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Inspect and wash the case halves
Today I split the case halves and got my first look at the inside of the crankcase post Ollie's machining services.
Case before shuffle pins install: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1718930473.jpg Case after shuffle pins install: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1718930536.jpg Washing the case halves with soapy water per Tim at Ollie's: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1718930618.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1718930618.jpg Rinse station: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1718930618.jpg Blow dry with compressed air: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1718930618.jpg Finish drying in the sun: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1718930618.jpg Next up: JB Weld oil plugs on case halves and timing chain boxes, replace various external studs that were removed at the machine shop and get the 4,5,6 case half mounted to the engine stand. |
JB Weld + Checking out the crankshaft
The case halves dried quickly in the summer sun, so after a break I got busy and mixed up, then applied JB Weld to the backside of the timing chain cases and to the oil plugs in the crankcase halves.
Equal parts of white and black JB Weld: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1718946821.jpg Mix until you get a uniform gray color: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1718946821.jpg Before application of JB Weld: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1718946821.jpg After application of JB Weld: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1718946821.jpg Again with the other case half, before application: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1718946821.jpg After application of JB Weld: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1718946821.jpg I set the case halves and the timing chain boxes aside to let then cure overnight. Next, I pulled out the crankshaft and mounted it to the crankshaft stand I bought at Stomski Racing: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1718947423.jpg Mounted the crankshaft / stand in my workbench vice: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1718947423.jpg I used outside micrometers (1 -2 inch for the nose bearing and 2 - 3 inch for the rest of the mains and the rod journals) to measure the journal diameters: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1718947423.jpg After micro-polishing the crankshaft measured in spec: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1718947423.jpg |
Organizing parts back from Ollie's and crankshaft assembly
This morning I got to host a show and tell for an old college buddy and his 5 year old grandson. Wanting to put on a good show, I went thru all of the parts I had brought back from the machine show, got them organized, put the transmission mounting studs back onto the crankcase halves and got the 4,5,6 half of the crankcase attached to the mounting yoke and back onto the engine stand. It was fun showing off clean and shiny new parts - my young guest was wide eyed, he's definitely becoming a car guy. The show and tell was well received and after my guests left, I was inspired to get some work done even if it was 90+ deg in the garage.
Now I'm ready to starting rocking with the engine re-assembly (I am following Wayne D's 911 engine rebuilding book - I am at section 2 of chapter 5) It's nice to see evidence when you pay to have the crankshaft + flywheel + pressure plate balanced: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719098377.jpg Alignment marks to keep the clutch / flywheel assembly balanced when it is re-assembled later in build: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719098670.jpg The crankcase finally back on the engine stand: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719098796.jpg Crankshaft and connecting rods assembly. Checking bearing clearance with plastigage. Because I had measured all of the main and connecting rod journal diameters (see previous post) and everything measured in spec, I chose to sample test the bearing clearance on cylinders 4 and 2. The plastigage results were approximately .002 inch (.05mm) for both, so I felt confident about continuing with assembly of the connecting rods onto the crankshaft. I cleaned the crankshaft with carburetor cleaner, then IPA. I worked on one connecting rod at a time - I used a ball peen hammer to knock the old rod bolts out of the rod cap then installed new rod bolts and used new rod nuts. Next I cleaned the rod, rod cap, new rod bolts with carburetor cleaner, and dried with lint free wipes. Then I cleaned the same plus the new rod bearings with IPA and dried them. I installed the bearings into the rod and rod cap, applied a liberal helping of assembly lube onto the bearings and Loctite red onto the rod bolt threads, and installed the rod onto the rod journal of the crankshaft (torque to spec (14.7 ft-lbs for my 2.7 engine) then turn an additional 90 degrees of rotation with a breaker bar - don't use the torque wrench for the 90 degree part or you will wipe out the torque wrench calibration). I installed the rods from front to back (#4 - #1 - #5 - #2 - #6 - #3). http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719100540.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719100540.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719100540.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719100540.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719100540.jpg |
When you assemble the engine, please don’t put any Loctite 574 on the main bearing webbing. You absolutely do not need it and all it can do is cause the bores to be out of round.
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Scott Winders,
If I am understanding you correctly, then I would put the Loctite 574 sealant only around the periphery of the case - see the photo below. I have highlighted the areas you are suggesting NOT to put Loctite 574. I see your point sealant on the interior webbing isn't necessary to prevent oil leakage, but will the lack of sealant on the interior webbing cause stress between the inner mating surfaces and the periphery mating surfaces? Or is the thickness is of sealant that remains in the mating surfaces negligible once those mating surfaces are torqued down? http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719112751.jpg I am planning to get up early tomorrow and get the case halves together while it is relatively cool, so this is an urgent decision point. |
All I am going to say is that the reason some people put 574 on the main web surfaces is to reduce the chances of fretting. You have eliminated that potential problem with the shuffle pins. So there is no reason to use 574 there in your situation.
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Got up before dawn and got busy...
Installed the crankshaft assembly and the intermediate shaft / oil pump into the 4,5,6 case half: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719160760.jpg Made a decision about case sealing after consulting with others via earlier forum posts - decided on Loctite 574 for the periphery and only applied a small ring around the thru bolt holes for the interior webbing. I got the case halves mated and torqued down. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719160760.jpg |
Aluminum washer deformation on case perimeter nuts
While I was bolting the the case halves together this morning, I observed that the aluminum washers under the case perimeter nuts were getting very deformed (crushed) when I tightened the case perimeter nuts to the torque spec of 18.4 ft-lbs (25 Nm) per Wayne D's 911 engine rebuilding book, Appendix A.
Close up of aluminum washers - washer on left is one of the original washers that came off the engine when it was disassembled showing mild deformation, the washer in the center is a new unused washer that came in an engine rebuild hardware kit I purchased on PP, and the washer on the right is a washer that came from the PP hardware kit after 1 tightening to spec cycle. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719192886.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719192886.jpg The first thing that came to mind was, "Did I use the wrong torque spec?". So I rechecked the torque spec from Appendix A in Wayne D's book which listed: 18.4 ft-lbs / 25 Nm. Next, I checked an old Haynes manual on the bookshelf which listed: 18 ft-lbs / 2.5 kgf-m. So using new washers, I tried both 18.4 ft-lbs versus 18 ft-lbs on 2 of the case perimeter stud locations - no difference. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719192886.jpg Then I thought, "Is my torque wrench out of calibration?", so I pulled out a second 3/8 in drive torque wrench and tried another set of new washers at both 18.4 ft-lbs versus 18 ft-lbs - no difference. Finally I thought, "Is there something different about the new aluminum washers versus the aluminum washers that came off the engine?", so I pulled out the bag of nuts and washers from the engine disassembly and tried several of the old washers and they performed just as had originally - only minor deformation when torqued to spec (18.4 ft-lbs). So in conclusion, the new aluminum washers in the hardware kit from PP are made from a softer aluminum alloy than the original aluminum washers and if the new washers allow the case perimeter nuts to maintain their torque setting after being grossly deformed, then I suppose the new aluminum washers are acceptable, even though they don't look so good. The next step will be to recheck the case perimeter nuts for proper torque - if they are holding torque then okay? If not, I have to find different M8 aluminum washers to replace the washers from the PP hardware kit. Any thoughts from PP forum readers are welcome and will be appreciated. Thanks. |
You got Chinesium washers. Where did you get them? I would reuse the old washers before those. Better yet, get the correct ones.
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Aluminum washer deformation on case perimeter nuts
After I sat back and reread my previous post it was clear what I needed to do. I went out to the garage and replaced all of "new" aluminum case perimeter stud washers. I just went one by one and took off the "new" washer and replaced it with an "old" washer that I flipped over so the deformation from the previous use faced the crankcase. Then I reinstalled the nut and tightened to the 18.4 ft-lbs torque spec.
Problem solved. "New" aluminum washers that were removed after 1 use - don't buy this stuff from Pelican Parts, it's junk.... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719206805.jpg |
Seriously, contact Pelican about this. They need to know they got a counterfiet supplier and to purge those out of their inventory. Those are dead soft aluminum, instead of the alloy they are supposed to be made from.
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Very useful information. Will be a factor in my plan moving forward, thanks.
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I sent Pelican Parts a message via their contact page regarding the problems I was having with the 8mm aluminum washers when used with the case perimeter nuts.
Then I looked at the details for the Complete Case Hardware Super Kit I had purchased. Apparently others have had the same problem since 2017. Sounds like these aluminum washers work fine on the valve covers where the torque spec is 6 ft-lbs versus 18.4 ft-lbs for the case perimeter nuts. Product Details Porsche Complete Case Hardware Super Kit. Quantity in Stock: 5 Time to Ship: Ships Tomorrow! Brand: Pelican Parts Weight: 10 Associated Part Numbers: PEL REBKT 06, PEL-REBKT-06, PEL.REBKT.06, PELREBKT06 Customer Reviews Here's what our customers have to say about this part: (3) bigred23 June 6th, 2017 Wurth M8 washers suspect I agree with previous post - Wurth M8 washer quality is suspect. Some got pretty beat up during case perimeter torque procedure. Otherwise, kit seems good; was missing some parts, but Pelican quickly rectified (1) JPM January 23rd, 2017 Bad Aluminum Washers The Wurth brand 8mm valve washers in my kit are junk. They squished when sealing the perimeter case nuts at the recommended torque value and are evidently made of soft aluminum. The other parts seem to be okay. (4) Paul I. June 22nd, 2016 Made like a lot easier '88 911 - This definitely helped to keep my engine rebuild organized. All parts seemed to be of good quality. No issues. From the Porsche Parts Catalog I downloaded at the Porsche website: Crankcase perimeter nut and washer: P/N 900 031 014 30 Washer A 8,4 Qty 22 P/N 900 084 004 03 Hexagon nut M8 Qty 22 These parts numbers are listed for the valve covers as well. From this experience I would just order the parts from my local Porsche dealer and not mess around "OEM" suppliers at Pelican Parts. |
Finished assembly of the crankcase
This afternoon I got back out to the garage and completed the assembly of the crankcase. That included re-installing a dozen studs onto the case that were removed for machining work. Then I could install the breather cover, oil thermostat, oil pressure warning light switch, head studs, inboard timing chain ramps, oil pressure relief pistons, the flywheel (still haven't figured out the decoder ring for the asymmetric bolt pattern), and the crankshaft pulley.
When I was done, I was relieved to feel the crankshaft / connecting rod assembly rotating smoothly - small victory in a long process.... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719377148.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719377148.jpg |
yes
Congrats Dan.... feels good to make progress, doesn't it?
regards, al |
Pistons and Cylinders
Got right back to work this AM and got the piston/ring/cylinders assemblies I prepared several weeks ago installed.
Tim at Ollie's marks the case with the total amount of material removed from the case half depth, in my case 030 for .030 inches - he provided me with a set of .040 inch (1mm) cylinder shims. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719430777.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719430777.jpg Installed cylinder #1 and checked deck height which measured 1.05mm. Then I pulled the cylinder back up far enough to install the c-clip on the left side of the piston and pushed the cylinder back down to mate with the case. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719431090.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719431090.jpg I then installed cylinder #2 and cylinder #3. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719431300.jpg I also checked the deck height on cylinder #6, which measured 0.95mm. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719431300.jpg As suggested in Wayne D's 911 engine rebuilding book, I used clear plastic wrap to prevent wayward c-clips from falling into the crankcase. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719431300.jpg Thank you Al for recommending the Stomski Racing c-clip insertion tool, it worked great - drama free c-clip insertion. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719431300.jpg |
Heads
Next, I installed the cylinder tin and then I installed the heads (only finger tight) so I could close up the combustion chambers.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719432252.jpg I used a flexible parts grabber to lower the ARP 12 point nuts onto the head studs. I used anti-seize compound on the head studs, washers and nuts as recommended by ARP. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719432252.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719432252.jpg It's really beginning to look like a 911 engine, but now I will slow down the assembly process while I mock-up the cam tower and set cam timing then measure piston to valve clearance on intake and exhaust for cylinder #1 and cylinder #4. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719432252.jpg |
Mocking up the valve train
Today I got busy and got the cam towers and chain boxes installed in mock up mode (no sealant between the cam tower and the heads).
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719632541.jpg Camshaft in 1,2,3 tower rotates freely: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719632541.jpg Timing chain box installed on 1,2,3 bank: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719632541.jpg Cam tower installed on 4,5,6 bank: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719632541.jpg Timing chain box installed on 4,5,6 bank: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719632541.jpg A piece of pipe from the tool box holds the timing chain so I can install the outboard chain ramp on the 4,5,6 bank: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719632541.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719632541.jpg |
Mocking up the valve train
I continue mocking up the valve train by installing the chain sprockets and measuring the sprocket alignment - I measured an alignment delta of 0.18mm on the 1,2,3 sprocket with 4 shims and 0.13mm on the 4,5,6 sprocket with 3 shims which as it was upon disassembly (max alignment delta is 0.25mm per Wayne D's 911 engine rebuilding book).
The Stomski Racing cam sprocket alignment fixture made for easy, straight forward measurements by securely positioning a straight edge from the case directly above the intermediate shaft to a point directly above the timing chain sprocket. I used a digital caliper to measure (via the access port) the depth to the face of the 4,5,6 chain sprocket on the intermediate shaft from the surface of the crankcase where the intermediate shaft cover is fastened (51.48mm). For the 4,5,6 sprocket, this is the target for the distance I measure from the straight edge to the face of the cam sprocket. For the 1,2,3 sprocket, I add 54.80 to the value I measured initially to get a target of 51.48mm + 54.80mm = 106.28mm for the measurement I make from the straight edge to the face of the cam sprocket. Later engines without the access port are measured to the face of the intermediate shaft and there are a different set of the adders to calculate the measurement target for each cam sprocket. 1,2,3 sprocket torqued to spec for alignment check: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719702769.jpg 4,5,6 sprocket torqued to spec for alignment check with measurement fixture in place: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719702769.jpg Manual chain tensioners are in place in preparation for the camshaft timing procedure: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719702769.jpg I finished up this work session by installing 8mm studs for both the intake and the exhaust ports on the heads: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719702769.jpg |
Set Cam timing in mock up
Today I got the camshaft timing set on both cylinder #1 and #4.
The DigiDix from Stomski Racing made it really easy to keep track of crankshaft position: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719809373.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719809373.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719809373.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719809373.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719809373.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719809373.jpg Camshaft timing on cylinder #1 as installed (woodruff key on cam at 12 o'clock): http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719809373.jpg Camshaft timing on cylinder #1 set to spec: 5.0 - 5.4mm with 0.1mm valve lash (these cams are WebCam grind #149i/149e - 67-73 Mech Injection) http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719809373.jpg Camshaft timing on cylinder #4 set to spec. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719809373.jpg I found that I had to set the timing initially to the top of the spec - 5.4mm @ TDC, then when I removed my tool (for moving the cam position with the dowel pin removed - a 12mm-1.5 x 40mm bolt with some washers and a nut that I screwed into the end of the camshaft) and replaced the cam bolt and washer and torqued to spec (88 ft-lbs), then rotated the crankshaft 720 degrees (2 revs), the cam timing would settle in at around 5.2mm and would stay steady with additional revs of the crankshaft. |
Piston to valve clearance check in mock up
Got up early this morning and got out to the garage straight away. Was I going to have sufficient clearance between the valves and pistons? The short answer turned out to be yes - the JE 9.5:1 pistons with the WebCam S-cams, 1mm deck height and 0.25mm shave of the sealing surface on the heads turned out alright.
One cylinder #1: the exhaust valve had 2+mm (greater than 2.5mm) of clearance from 60 degrees BTDC to 30 degrees ATDC on the overlapping stroke, and the intake valve had minimum clearance of 2.0mm to 2.25mm from 2.5 degrees ATDC to 10 degrees ATDC and 2+mm of clearance everywhere else. Once I had the results from cylinder #1, I chose to check the intake valve clearance only on cylinder #4 from 10 degrees BTDC to 20 degrees ATDC on the overlapping stroke. The minimum clearance was 2.5mm from 5 degrees ATDC to 10 degrees ATDC and 2+mm clearance everywhere else. Per Wayne D's 911 engine rebuilding book, the minimum clearance for intake valves is 1.5mm and for exhaust valves is 2.0mm, so my engine passed the piston to valve clearance check! Test set up for clearance checking: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719848421.jpg Data record sheet of piston to valve clearance: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719848421.jpg |
Disassembly after mock up clearance checks
I got the cam towers and chain boxes removed from the engine. Now I can re-clean the cam tower and the top of the heads in preparation for final assembly with sealant.
Made space on the workbench to layout all the camshaft parts from the 1,2,3 bank. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719896976.jpg Back down to heads on the 1,2,3 bank. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719896976.jpg Breaking loose the camshaft bolt on the 4,5,6 bank. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719896976.jpg Camshaft parts laid out on the workbench separated and labeled by bank. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719896976.jpg Been here before.... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719896976.jpg |
Cam tower final assembly with sealant
It's going to be hot this week so I got out to the garage at sun up so I could do the cam tower assembly with sealant (Loctite 574 - orange goo) while it is 70 deg F not 90+ deg F.
During mock up I didn't bother to put in the oil return tubes (exhaust side from cam tower to crankcase), but this time it's the real deal so they must be installed. Notice these are the collapsing type tubes and I have installed them into the crankcase on the 1,2,3 side while they are still collapsed for shipping. It didn't even dawn on me they needed to be expanded until AFTER I applied the sealant to the 1,2,3 bank cam tower - operator error! I corrected that mistake by expanding and locking in place by moving the cir-clip to the upper groove for the 4,5,6 bank. All I could do was to move forward with getting the cam tower tightened and torqued down to the heads (in expanding / crossing pattern to 18.4 ft-lbs) - repeated the torque sequence 2 more times to make sure I didn't have any "movers", nuts that move a bit before the torque wrench clicks. Then I tightened and torqued down the heads to the cylinders (two steps: 7.4 ft-lbs first in pattern, then 23.5 ft in pattern) - same process, repeated 2 more times at final torque setting only. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719955492.jpg Underside of cam tower cleaned with IPA using lint free wipes in the area that has sealant applied. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719955492.jpg Sealant applied to the underside of the cam tower and used an acid brush to move the sealant around so it is applied evenly. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719955492.jpg Here the cam tower on the 1,2,3 bank is installed on the heads and everything is torqued down. The oil return tubes? I used a large (24 inch) pair of channel lock pliers to "pull" the upper section of the tubes into the cam tower while I held the lower section in place by hand. Then I moved the cir-clip to the upper most groove to lock the tube length. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719955492.jpg Then I repeated the entire process for the 4,5,6 bank. After I got done installing the cam towers, I was rotating the engine on the engine stand and cleaning off excess sealant that had squeezed out from between the cam tower and the heads when I noticed there was something strange about the 1,2,3 bank cam chain. When I looked at the 1,2,3 chain closely, I saw it was bound up. Then I looked into the crankcase and saw the problem: the chain had come completely off its sprocket on the intermediate shaft and was bound up against the front crankshaft counter weight of cylinder #4!! I freaked out - and thought if I can't get this chain back on its sprocket, I'm going to have to tear this entire engine apart to fix it. That episode lasted about 2 minutes, then I thought there has to be a way to fix this. If the chain could fall off the sprocket, then there must be enough clearance around the sprocket that the chain can be moved back onto the sprocket. So I pulled out a long, thin flat blade screw driver and started poking at the chain in the crankcase. Then it dawned on me that I need to remove the inboard chain ramps to get move maneuvering room - so I removed both the upper and lower chain ramps. With the chain ramps out of the way, I was able to fiddle with the chain and got it back onto the rear set of teeth on the sprocket - making progress. I continued manipulating the chain and was able to get it back on its sprocket and then I re-installed the inboard chain ramps. What a relief!! Being thoroughly traumatized, I decided to continue working in the now hot garage and get the chain boxes, camshafts, idler sprockets, outboard chain ramps and mechanical chain tensioners re-installed with the required assembly lube and gasket sealer applied so there would be no chance for the cam chains to come off their intermediate shaft sprockets. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719955492.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1719955492.jpg |
A thought from my experience . Sealant applied to the underside of the cam tower should be a line about the width of a narrow sharpie marker . Run the line around the outer edge of the flange , then a line down the middle , trace around the spring holes , that should do it .
The gap is less than one thousandth , hence the tiny amount of 574 |
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Timing Chain Tensioner and Rocker Arms Installation
Today I got the cam timing done and tried to install new chain tensioners (OEM from Pelican Parts, oil fed style) but the first tensioner didn't "pop" when I pulled the pin. So while I held the idler sprocket taute with one hand, I reached the workbench and grapped the second new tensioner and installed it (this one worked - the tensioner entended with a "pop" when I pulled the retaining pin).
I got the phone with Pelican Parts and without difficulty I got a replacement tensioner ordered and got an RMA to return the faulty tensioner via FedEx on Pelican Parts' dime. I also got the o-rings for the chain tensioners ordered, they do not come the engine gasket kit. Then I turned my attention to installing rocker arms. I had installed the intake rocker arm on cylinder #1 and #4 as part of the camshaft timing process. Next I installed the remaining rockers on the 1,2,3 bank and got the valve covers installed. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1720068864.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1720068864.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1720068864.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1720068864.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1720068864.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1720068864.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1720068864.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1720068864.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1720068864.jpg |
Rocker Arm, Distributor, Flywheel and Oil Cooler Install
Today before I resumed installing rocker arms on the 4,5,6 bank, I installed the distributor.
I rotated the crankshaft to "Z1" for cylinder #1. Before removing the distributor during engine tear down, I made a paint mark on the outside of the distributor body corresponding to the rotor orientation and another set of marks on the timing adjustment slot where the stud from crankcase goes thru indicating the position of the distributor. Then when I installed the distributor I just lined up the marks and drove in the distributor, the sealing o-ring requires a tap of a hammer to the distributor shaft (with a wood block in between) to set the distributor in place. Then I installed and torqued down the flywheel using red Loctite on the flywheel bolts. Finally, I got busy installing the rocker arms for the rest of the 4,5,6 bank and setting the valve lash. Then I installed the valve covers. Next, I installed the oil cooler. I coated the thick rubber sealing rings with clean motor oil, installed then on the crankcase, then positioned the oil cooler onto its 4 mounting studs and tightened / torqued down the mounting nuts using new spring steel washers. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1720162320.jpg Once I get the replacement timing chain tensioner and the o-rings for the tensioners, I can close up the timing chain boxes. |
Cam Tower Oil Supply Plumbing
Today was a short day in the shop. I installed the oil supply lines to the cam towers.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1720236629.jpg |
Install Fan Assembly, Mock up Shroud
Went back out to the garage for a short second session. I installed the fan assembly and the fan belt.
Note: I discovered the fan hold down strap can't be installed with the distributor and the oil pressure sending unit installed. So I pulled the distributor and the oil pressure sending unit, fed the fan hold down strap thru the openings at the base of the fan housing cradle, mounted the fan and tightened down the fan hold down strap, then went back and re-installed the distributor and the oil pressure sending unit. Next, I installed the small copper webbed ground strap between one of the upper case perimeter nuts and one of the nuts that holds the fan / alternator in the fan housing. Finally, I mocked up the fan shroud and block off plates just to see how they fit and look. Once I get the engine wiring harness in place and make the connections to the back of the alternator, I can do the final install of the fan shroud (I'll double check Wayne D's 911 engine rebuilding book first to see if I've missed anything - like I didn't do with the fan hold down strap). http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1720248724.jpg |
Install Engine Shroud, Wiring Harness and ITB's
Today I got the wiring to the back of the alternator connected, as well as, connecting the oil pressure sending unit, the oil temperature sending unit, and the oil pressure warning light switch. Then I was able to install the engine shroud and the ITB's.
Installed a new rubber grommet in the shroud where the alternator wires go thru. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1720295333.jpg Made the wiring connections to back of the alternator. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1720295333.jpg Connected the small copper webbed ground strap to the back of the alternator frame. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1720295333.jpg Getting close.... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1720295333.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1720295333.jpg |
It's looking real, Dan........getting close to fire-up time.
regards, al |
Details...
When I finished the morning session, I noticed that when I installed the ITB's I didn't get the routing of the intake vacuum hoses correct. The 4,5,6 bank was okay, but the #2 and #3 hoses were routed around the #1 ITB. When I installed the ITB EFI, I had routed all of the 1,2,3 bank vacuum hoses to come to the engine center between the #1 and #2 ITB's.
Fortunately, this ITB system is pretty modular so I just disconnected the throttle linkage and the ITB's on the 1,2,3 bank, lifted the ITB's off their intake port on the heads, moved the vacuum hoses to the correct routing location, and lowered the ITB's back down onto the intake ports and buttoned everything back up. While I was in the garage, I also installed the ignition coil and connected the ground from the engine wiring harness to the rear ignition coil mounting stud. This project has been and continues to be all about the details.... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1720321754.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1720321754.jpg |
Timing Chain Tensioner
I received the replacement timing chain tensioner today, so I installed it and pulled the release pin and again the plunger didn't extend. In desperation, I grabbed a ball peen hammer and struck the tensioner body near the plunger. On about the third successively harder blow, the plunger finally broke free and popped out.
Now with both new chain tensioners installed, I lubed and placed the o-ring on the oil inlet of each tensioner, then installed the chain box covers. I also re-installed the oil temp sensor for the EFI system into the chain box cover for the 1,2,3 bank. Lastly, I installed the oil supply lines to the chain tensioners. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1720472385.jpg |
Engine Mounts and Engine Tin
I got the engine mounts attached to the front of the engine and I installed the engine tin except for the piece that goes on the back of the 4,5,6 bank. I will install that along with the clutch once I get the engine off of the engine stand and remove the mounting yoke which will happen after I receive and install the new exhaust headers I have on order.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1720498911.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1720498911.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1720498911.jpg |
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1720567038.jpg an idea to clean up itb vacuum lines. This setup works very well on my car.
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Exhaust Manifolds
Today I received and installed my new exhaust manifolds - Bursch 1 3/4 inch stainless steel headers. If I get cold, I'll have to put on a jacket....
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1720754383.jpg Next stop, rent an engine hoist and get the engine off the engine stand, unite it with the transaxle and install the power unit into the car. |
Quote:
Looks great. That is a big primary size. Top end will be great. Low end may suffer . Your work looks very nice |
Those look very nice. Do they already come with a bung for the o2/wideband sensor or did you get one welded in?
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Yes, those headers are too large in diameter for that engine. I wouldn't go 1 3/4 on a street engine until the displacement was at least 3.6L.
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Quote:
Yup low end will really suffer. Should be 1-1/2” |
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