Please critique my garage plans

[MBAtarga]

Good suggestions above - I didn't read all of the details.

Rule 1 - build bigger than you think you need.
Rule 2 - see rule 1.

Go over to the garage journal forum. It's the Pelican Forum equivalent for garages and workshops. Post your plans and you'll get tons of useful advice.

[Old H2S]

I am stuck with a narrow slab 24' long and 14' wide not able to expand it because it is grandfathered in and I live at the beach so concrete is very hard to get approved.
My slab was just thick enough for the 2 post lift but not strong enough from a lack of rebar in the right spots. I cut a 5' wide tapered trench 4' deep because half a load of concrete was the least I could buy and get delivered, please check with your supplier to see what restrictions you will have. So I figured out I could make the trench deeper and more flared out as we went down and drilled rebar into the slab and filled the trench up with more rebar and used long "J" hooks attached around the rebar instead of expansion bolts to hold the 2 post lift in place, this is MUCH safer and stronger than the expansion bolt down type. The trench came in at 25,000 pounds so that is a stable way to hold a 10k lift because I also work on pick up trucks that are 8000 pounds. I have a tall door and a small space so the back end of the 18' trucks sticks out the door when up on the lift. When the garage was empty I pulled in different cars and trucks to get the lift posts in the right spot. I have just walking distance around the cars and used 8' LED's down the side and across the top side of the lift to give me "body shop type straight reflections off the cars for detailing. For benches I had to cantilever them off the walls so no bench legs stick out and get in the way when you are walking around.

I put in 30 windows for winter light.
The stairs are the upper level where my tool boxes go to protect them from flooding.
And yes I know the roof is not straight..I fired that contractor and redid it my way and bolted every board together and braced the crap out of it to hold up to 150 MPH winds here in ground zero for hurricanes and it does not shake or move at 100mph so far.. 130 mph rated big and tall garage doors cost a fortune.

[chrismorse]

I second the idea of a single wide door rather than two. This might require deeper truss joists for a clear span - this will raise the building height a bit too.
Wider, for sure, space permitting.
A toilet for sure, unless your house is very close by.
A utility sink is great for many things.
Texas?? How about AC and insulation.
Bring in more electricity than you think you'll need, lights, refrigerator, (BEER), AC, welder, electric car charger, table saw?? the list goes on.
If you are going to have an air compressor, more electricity. perhaps build an insulated closet to keep the monster from driving you crazy.
When you design the slab, beef up the footing/rebar under the lift posts. (Use a lift with the hydraulics, cables and controls run through the top bar rather than on the floor, which is a pain to clean around, step over, drag tools over.....)
Less windows, more wallspace for cabinets/shelves/tool boards.
Might be worthwhile to have a sit down with your significant other to see what SHE might like to see out there: back up refrige/freezer, space for her hobbies and just possibly STORAGE.
Maybe do a She-Shed too :-)
Maybe make it a bit bigger, with an outside accessible door for mowers, yard equipment, bikes, that way they don't shed dirt and grass in Your space.
chris

[mepstein]

I actually removed the windows from my workshop (on the main floor) when I replaced the siding. I wanted to maximize wall space, increase security, maximize insulation, cut costs and not have to deal with the sun shining in my face. It's much easier to get even lighting with led's than windows.

[Gonbad]

I have a detached 2 car garage and a third space that is attached. I will be working on my 911 in that third space.

[Jgordon]

So, it seems like the consensus is that I should go narrower.

In all seriousness, I appreciate the ideas.

A few points which might help steer the conversation:

I have less than half an acre total on which to enact my dreams. .39 acres to be exact.

The house itself is ~2,600 square feet. While I have fantasies about the 25 car garage with an apartment above it, the reality is that I don't want to dwarf my house.

We are tearing down the existing 2-car garage, with a ceiling height of about 5'10", to put this in.

This thing could be 1/4 the size, and it would still be the nicest garage I've ever owned / worked in. I'm used to cracked concrete and a piece of cardboard as a creeper.

The lot is in suburban Dallas, in a conservation district (Think HOA with the power of government). I have:
- Height restrictions
- Lot coverage restrictions
- Style restrictions (adding peaks to the dormers to make them more in keeping with the neighborhood style)
- Living space restrictions
- Wife restrictions
- Restriction restrictions...

- I'm married to a very understanding and supportive wife, but she has limits.

- Using the wide side for entry is out. A pass-through is out.

- We have a sloped corner lot, so we added a retaining wall to create two levels. The higher level is to the east, where the garage is located. Between the garage and the retaining wall, we need a path (no chewing into the lawn space with the path, I'm told).

- To the north of the garage I have utility access to property, pool equipment, generator, and am supposed to provide the kid with a jungle gym, to then be replaced by a garden with some raised planting beds.

- Need windows on the west side to break up the view. Otherwise we'd have a giant brick monolith looming over our lawn and pool area (see below)

- That said, I'm going to shrink the windows into two tighter groups of three, so I'll have space on either end and between them for shelving / storage.

- great point about lifting the windows above workbench height.

- After talking with the GC about cost of masonry these days, and talking to the conservation district about style restrictions, we are likely going with hardy siding to be more "tudor" and to keep costs down.

- Shop sink is in the works. Architect didn't include it in this round.

- I'll ask how wide we can go with lot coverage and other constraints. This might end up being a 3-car garage with workshop space, and room for a fourth car in a pinch (hail, vacation, etc)

- The cars in question are:
- 89 Porsche 911 (lowered)
- 03 BMW 540 Wagon (lowered)
- 85 Land Cruiser FJ60 (lifted)
- Wife's soccer mobile (Hyundai Santa Fe) - This doesn't get a spot in the garage.

- I had anticipated (or wanted) a 2-post lift. I was thinking of a Rotary.
- https://rotarylift.com/product/spoa10-av/

I think this might help:

[RDM]

What a project! I have my own on GJ but not getting much feedback.

The site plan is helpful. Any reason you can't turn the garage 90 degrees so the long side faces the driveway? That would make car access and storage and work space all so much easier!

[Jgordon]

Originally Posted by RDM

What a project! I have my own on GJ but not getting much feedback.

The site plan is helpful. Any reason you can't turn the garage 90 degrees so the long side faces the driveway? That would make car access and storage and work space all so much easier!

Thanks. That is the existing garage. New garage will be almost twice as long. Can't turn it as I'm limited by a setback on the east and the path / retaining wall / lower lawn on the west. I'm fine stacking cars; just looking to maximize the space itself.

[Jgordon]

Couldn't figure out how to edit the image in the original site layout post. Here's another showing the path and the anticipated garage size.

[Marwil]

I'm breaking ground on my Garage Mahal next week. I need to be able to accommodate not only my Targa but a Volks daily driver and occasionally a Ford Transit 350 high roof that we're converting into a camper van. I also wanted enough space to be able to work on another P car as a project. I live on a beautiful maple forested bobsled run (19% grade) and have to set the garage into the slope just before the setback limit. My municipality insisted on surveyor placement and engineer approved foundation plans - for good reason given my circumstances. I've included jpegs of some of the plans below.

I intend to install a lift (I have a used Mohawk A-7) but may consider the Atlas FM9SL as the van weighs in at 7500 lbs which is 500 over the A-7's rated capacity. The Atlas, though, is rated at 9000 lbs and has the advantage of no posts to contend with. Any reflections on the lift choice would be appreciated.

Floor Plan


Right Elevation Cross-section


Front Elevation


Left Elevation

[Jgordon]

Originally Posted by Marwil

I'm breaking ground on my Garage Mahal next week. I need to be able to accommodate not only my Targa but a Volks daily driver and occasionally a Ford Transit 350 high roof that we're converting into a camper van.

Hey man. Looks beautiful, and happy to chat about it on another thread, but trying to keep this one focused on mine as I'm consolidating ideas and moving forward to a build shortly. Thanks.

[88911coupe]

This is fascinating to follow, we are also in the Dallas area (UP) and planning a renovation. We are severely restricted on what we can do with the existing garage. Sounds like you may be in East Dallas. I am hoping to just make things more efficient as far as space usage. That's why I've gone back to Jack Olsen's garage so often for reference. I'd love to have something like I've seen done by others, but just not an option.

[3rd_gear_Ted]

Having a service pit is also known as a permanently lifted hoist. It has a hoist to lift out stuff.

They are good for boat hull, car trailer, tractor, golf cart and UTV underside access too.

At my AZ home garage its the coolest spot on the property.

[Old H2S]

MARWIL, Get a 10k lift. The 9k from all the MFGs are thinner, smaller welds, lighter duty. The brand you buy means little. A Chinese lift that is ALM certified is a beefier built lift than an American one that is not.

[Marwil]

Thanks for the feedback H2S - info I wasn't aware of.

[Marwil]

@Jgordon - if there is any way to go wider I would do so. As others have noted a two post lift is going to chew through usable width very rapidly and restricted the usability of the other side. If you have to stick to 20' then you could consider a lift like the Atlas FM9SL - it is flush with the floor, you can drive over it and can lift 71.5".

[PeteKz]

One other suggestion: Do not use drywall on the inside walls of the garage. Use plywood. Inexpensive CDX will do. Drywall will get beat up and broken, and you can't screw hooks, shelves, etc. directly into it. Plywood is much more durable and stronger for mounting stuff.

[lateapex911]

-Wider because of doors and jack handles. Every foot counts.
-Consider putting frosting film on the windows and then you can not worry about blocking them, seeing as you need them architecturally.

-Every window is $500 or more, where the wood and siding and insulation are far less. Spend the $ on sq footage.
-Cabinets instead of shelves. SO much neater and easier to clean. Ikea has cheap but actually nice ones if $$ is an issue.
-Compressor in the attic, Make a room around it, insulate with Rockul around and below. you'll thank me from the bottom of your ears
-Plumb the compressor down to a hose reel or two.
-Outlets: Quads not duplexes. Run TWO circuits to each quad box. Use white and grey outlets to denote which circuit they are on. 20A of course.
-Think about what you like to do in the shop. Plan around that.
-Can't have enough counter/bench space.
-I like stainless boxes under counters for tool storage that is mostly permanent, and a rolling tall box that goes to the car I'm working on. More efficient.
-A devoted space to organized nut and bolt storage.
-A real closet for engine hoists and jacks and brooms and oil drain cans and all the large stuff that you don't want shoved here and there. It's an eyesore.
- Wire for sound.
- Hang a flatscreen at one end.
-If you like being out there, maybe do a 5.1 surround system for F1 etc.
-Since fl 2 is storage, maybe a dumbwaiter (Or just a section of floor that lowers on a pulley system) that can be lowered helps heavy parts go upstairs .
-Plumbing might be a zoning no no, but if possible, yes, a bathroom/

Random thoughts

[49willard]

Originally Posted by Jgordon

Couldn't figure out how to edit the image in the original site layout post. Here's another showing the path and the anticipated garage size.

Width is so important that I would create a new path across the lawn area, move a house door if that is needed and use ALL of the available width to the retaining wall.
I have built 2 garage/shops over the years and 20 ft width works for storage not workshop/shelves etc, just my opinion!

[Showdown]

What about making the garage bigger and moving the path into the lawn and through the retaining wall to the pool. Yes, there will be a jog from the house exit but as it’s not a primary entryway it won’t be all that intrusive. Alternatively if you aren’t wed to the rectilinear path, you could have a winding or meandering natural stone path through some plantings that goes from the house to the pool… not sure how we’d you are to having a lawn vs a garden…

What’s the area in yellow and can you use that area for a garage too? Is it a slab or lawn that you could access with a second overhead door at the back of the garage thus giving you a ‘shotgun’ or full pass through garage?



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk