Need some advice on engine care

[colinsco]

This winter I committed to getting to know my car a little better mechanically and to addressing a couple of issues. Last week I pulled both axles to address a CV problem, and today I pulled the spark plugs and the rocker covers: I had the valves adjusted about a year ago but there remains a steady clacking so I want to adjust those. From our host I have got a replacement distributor cap, rotor, plugs, silicone valve cover gaskets, two new axles and the bits and bobs to correctly reinstall them, and rebuild kits for the front calipers. I have spent many hours pouring over these forums studying up on the CV/axle question (thanks to Grady for his feedback some time ago), and also the threads on valve adjustments. Now I need some advice. After about 1 1/2 hours struggling to get the rockers on number one adjusted I came to the conclusion that there was a real reason I paid so much for someone else to do it! Is it really possible to adjust the valves with the motor in, or would I be assured of a better job if I pull the motor? (Man, the big ole V8's I played with in my youth were a lot simpler!) I developed a good oil leak during track day at Pacific Raceways last summer that I would like to clean up, and I suspect that the engine may need some top-end work after 106K miles but I am not ready to do thi$ yet. Maybe I am just working up the courage to pull the engine, and I guess if I do it once to adjust the valves and clean the oil messes I could pull it again if I need to do some more serious work. Number two plug is a real mess but the other plugs look good. I am also confused by the gap on my plugs: they are all at .035 but the manual says .028. Which is correct? Sorry for the long winded request but I love this car and I want to treat it right (and I want to drive it again soon!). Summary: 1)can I adjust valves properly with engine in? 2)what is the correct gap for a '88 3.2? 3)why is my number two plug such a mess? Thanks in advance.

[aigel]

You are burning oil on #2. It can come from the valves or the piston side. I'd run a leak down compression test to make sure you don't have a bad cylinder but just a worn valve guide. You should see some oil consumption that is out of the normal range as well.

The valves can be adjusted correctly with the engine in the car - absolutely. There are a million threads on this board about valve adjusts. On the 3.2 in a Carrera it helps to get all the accessories out of the way and jack it up nicely. Also, you will want the Porsche tool.

.028 or .032 - that's almost too close to measure. I'd go with the smaller gap - especially with the oil you burn, you want a sure spark to ignite it.

I am afraid to tell you, but unless you don't drive this car much, you are in for a top end. Only #1 and #3 look like what I'd call normal, everyone else is burning oil.

George

[Grady Clay]

colinsco,

Ok, Some basics:

Clearly you need new plugs. The #2 is a mess. I wouldn’t do anything about adjusting the valves other than verify that you have clearance until after you do an “Italian tune-up” and check the cranking compression and cylinder leakage.

All the other seem to be normal maintenance and insure everything is correct.

Remember new Schnorr washers and re-torque the CV joint bolts.



One of the real “arts” of owing these age 911s is being able to Remove & Replace (R&R) the engine and transmission quickly and effectively. With the correct tools and equipment and some practice, anyone with a macadam of skill should be able to do this in a day. That includes some serious work like replacing a clutch, fixing oil leaks and even re-gearing the transmission.

For DIY at home the big issue is parts availability. Most of the time you don’t know exactly what you need until you have things disassembled. There are two choices; have everything in stock or wait a day or two and order from Pelican.

There are some things that I think every DIY Pelican should stock. Those are; maintenance parts, tune-up parts, oil leak repair parts, brake maintenance parts and engine-transmission R&R parts. With care almost everything has a shelf life far longer than your 911.

Most of these parts you are going to need sooner or later. Why not have them “in stock” and avoid Priority Air Shipment?

To R&R your engine & trans should be an easy 2-3 hour process. It takes two floor jacks, some jack stands, the correct hand and air tools and the necessary replacement parts. Having available the less usual parts (mostly nuts & bolts) allows you to not be stymied.

For a non-A/C ’65-’89 911, this can be less than 15 minutes removing and an hour installing. Practice, Practice, Practice.

In the fall ’06, John Cramer posted a list for early 911s. The same can be for every year.

Even a rank amateur can accomplish this for the first time in a weekend or two.

Sure, you can adjust valves, torque rockers, torque heads, check cam timing and more with the engine installed. Given how easy it is to remove the drive train and how much better the access is (particularly for DIY amateur), there shouldn’t be a question.

Best,
Grady