I started cleaning the fan and fan housing using soapy water, Scotchbrite maroon pads and Formula 409. My fan and fan housing have pitting and a really tough coat of dried oil/grease so I really had to scrub. The Formula 409 helped cut through the oil/grease. The leading edges of the fan blades were especially tough. I spent 3 hours on the fan and 1 1/2 hours on the fan housing. Getting better, but not done yet. I have a can of Eastwood Diamond Satin Clear on the way so when I decide I'm done cleaning, I can shoot a couple coats of clear as was recommended in a PP forum thread from 2021.

Cleaning set up:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1709536016.jpg

Before cleaning:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1709536126.jpg

After first cleaning session:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1709536190.jpg

Thanks Dan!! Nice work on the fan, btw. It's amazing how much better things look with just a little elbow grease :) Couple other items I wanted to run by you. The yellow wire from the starter solenoid running back into the engine bay seems no longer required, as it served to supply juice to items no longer needed in EFI setup. Am I correct in this thinking? Also, I only have the large defogger relay and the small circular blower relay in the engine bay. You seemed to have another one in your setup. Did you add this or this was already there? Trying to figure out which wire to get the switched 12v from and it's a bit confusing back there :D

Oh the joys of being a newb to all this DIY stuff. It is quite fun, though. I have a hard time doing my actual job sometimes since I have so much work to do on the car!!

Hi Nick,

1. There are 2 yellow wires connected to the starter solenoid, 1 wire is coming from ignition switch and the other wire goes to the CIS throttle valve switch then to the thermo switch and the cold start valve so that yellow wire is no longer needed.

2. My car has 2 small round and 1 large rectangular relays on the electrical panel at the left rear corner of the engine bay. The large rectangular relay is for the rear window defogger. The small round relays were for the rear heater blower motor and the warm up regulator. I used the black wire from pin 87 (yellow / black wire at the relay then becomes black wire at the 14 pin connector) of the heater blower relay.

NOTE: The heater blower relay (on my car) as wired from the factory is set up as starter cranking interrupt (pin 85 is connected via yellow wire to starter solenoid). While I had the electrical panel disconnected to install the MSD ignition box, I clipped the yellow wire at the relay and connected pin 85 to ground with a brown 16 awg wire. With that modification I had switched 12V.

Thanks again, Dan. I meant to say the yellow/black wire, because as you correctly pointed out there are two yellow wires coming from the starter. Glad to know I wasn't missing anything by thinking that yellow/black was no longer needed. The engine wiring harness is greatly simplified with EFI in one aspect, but is also complicated in another due to the many ECU connections and power distribution required. I'm also likely over-engineering the whole thing, wanting to keep things tidy and looking "new" :)

I'll have to confirm if I'll need to do the same pin 85 grounding that you did. I might not need to do, though, based on my initial overview of the wiring diagrams I have. The things that give me pause are always that the official diagrams and what has transpired over the years of the prior owners don't always line up... hehe... Good thing I'm an engineer at heart and like to solve problems. There's a never a shortage of them with these old cars!

Hi Nick,

Just to be clear. On my 75 Carrera, BOTH wires connected at the starter solenoid are yellow.

On the blower motor relay pin 87 (output power out, normally open) is yellow/black to the 14 pin connector (male, bullet) at the back of the rear left corner electrical panel. From the corresponding female 14 pin connector pin 87 is black. That black wire is now the switched 12V supply to my EFI electrical panel.

14 pin connector for engine wiring harness:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1709666068.jpg

EFI eletrical panel:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1709666142.jpg

The big red wire is the switched 12V supply and is connected the black wire from pin 87 of the blower motor relay:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1709666244.jpg

Good luck with your project!

Hi Nick,

Another thought came to mind. When I was planning the CIS to ITB EFI conversion on my car, I initially thought about combining the existing wiring with the EFI wiring into a single engine harness. I later decided against a single harness and decided to keep 2 separate harnesses. I did so because I didn't want to disturb / replace the 14 pin connector for the stock engine wiring harness - if I truly made 1 engine wiring harness then I would need all of the wires EFI and stock to connect/disconnect through preferably through 1 connector (I could use 2 connectors but that in my opinion would not look good/professional).

The key point for me was how could I best wire the EFI so the whole system (engine / transmission) would remain serviceable without having to disturb my EFI wiring connections to either the EFI power panel or the EFI connector blocks. So I decided against combining stock with EFI wiring. That serviceablity issue also drove me to install weather tight connectors on the TPS and the O2 sensor interface unit (14Point7) cable.

My modified stock engine/transmission wiring harness:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1709670292.jpg


EFI wiring 1 (EFI 12V switched power, ECT sensor, O2 sensor interface cable, distributor Pertronix signal, distributor Pertronix 12V power, MSD ignition coil + & -):

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1709670541.jpg


EFI wiring 2 (Injector connectors bank1, TPS, Injector connectors bank2):

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1709670687.jpg


Hope this is clear / helpful.

Definitely helpful, Dan. We are on the same page.. mostly. You and I were both referring to those two yellow wires attached to the starter. In my case, one was solid Yellow the other was Yellow/Blue... or Yellow/Black, it was hard to tell given the condition of the wire :)

When I was taking out the CIS and fuel lines, etc., the harness had cracked in a few places and the wires were compromised. So, I do plan on replacing the entire harness with new wires, as I'm also upgrading the alternator, which necessitated replacing the old power/ground wires with higher gauge anyway. Since I'll be doing all that, I figured I'd create a whole new harness. That said, I'm still debating whether to just purchase a new stock connector for the harness or replace with a modern connector that would be much more waterproof than the open, plastic one that is on there now.

I was hoping to keep the new fuse box tucked away with the existing relays/fuses, but that might just be too hard to do. Still noodling that one. Where did you route the B+/B- wires from the MSD? They say they need to route to the battery directly. I've assumed there's an existing B+ in the engine bay that I can tap in to and I can just ground to the chassis, but haven't gotten that far to confirm yet. Will post pics once I leave my planning phase and get into the doing phase :)

Love this DIY community!!

Hi Nick,

I connected the MSD B+ to battery terminal on the starter (thank you Al for the idea) and I connected MSD B- to the chassis ground connection that the thick copper webbed cable from the transmission uses (near / beneath the starter).

The single large red wire (6 awg I think) from the starter runs up to the alternator where there is a 12 awg red wire connected that runs through the harness and 14 pin connector and is the source for unswitched 12V to the left rear electrical panel and is connected to pin 30 (output power in) for the relays.

My fan and especially the fan housing were very dull and pitted. After 14 hours of sanding and polishing, I am done - just need to spray several coats of clear, then ready for re-install.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1709709195.jpg

Looks great, Dan!! I was hoping to do the same. Actually had it lined up for a cerakote finish, but then I noticed the housing was cracked in a few spots and thought it better to just bite the bullet and buy a new housing/fan.

Also, thanks for the additional details for the MSD power lines. That makes perfect sense.

Did you consider having it media blasted (glass bead)? Takes less than an hour.

Hi Jeff,

Before I started reconditioning my fan and fan housing, I searched the internet and happened upon a PP forum thread from 2021 in which you made the recommendation for glass bead blasting. That forum thread also discussed with recommendations of use of the various grades of Scotchbrite pads and recommended Eastwood Diamond Satin Clear.

So being a DIY'er, I started cleaning / sanding /polishing and I ordered a can of Eastwood Diamond Satin Clear. I spent a number hours over 3 days and was able to clean up the fan and fan housing quite a bit, but I still couldn't get the oxide / grime out of all the nooks and crannies. I thought maybe enough is enough.

Then you added your reply above and I thought "what the heck, give it a try". So after another internet search, I headed over to Spray Technology in Santa Clara, CA (spraytechnologysv.com) and talked with Fidel who said he could clean out the areas I had not been able to with Vapor Honing (their name for glass bead blasting with water).

The price was right ($125) and he said they would have the job completed and ready for pickup tomorrow, so I left my fan and fan housing with Spray Tech and I'll find out tomorrow how they did. Photos of their work will be forthcoming...

That is great, let us know how it turns out what you get it back!

I'm having the fan and bunch of other parts vapor blasted by Mark E. at the Ninestore. I've gotten a few pieces back already. The results are amazing.

My fan housing was cracked beyond saving so I bought the Rennline two piece replacement. It looks great but it's $$$.

I got my fan and fan housing from Spray Tech, all of the oxide / grime are gone:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1709930752.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1709930752.jpg

Now I can buff with Scotchbrite pads and bring out the shine.

I knew I would like the result, so I dropped off the cam chain boxes and covers and the exhaust valve covers to have them glass bead blasted as well. So much easier than scrubbing by hand!

I worked on polishing the fan housing after returning from Spray Tech this afternoon. I started with maroon scotchbrite, then grey scotchbrite, then white scotchbrite. I rinsed off and dried the fan housing, then I made multiple passes rubbing in metal polishing cream followed by dry towel buffing and I finally got the result I was looking for:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1709945787.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1709945787.jpg

Next step is to repeat the above process with the fan.

Thank you Jeff for the glass bead blasting suggestion. I wouldn't have gotten this result without it.

Fan cleaned up pretty well....

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1710045691.jpg


I'll shoot a couple coats of clear on the fan and fan housing next week.

Refreshing the engine tin....

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1710106014.jpg

Dry overnight then flip over and do the other side.

Paint is drying faster than expected. Batch 1 is complete and now resting on cardboard under the front end of the car. Batch 2, side 1 is done, maybe I can do side 2 before I turn in.

Hint: I just mopped the entire garage floor to get up the black overspray dust to keep the wife on-board with the project.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1710124310.jpg

It’s looking so very nice. Fan & shroud deserve to be above the fireplace mantle! Wifey will understand...

Got the fan and fan housing ready for clear coat. UPS dropped off the Eastwood Diamond Satin Clear coat and tested the can - spitting and sputtering, couldn't get the darn can to spray clean (guess the cold trip from PA to CA messed it up). So off to Home Depot for my tried and true: Rust-Oleum 2x Ultracover in satin clear and all was good.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1710211854.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1710211887.jpg

Mounted the alternator in the fan housing (hand tightened 3 of the 6 mounting nuts). With a 21mm deep socket, tapped the fan onto the alternator shaft. The fan spins free within the fan housing. First re-assembly success.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1710222375.jpg

Looking good Dan!! Love how the fan/housing turned out. Can't wait to see her all back together!

Picked up more engine parts from glass bead blasting at Spray Technology. Very happy with the results. Just need to clean with soapy water and light scotchbrite scrub to remove loosely adhered particles, then ready for assembly.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1710273055.jpg

During the CIS to ITB EFI install on post #8 (page #1) of this thread I gave 2 lines to the work done to the distributor:

Once out, I disassembled the dizzy to reveal the mechanical advance and then used steel wire to wrap tightly around the posts holding the return spring on both sides of the dizzy thereby locking out the mechanical advance so that the ignition timing advance would be controlled entirely by the ECU. The dizzy was reassembled and reinstalled into the engine.

Today, I went back and dis-assembled the distributor to inspect the condition of the mechanical advance lock out wires I installed. I took photos of the process this time that I will share below.

Start:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1710453863.jpg


Remove ignition rotor:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1710453922.jpg


Remove Pertronix magnet from distributor cam:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1710453996.jpg


Feed Pertronix wires out of the distributor housing:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1710454080.jpg

Remove Pertronix hold down nuts:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1710454163.jpg


Remove Pertronix:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1710454215.jpg


Remove C-clip for vacuum retard diaphragm:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1710454427.jpg


Remove vacuum retard diaphragm mounting screw (1 of 2):
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1710454522.jpg


Remove vacuum retard diaphragm mounting screw (2 of 2) - this screw also secures the distributor base plate in the distributor housing:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1710454655.jpg


Remove the vacuum retard diaphragm:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1710454833.jpg

Remove the second base plate mounting screw:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1710455018.jpg


I used a flat blade screwdriver to pry loose the distributor base plate from the distributor housing:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1710455161.jpg


I removed the base plate to reveal the mechanical advance assembly:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1710455875.jpg


I then removed the plastic access cover from the distributor housing so I could inspect the lock out wires. This is a photo of the good (well secured) lock out wire:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1710455417.jpg


This photo shows the other lock out wire that is only marginally secured:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1710455642.jpg


At this point I decided to remove the mechanical advance springs so I could get better access to the spring mounting posts and replace both of the lock out wires.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1710456110.jpg

Trim and bend down lock out wire #1:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1710456227.jpg


Install lock out wire #2:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1710456281.jpg


Trim and bend down lock out wire #2:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1710456362.jpg


Then I re-assembled the distributor.

nice
 

Dan,
Once again...really nice work. You are showing others how, with the right skill set and attitude, they can move forward with their projects......Definitely the way that i and many others moved forward on our projects....by researching, asking questions, reading the available reference books and....learning enough to dig in and do-it yourself (with a little help from your friends.)

regards,
al

While the engine and trans are out, I replaced the engine compartment seals (short piece - front of the engine compartment and long piece - rear and sides of the engine compartment).

Removal of the old seals was pretty straightforward. There was a piece of putty in the front corners that I removed and saved to be re-installed after the new seals were fitted. Then I pulled the end of the seal straight away from the C-channel the seal is fitted into and worked toward the other end until the seal was completely removed. I started with the short seal at the front of the engine compartment, then repeated the process for the long seal at the sides and rear of the engine compartment.

C-channel the seal fits into:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1710992948.jpg


Pry tools I used to repair collapsed areas of C-channel so I could fit the new seals:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1710993115.jpg


The old seals after removal:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1710993283.jpg


Cross section of the seal:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1710993537.jpg


To install the new seals (I installed the short - front seal first), I positioned the seal so it evenly overlapped the section of C-channel it was going into, then I pushed the upper lip of the seal into the upper C of the channel and then pushed the lower lip of the seal with my thumb up and over the edge of the lower C of the channel. Then I used a plastic (non mar) pry tool to push the lower lip of the seal into the lower C of the channel to seat the seal in the C-channel. I repeated this process the entire length of the seal, then repeated for the other seal.

Plastic (non mar) pry tool for seal installation:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1710994096.jpg


Installing new seal:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1710994177.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1710994177.jpg


New front seal installed:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1710994395.jpg


Installing new rear seal:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1710994567.jpg


Putty that was in the front corners:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1710994655.jpg

New front seal:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1710994910.jpg


New rear / side seal:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1710994997.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1710994997.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1710994997.jpg


New seals with putty in place (right front corner):
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1710995137.jpg


New seals with putty in place (left front corner):
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1710995206.jpg

Following! Impressive gain.

It's a great day in the garage!

1. I got my intake valve covers back from Spray Tech, polished them up and shot 2 coats of satin clear.

Sidebar: When I picked up the covers from Spray Tech, the crew had already left for the day so Fidel gave me a detailed tour of the facility. Turns out I have been incorrect about glass bead blasting with water. The glass bead blasting is done dry, the glass bead medium is a fine white powder.

I had tried to refurbish the of the valve covers by spraying 2 coats of black, but even with sanding and degreasing before hand, the covers didn't take the paint evenly (I painted the top side only). At that point, I took the covers to Spray Tech for help.

Fidel at Spray Tech started by soaking the covers in acetone over night as he suspected the covers were not aluminum and did not want to use stripper that might damage the covers. Once most of the fresh paint was removed by the acetone and hand scrubbing, he started glass bead blasting and all went well on the topside of the cover, but when he tried glass bead blasting the original black finish on the bottom side of the cover the bead blasting produced what he called "sparks" so he stopped and left the bottom side alone.

After I got home a looked at the part number cast on the bottom side of the covers (901.105.115.0R) and compared the part number to the one listed in Appendix B of Wayne's 911 Engine Rebuilding book which listed 911/911 Turbo (1974-89) as part number 901.105.115.03 along with the comment "Verify that yours is manufactured out of aluminum, not magnesium". Given Fidel's sparking and the part number on the valve cover leads he to conclude my intake valve covers are made of magnesium. Everyday is a school day.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1711053312.jpg


Intake valve covers from Spray Tech, after polishing, and after 2 coats of satin clear coat:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1711053061.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1711053151.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1711053215.jpg


2. I got a present from FedEx in the form of 2 rather heavy boxes from Craig Garrett (cgarr) from G2 in Grand Rapids, MI. Craig rebuild my heads, rocker arms, and cam towers and they look awesome! Thank you Craig, and thank you Al for recommending Craig to me.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1711053415.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1711053505.jpg

I found a thread in the forum that addresses part number versus casting number confusion I was having with my intake valve covers:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/288905-mag-vs-al-upper-valve-covers.html#post2652005

Unlike my MB daily driver where Mercedes either prints, molds or casts the part number on a part, Porsche uses a casting number on the cast parts (like the upper valve cover) that is internally used and is distinct from the part number.

So the upper valve cover part number is 901.105.115.03 as listed in Appendix B of Wayne's 911 Engine Rebuilding book while the casting number of the magnesium cover is 901.105.115.0R and the casting number of the aluminum cover is 901.105.115.2R.

First the CIS to ITB EFI project, and now the continuation with the engine and transmission rebuilt project is definitely giving me ample learning opportunities!

Waiting for parts is difficult, so I go out take off the car cover and shine her up.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1711153663.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1711153663.jpg

I have learned a lot of valuable information from these forum pages - the most recent being that I can download Porsche parts catalogs (referred to as "PET" in forum threads) by model and year range (eg. 911 1974-77). I just went to Porsche.com, from Menu select Services, then select Classic Services & Parts. Scroll down the page to "-Genuine Parts" then select "Porsche Genuine Parts Catalogues". From Choose Catalogue select the model and year range, then press the "Display" button and boom your pdf format catalog opens. Thank you PP forum members!

Replaced the deck lid seal while I wait for engine and transmission parts (really easy).

Removal:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1711486473.jpg


Clean up area under the seal:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1711486473.jpg


New seal installed:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1711486473.jpg

Originally Posted by NickW21
Hey Dan,

I am still struggling to make sure I set this all up properly. There was one response where you mentioned: "I connected the MSD B+ to battery terminal on the starter (thank you Al for the idea) and I connected MSD B- to the chassis ground connection that the thick copper webbed cable from the transmission uses (near / beneath the starter)."

When I looked at the picture from an earlier post, it seemed like the wires would not be long enough to reach the starter from the MSD (since they only reach the midpoint of the engine near the hood latch). Did you connect to the Alternator instead or is it just some optical illusion that makes it look like the wires are shorter than they really are?

Thanks again for all your support. Hoping I can make some real progress in the next week or so. I think I finally have all parts in place to do much of the install now!!

Best,
Nick

Hi Nick,

I used some spare red and black wire to make wire extensions. I used 10 gauge because I had some on hand but the high current wires are 12 gauge so you can use that. I cut the wires from the MSD box to about 12 inches and crimped on wiring connectors (I used bullet sytle, but I know you want to use a moisture resistant connector) to connect each high current wire from the MSD box to its extension wire. Then I made the extension wires long enough to run along the back of the engine bay out of sight and drop down to connect to battery terminal on the starter (red) and engine/trans chassis ground lug (black). Hope this makes sense.
Dan

Hey Nick,
See the close up photos below.


The yellow arrow points to the wires coming out of the MSD Street Fire CDI box. The red wire is the MSD logic power wire. The larger gauge B+ (red) and B- (black) wires are under these wires and are hard to see in this photo.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1711516649.jpg


Extra close up of wiring in left front corner of the engine bay:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1711517043.jpg

The black arrow is pointing to the yellow bullet connector and red 10 awg MSD B+ wire extension. Just out of sight below the B+ extension wire is the yellow bullet connector and black 10 awg MSD B- wire extension. The other end of each B+/B- extension wire has a ring connector crimped to it and is connected to the battery terminal of the starter (B+/red) and the engine / trans chassis ground lug (B-/black).

The red arrow is pointing to the red 10 awg wire that supplies 12V switched power to the EFI power panel (back near the fan shroud it is connected to the black engine harness wire that originally powered the blower motor). The smaller red wire that is taped to the 10 awg red wire is the MSD logic power wire.

Thanks for that, Dan. A couple other questions if you please...

Did you ground the MS ECU to the chassis or the engine block? I was doing some reading and it seemed like the preferred method is to the engine block due to possible voltage drops, but it's also possible that I'm reading that wrong. So, just curious as to how you set that up.

Also, did you connect the power grounds (pins 15-19) to the same ground point?

Finally, not sure if you connected a the brake booster vacuum line to your vacuum manifold, but if you did, which direction does the vacuum flow? I need to make sure I install the check valve in the appropriate way :) I was thinking it would flow TO the manifold, but I'm basically just guessing :D

inching ever so slowly forward....

-Nick

Hi Nick,

Regarding ground connections, at the Al's suggestion, I connected grounds for the ECU to the grounding lug that is welded to the inside of the left rear fender located beneath the fuel accumulator mounting bracket (red arrow in the photo below):
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1712009555.jpg

There are 3 through bolts with nuts that secure the bracket to the fender. Remove the 3 bolts, then remove the bracket and the ground lug will be revealed.

I ran a main ground wire from the fender chassis ground lug over to the EFI power panel (yellow arrow):
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1712009871.jpg

The orange arrows point to the ECU ground connections (pins 15-19).
The red arrow points to the 14Point7 O2 Sensor Interface unit grounds (black and white wires).

Regarding vacuum manifold: I don't have a brake booster, but the vacuum source is toward the engine. So I would mount the check valve so the engine can pull a vacuum on the brake booster diaphragm then not let the vacuum in the booster drop when you step on the throttle and the engine intake manifold vacuum drops.

Hi Nick,

Brake booster check valve: mount the check valve so air can flow from the brake booster to the engine, but not flow air from the engine to the brake booster.

Hope that's clear / helpful.

Dan

Thanks for confirming, Dan. I know our configurations are slightly different, but did you end up taking apart the shielded white/black wires (pins 24 & 1 respectively) from the ECU and connecting them up as well? If so, did you also ground the shielded wire itself (pin 2 per the documentation)? I wasn't sure if I needed to ground the shield wire or if it was ok to just leave that unconnected.

Things are starting to shape up. Finally beginning to see light at the end of the tunnel!! Here's a sneak peek of the cleaned up shroud/engine bay with the ITBs loosely mounted just so I can start to see what the final product will look like :)

I installed a new engine pad over the weekend, which definitely made things look a lot nicer back there! Got some rivnuts in for mounting the FPR. Those things are magical!!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1712061290.jpg