, 22W/ch RMS x 4 channels driven, the actual load is much lower. Because music is dynamic, the average power is maybe 10% of the "full" power. And even that is subjectively very loud. If it was delivering 22w x 4 (88W total) continuously, 88W divided by 14V =6.3 amps. That's well within the capacity of that yellow/red circuit. But, except for very short dynamic transients, the current will be below 1 amp. Bottom line: You will not stress that ACC circuit any more than the original radio.

The reason I installed a 12 gauge wire directly to the battery are, (1) the instructions recommended it, and (2) I wanted to be sure that my high power unit has maximum current available so that it will not "clip" the high-power transient peaks in the music. FYI, the highest power requirements are for bass frequencies, and I like powerful bass.

[Bitte ein Bit]

Originally Posted by PeteKz

No problem with using the yellow/red wire for powering the radio you have. You will notice that wire is heavier gauge than most, so it has plenty of "ampacity" for the radio.

Here's the reality: Although radios are rated at, say, 22W/ch RMS x 4 channels driven, the actual load is much lower. Because music is dynamic, the average power is maybe 10% of the "full" power. And even that is subjectively very loud. If it was delivering 22w x 4 (88W total) continuously, 88W divided by 14V =6.3 amps. That's well within the capacity of that yellow/red circuit. But, except for very short dynamic transients, the current will be below 1 amp. Bottom line: You will not stress that ACC circuit any more than the original radio.

The reason I installed a 12 gauge wire directly to the battery are, (1) the instructions recommended it, and (2) I wanted to be sure that my high power unit had maximum current available to that it would not "clip" the high-power transient peaks in the music. FYI, the highest power requirements are for bass frequencies, and I like powerful bass.

Great timing, just sat down to order more parts and saw your response. I have read exactly what you have stated. You guys have been a big help and hopefully this thread helps others. Sadly, electronics and wiring past just basic weren't part of growing up for me...but the more I dig in honestly it's really not too hard - and again, help from everyone with experience or knowledge is making things understandable. Articles and videos can only take you so far.


Thanks!
Erik

[fallingat120mph]

Dropped a few pounds of excess wire (previous owner) and the original factory stereo radio/speaker wire - in the end could not find an accessible ACC wire.

So, I am reading and thinking I can run an ACC wire from the head unit directly to the fuse panel.

Reading nightly and trying to understand from old threads and electronic articles I can't quite get the answer I am looking for. So, hopefully last question(s):

Can I run a fused wire (10/15/20a) from the head unit directly to my fuse panel and connect at lets say
(for my year 1986) the fuse at the "fresh air blower/cigarette lighter/rear window defroster"??? Head uit does have a 10a fuse built in...

I never use these accesories, other than the cigarette lighter for a plug in volt meter on trips.

My follow up would be does it matter when making a connection like this to use the top connector at the fuse panel or the bottom connection???


That's about it...again thanks to the community for insight and advice.


Regards,
Erik

[86 911 Targa]

Pm & email sent.

Gerry

[jrwilson]

Originally Posted by fallingat120mph

does it matter when making a connection like this to use the top connector at the fuse panel or the bottom connection???

I believe positive comes into the top of the fuse panel and goes through the fuses out the bottom, so if you want a fused connection you should attach at the bottom.

One thing that confused me was that some of the fuses don't have any connection at the top, but it turns out some of them are connected on the backside of the panel.

[fallingat120mph]

Originally Posted by jrwilson

I believe positive comes into the top of the fuse panel and goes through the fuses out the bottom, so if you want a fused connection you should attach at the bottom.

That has been the question I have had in my head. I built new lines (both fused) going to the head unit for both constant (attached at battery) and ACC attached at the fuse point "fresh air blower/cigarette lighter" BUT attached at the top of the fuse holder. It works as an ACC connection (stereo on/off with key) but I just want to make sure connecting at one point - top of fuse/bottom of fuse - isn't an issue.

Originally Posted by jrwilson

One thing that confused me was that some of the fuses don't have any connection at the top, but it turns out some of them are connected on the backside of the panel.

I noticed this right away. Some fuses sadly were not right or in the wrong spot (previous owner)... After removing and cleaning contact points, tightening screws/connections and checking wires and could see the same thing you brought up.


Thanks!
Erik

[darrin]

Originally Posted by fallingat120mph

That has been the question I have had in my head. I built new lines (both fused) going to the head unit for both constant (attached at battery) and ACC attached at the fuse point "fresh air blower/cigarette lighter" BUT attached at the top of the fuse holder. It works as an ACC connection (stereo on/off with key) but I just want to make sure connecting at one point - top of fuse/bottom of fuse - isn't an issue.




Thanks!
Erik

If connected at the top of the fuse bar (above the fuse), then the lead is not protected by the fuse (unfused) -- move it to the bottom

[fallingat120mph]

Originally Posted by darrin

If connected at the top of the fuse bar (above the fuse), then the lead is not protected by the fuse (unfused) -- move it to the bottom

Many thanks!

Erik

[PeteKz]

To be sure, take out the fuse and check both ends of the fuse holder for voltage. The one with voltage is the "hot" side, and the other side is protected by the fuse. Use the protected side.

[fallingat120mph]

Originally Posted by PeteKz

To be sure, take out the fuse and check both ends of the fuse holder for voltage. The one with voltage is the "hot" side, and the other side is protected by the fuse. Use the protected side.

Already did this and thanks, good advice.

I was checking and thought to myself - 'just remove the fuse and check' so easy to forget the simple things....



Erik