CIS to ITB EFI conversion

[dannichols1474]

Today I split the case halves and got my first look at the inside of the crankcase post Ollie's machining services.

Case before shuffle pins install:


Case after shuffle pins install:


Washing the case halves with soapy water per Tim at Ollie's:




Rinse station:


Blow dry with compressed air:


Finish drying in the sun:


Next up: JB Weld oil plugs on case halves and timing chain boxes, replace various external studs that were removed at the machine shop and get the 4,5,6 case half mounted to the engine stand.

[dannichols1474]

The case halves dried quickly in the summer sun, so after a break I got busy and mixed up, then applied JB Weld to the backside of the timing chain cases and to the oil plugs in the crankcase halves.

Equal parts of white and black JB Weld:


Mix until you get a uniform gray color:


Before application of JB Weld:


After application of JB Weld:


Again with the other case half, before application:


After application of JB Weld:


I set the case halves and the timing chain boxes aside to let then cure overnight.

Next, I pulled out the crankshaft and mounted it to the crankshaft stand I bought at Stomski Racing:


Mounted the crankshaft / stand in my workbench vice:


I used outside micrometers (1 -2 inch for the nose bearing and 2 - 3 inch for the rest of the mains and the rod journals) to measure the journal diameters:


After micro-polishing the crankshaft measured in spec:

[dannichols1474]

This morning I got to host a show and tell for an old college buddy and his 5 year old grandson. Wanting to put on a good show, I went thru all of the parts I had brought back from the machine show, got them organized, put the transmission mounting studs back onto the crankcase halves and got the 4,5,6 half of the crankcase attached to the mounting yoke and back onto the engine stand. It was fun showing off clean and shiny new parts - my young guest was wide eyed, he's definitely becoming a car guy. The show and tell was well received and after my guests left, I was inspired to get some work done even if it was 90+ deg in the garage.

Now I'm ready to starting rocking with the engine re-assembly (I am following Wayne D's 911 engine rebuilding book - I am at section 2 of chapter 5)

It's nice to see evidence when you pay to have the crankshaft + flywheel + pressure plate balanced:


Alignment marks to keep the clutch / flywheel assembly balanced when it is re-assembled later in build:


The crankcase finally back on the engine stand:


Crankshaft and connecting rods assembly.

Checking bearing clearance with plastigage.
Because I had measured all of the main and connecting rod journal diameters (see previous post) and everything measured in spec, I chose to sample test the bearing clearance on cylinders 4 and 2. The plastigage results were approximately .002 inch (.05mm) for both, so I felt confident about continuing with assembly of the connecting rods onto the crankshaft.

I cleaned the crankshaft with carburetor cleaner, then IPA.

I worked on one connecting rod at a time - I used a ball peen hammer to knock the old rod bolts out of the rod cap then installed new rod bolts and used new rod nuts. Next I cleaned the rod, rod cap, new rod bolts with carburetor cleaner, and dried with lint free wipes. Then I cleaned the same plus the new rod bearings with IPA and dried them. I installed the bearings into the rod and rod cap, applied a liberal helping of assembly lube onto the bearings and Loctite red onto the rod bolt threads, and installed the rod onto the rod journal of the crankshaft (torque to spec (14.7 ft-lbs for my 2.7 engine) then turn an additional 90 degrees of rotation with a breaker bar - don't use the torque wrench for the 90 degree part or you will wipe out the torque wrench calibration). I installed the rods from front to back (#4 - #1 - #5 - #2 - #6 - #3).

[winders]

When you assemble the engine, please don’t put any Loctite 574 on the main bearing webbing. You absolutely do not need it and all it can do is cause the bores to be out of round.

[dannichols1474]

Scott Winders,

If I am understanding you correctly, then I would put the Loctite 574 sealant only around the periphery of the case - see the photo below. I have highlighted the areas you are suggesting NOT to put Loctite 574. I see your point sealant on the interior webbing isn't necessary to prevent oil leakage, but will the lack of sealant on the interior webbing cause stress between the inner mating surfaces and the periphery mating surfaces? Or is the thickness is of sealant that remains in the mating surfaces negligible once those mating surfaces are torqued down?



I am planning to get up early tomorrow and get the case halves together while it is relatively cool, so this is an urgent decision point.

[winders]

All I am going to say is that the reason some people put 574 on the main web surfaces is to reduce the chances of fretting. You have eliminated that potential problem with the shuffle pins. So there is no reason to use 574 there in your situation.

[dannichols1474]

Got up before dawn and got busy...

Installed the crankshaft assembly and the intermediate shaft / oil pump into the 4,5,6 case half:


Made a decision about case sealing after consulting with others via earlier forum posts - decided on Loctite 574 for the periphery and only applied a small ring around the thru bolt holes for the interior webbing. I got the case halves mated and torqued down.

[dannichols1474]

While I was bolting the the case halves together this morning, I observed that the aluminum washers under the case perimeter nuts were getting very deformed (crushed) when I tightened the case perimeter nuts to the torque spec of 18.4 ft-lbs (25 Nm) per Wayne D's 911 engine rebuilding book, Appendix A.

Close up of aluminum washers - washer on left is one of the original washers that came off the engine when it was disassembled showing mild deformation, the washer in the center is a new unused washer that came in an engine rebuild hardware kit I purchased on PP, and the washer on the right is a washer that came from the PP hardware kit after 1 tightening to spec cycle.





The first thing that came to mind was, "Did I use the wrong torque spec?". So I rechecked the torque spec from Appendix A in Wayne D's book which listed: 18.4 ft-lbs / 25 Nm. Next, I checked an old Haynes manual on the bookshelf which listed: 18 ft-lbs / 2.5 kgf-m. So using new washers, I tried both 18.4 ft-lbs versus 18 ft-lbs on 2 of the case perimeter stud locations - no difference.


Then I thought, "Is my torque wrench out of calibration?", so I pulled out a second 3/8 in drive torque wrench and tried another set of new washers at both 18.4 ft-lbs versus 18 ft-lbs - no difference.

Finally I thought, "Is there something different about the new aluminum washers versus the aluminum washers that came off the engine?", so I pulled out the bag of nuts and washers from the engine disassembly and tried several of the old washers and they performed just as had originally - only minor deformation when torqued to spec (18.4 ft-lbs).

So in conclusion, the new aluminum washers in the hardware kit from PP are made from a softer aluminum alloy than the original aluminum washers and if the new washers allow the case perimeter nuts to maintain their torque setting after being grossly deformed, then I suppose the new aluminum washers are acceptable, even though they don't look so good.

The next step will be to recheck the case perimeter nuts for proper torque - if they are holding torque then okay? If not, I have to find different M8 aluminum washers to replace the washers from the PP hardware kit.

Any thoughts from PP forum readers are welcome and will be appreciated. Thanks.

[PeteKz]

You got Chinesium washers. Where did you get them? I would reuse the old washers before those. Better yet, get the correct ones.

[dannichols1474]

After I sat back and reread my previous post it was clear what I needed to do. I went out to the garage and replaced all of "new" aluminum case perimeter stud washers. I just went one by one and took off the "new" washer and replaced it with an "old" washer that I flipped over so the deformation from the previous use faced the crankcase. Then I reinstalled the nut and tightened to the 18.4 ft-lbs torque spec.

Problem solved.

"New" aluminum washers that were removed after 1 use - don't buy this stuff from Pelican Parts, it's junk....

[PeteKz]

Seriously, contact Pelican about this. They need to know they got a counterfiet supplier and to purge those out of their inventory. Those are dead soft aluminum, instead of the alloy they are supposed to be made from.

[fabracadabra]

Very useful information. Will be a factor in my plan moving forward, thanks.

[dannichols1474]

I sent Pelican Parts a message via their contact page regarding the problems I was having with the 8mm aluminum washers when used with the case perimeter nuts.

Then I looked at the details for the Complete Case Hardware Super Kit I had purchased. Apparently others have had the same problem since 2017. Sounds like these aluminum washers work fine on the valve covers where the torque spec is 6 ft-lbs versus 18.4 ft-lbs for the case perimeter nuts.

Product Details

Porsche Complete Case Hardware Super Kit.

Quantity in Stock: 5
Time to Ship: Ships Tomorrow!
Brand: Pelican Parts
Weight: 10
Associated Part Numbers: PEL REBKT 06, PEL-REBKT-06, PEL.REBKT.06, PELREBKT06

Customer Reviews

Here's what our customers have to say about this part:
(3)
bigred23 June 6th, 2017

Wurth M8 washers suspect

I agree with previous post - Wurth M8 washer quality is suspect. Some got pretty beat up during case perimeter torque procedure. Otherwise, kit seems good; was missing some parts, but Pelican quickly rectified
(1)
JPM January 23rd, 2017

Bad Aluminum Washers

The Wurth brand 8mm valve washers in my kit are junk. They squished when sealing the perimeter case nuts at the recommended torque value and are evidently made of soft aluminum. The other parts seem to be okay.
(4)
Paul I. June 22nd, 2016

Made like a lot easier

'88 911 - This definitely helped to keep my engine rebuild organized. All parts seemed to be of good quality. No issues.

From the Porsche Parts Catalog I downloaded at the Porsche website:

Crankcase perimeter nut and washer:
P/N 900 031 014 30 Washer A 8,4 Qty 22
P/N 900 084 004 03 Hexagon nut M8 Qty 22

These parts numbers are listed for the valve covers as well.

From this experience I would just order the parts from my local Porsche dealer and not mess around "OEM" suppliers at Pelican Parts.

[dannichols1474]

This afternoon I got back out to the garage and completed the assembly of the crankcase. That included re-installing a dozen studs onto the case that were removed for machining work. Then I could install the breather cover, oil thermostat, oil pressure warning light switch, head studs, inboard timing chain ramps, oil pressure relief pistons, the flywheel (still haven't figured out the decoder ring for the asymmetric bolt pattern), and the crankshaft pulley.

When I was done, I was relieved to feel the crankshaft / connecting rod assembly rotating smoothly - small victory in a long process....

[al lkosmal]

Congrats Dan.... feels good to make progress, doesn't it?
regards,
al

[dannichols1474]

Got right back to work this AM and got the piston/ring/cylinders assemblies I prepared several weeks ago installed.

Tim at Ollie's marks the case with the total amount of material removed from the case half depth, in my case 030 for .030 inches - he provided me with a set of .040 inch (1mm) cylinder shims.





Installed cylinder #1 and checked deck height which measured 1.05mm. Then I pulled the cylinder back up far enough to install the c-clip on the left side of the piston and pushed the cylinder back down to mate with the case.





I then installed cylinder #2 and cylinder #3.



I also checked the deck height on cylinder #6, which measured 0.95mm.



As suggested in Wayne D's 911 engine rebuilding book, I used clear plastic wrap to prevent wayward c-clips from falling into the crankcase.



Thank you Al for recommending the Stomski Racing c-clip insertion tool, it worked great - drama free c-clip insertion.

[dannichols1474]

Next, I installed the cylinder tin and then I installed the heads (only finger tight) so I could close up the combustion chambers.



I used a flexible parts grabber to lower the ARP 12 point nuts onto the head studs. I used anti-seize compound on the head studs, washers and nuts as recommended by ARP.





It's really beginning to look like a 911 engine, but now I will slow down the assembly process while I mock-up the cam tower and set cam timing then measure piston to valve clearance on intake and exhaust for cylinder #1 and cylinder #4.

[dannichols1474]

Today I got busy and got the cam towers and chain boxes installed in mock up mode (no sealant between the cam tower and the heads).



Camshaft in 1,2,3 tower rotates freely:



Timing chain box installed on 1,2,3 bank:



Cam tower installed on 4,5,6 bank:



Timing chain box installed on 4,5,6 bank:



A piece of pipe from the tool box holds the timing chain so I can install the outboard chain ramp on the 4,5,6 bank:

[dannichols1474]

I continue mocking up the valve train by installing the chain sprockets and measuring the sprocket alignment - I measured an alignment delta of 0.18mm on the 1,2,3 sprocket with 4 shims and 0.13mm on the 4,5,6 sprocket with 3 shims which as it was upon disassembly (max alignment delta is 0.25mm per Wayne D's 911 engine rebuilding book).

The Stomski Racing cam sprocket alignment fixture made for easy, straight forward measurements by securely positioning a straight edge from the case directly above the intermediate shaft to a point directly above the timing chain sprocket.

I used a digital caliper to measure (via the access port) the depth to the face of the 4,5,6 chain sprocket on the intermediate shaft from the surface of the crankcase where the intermediate shaft cover is fastened (51.48mm). For the 4,5,6 sprocket, this is the target for the distance I measure from the straight edge to the face of the cam sprocket. For the 1,2,3 sprocket, I add 54.80 to the value I measured initially to get a target of 51.48mm + 54.80mm = 106.28mm for the measurement I make from the straight edge to the face of the cam sprocket.

Later engines without the access port are measured to the face of the intermediate shaft and there are a different set of the adders to calculate the measurement target for each cam sprocket.

1,2,3 sprocket torqued to spec for alignment check:



4,5,6 sprocket torqued to spec for alignment check with measurement fixture in place:



Manual chain tensioners are in place in preparation for the camshaft timing procedure:



I finished up this work session by installing 8mm studs for both the intake and the exhaust ports on the heads:

[dannichols1474]

Today I got the camshaft timing set on both cylinder #1 and #4.

The DigiDix from Stomski Racing made it really easy to keep track of crankshaft position:













Camshaft timing on cylinder #1 as installed (woodruff key on cam at 12 o'clock):



Camshaft timing on cylinder #1 set to spec: 5.0 - 5.4mm with 0.1mm valve lash (these cams are WebCam grind #149i/149e - 67-73 Mech Injection)



Camshaft timing on cylinder #4 set to spec.



I found that I had to set the timing initially to the top of the spec - 5.4mm @ TDC, then when I removed my tool (for moving the cam position with the dowel pin removed - a 12mm-1.5 x 40mm bolt with some washers and a nut that I screwed into the end of the camshaft) and replaced the cam bolt and washer and torqued to spec (88 ft-lbs), then rotated the crankshaft 720 degrees (2 revs), the cam timing would settle in at around 5.2mm and would stay steady with additional revs of the crankshaft.