new '66 911 project - Page 2

304065 · 01-14-2008, 12:07 PM

Don,

Greetings from a fellow '66 owner. I have a few friends in Dexter, I went to school right down the road (twice).

Nice looking project. Race or street?

A few ideas.

Since you're going to the trouble of using a factory oil tank, be sure to send it to FABCAR to have it baffled before you put it in. On sticky tires, when you hit the brakes all the oil sloshes away from the oil-out location in the tank (which is at the REAR of the tank) causing the pressure pump to suck air, not good. The FABCAR mod is not cheap but highly recommended if Hoosiers are in your future.

Polybronze the way to go, I have Chuck's on my race car. Also check out his offerings for the SWB cars, the quick change spring plates are also offered for the SWB.

I would START with 22/28 and see if you don't like them for the street.

For a mild 2,4 the engine cooler will probably be adequate, once you get beyond about 165 horsepower external cooling should be used.

A set of 911R taillamps would set it off nicely. The mesh for the grill was the subject of a long thread here. I would stick with the fiberglass 911R spoiler with the foglamp openings. Keep the battery where it was, see my thread on SWB batteries. Nothing wrong with a big heavy sonneschein up front to keep the polar moment high, the car will handle better and be safer besides.

I would use Fuchs 15x6" with 205 tires, search for "Pfake Pfuchs" for a modern powdercoat replica of the '67S "triangle" pattern on flat sixes with powdercoat. Only the cognoscenti know they are different.

Search under Grady Clay for the recommended modifications to the torsion bar tube, which include internal rustproofing and the drilling of water drain holes.

Since originality is no longer, I would seriously consider an entire front suspension from a later car. The early SWB suspension has a different ball joint and the adjustability is somewhat limited. I can't see the other side of the trunk slam panel, but if it has bumps on it, you may have non-adjustable strut towers up front. If this is the case, something needs to be done otherwise you will only be able to run factory settings suitable for a 165-series tire! If I were doing a '66 as a hot rod I'd use Smartracing adjustable camber boxes but this requires surgery and welding.

Good luck!

Tim K · 12:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Long Nose

I notice that your front and rear signal light housings were in the car during the paint job. Is that standard? Is there a reason you left them in for painting?

IIRC, that's one of the differences btw the the swb and lwb cars. (plus the wheel arches I think). Anyone?

Tim

304065 · 01-14-2008, 01:31 PM

For an SWB car the housings are integral with the lamps. It's only in the LWB cars where the housings are separate.

The differences between SWB and LWB are many, not the least of which is the rear wheelarch; the SWB has no flares, the horngrills are larger and the bumpers are smaller.

dondarnell · 01-14-2008, 02:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Long Nose

I notice that your front and rear signal light housings were in the car during the paint job. Is that standard? Is there a reason you left them in for painting?

Those are just the buckets. The housings have been powdercoated black.

dondarnell · 01-14-2008, 03:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by john_cramer

Don,

Greetings from a fellow '66 owner. I have a few friends in Dexter, I went to school right down the road (twice).

Nice looking project. Race or street?

A few ideas.

Since you're going to the trouble of using a factory oil tank, be sure to send it to FABCAR to have it baffled before you put it in. On sticky tires, when you hit the brakes all the oil sloshes away from the oil-out location in the tank (which is at the REAR of the tank) causing the pressure pump to suck air, not good. The FABCAR mod is not cheap but highly recommended if Hoosiers are in your future.

Polybronze the way to go, I have Chuck's on my race car. Also check out his offerings for the SWB cars, the quick change spring plates are also offered for the SWB.

I would START with 22/28 and see if you don't like them for the street.

For a mild 2,4 the engine cooler will probably be adequate, once you get beyond about 165 horsepower external cooling should be used.

A set of 911R taillamps would set it off nicely. The mesh for the grill was the subject of a long thread here. I would stick with the fiberglass 911R spoiler with the foglamp openings. Keep the battery where it was, see my thread on SWB batteries. Nothing wrong with a big heavy sonneschein up front to keep the polar moment high, the car will handle better and be safer besides.

I would use Fuchs 15x6" with 205 tires, search for "Pfake Pfuchs" for a modern powdercoat replica of the '67S "triangle" pattern on flat sixes with powdercoat. Only the cognoscenti know they are different.

Search under Grady Clay for the recommended modifications to the torsion bar tube, which include internal rustproofing and the drilling of water drain holes.

Since originality is no longer, I would seriously consider an entire front suspension from a later car. The early SWB suspension has a different ball joint and the adjustability is somewhat limited. I can't see the other side of the trunk slam panel, but if it has bumps on it, you may have non-adjustable strut towers up front. If this is the case, something needs to be done otherwise you will only be able to run factory settings suitable for a 165-series tire! If I were doing a '66 as a hot rod I'd use Smartracing adjustable camber boxes but this requires surgery and welding.

Good luck!

Thanks for the great info. I have those torsion bars, and the 15x6 fuchs (real ones). My track car is a 951, but I may use this car for autocross or DE.

Regarding your last comment abou the front suspension. With the 15x6's and 205 rubber, will the factory settings be acceptable for the street and light track?

Long Nose · 01-15-2008, 08:49 AM

Interesting about the lights being integral with the body on the SWB cars - learn something new every day.

One more question - did you paint it with the front fenders on or off? What do you do with that rubber seal at the top of the fender and at the bottom of the windsheild cowling during painting? Are you supposed to take it out and replace it after painting?

dondarnell · 01-15-2008, 08:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Long Nose

Interesting about the lights being integral with the body on the SWB cars - learn something new every day.

One more question - did you paint it with the front fenders on or off? What do you do with that rubber seal at the top of the fender and at the bottom of the windsheild cowling during painting? Are you supposed to take it out and replace it after painting?

The fenders and hood were painted off the car. The small rubber bits at the cowling are new (as is very other piece of rubber on the car), and are installed after painting.

304065 · 01-15-2008, 09:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dondarnell

Thanks for the great info. I have those torsion bars, and the 15x6 fuchs (real ones). My track car is a 951, but I may use this car for autocross or DE.

Regarding your last comment abou the front suspension. With the 15x6's and 205 rubber, will the factory settings be acceptable for the street and light track?

Don, only the finish on the Fuchs I'm referring to is not original--they are real flat sixes made to look like deep four-and-a-halfs, which are period correct for a'67S.

I don't have my little white book handy but my recollection is the original alignment settings for the non-adjustable cars were like zero degrees of camber and five and a half of caster. . . not very good for the track.

Here's an old thread.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=262654&highlight=factory+alignment+settings

dondarnell · 01-17-2008, 09:41 PM

Hmm, my car has "the recessed hex, cap-screw mounts on each shock tower ....with large-ish holes to accommodate camber adjustments" (took that language from the thread you referenced). I assume that there are the adjustable type.

01sport · 01-18-2008, 08:25 AM

Don,
I like your car/project. This is exactly what I would like to do. How long do you think it will take you?
Keep us updated.
Jeff

dondarnell · 01-18-2008, 08:12 PM

Hey Jeff,

I am hoping to have it completed by this fall. It comes home very soon, first suspension, then electrical, then fuel, then drive train, then interior. I think the wiring will be the longest - given the mods, and my lack of experience and education in this regard.

Matt Smith · 01-18-2008, 08:53 PM

Nice project Don- but why are you blacking out the chrome on a '66 car? !!

dondarnell · 01-18-2008, 09:25 PM

Why black out the chrome on a '66? Good question. Wish I really knew. My wife made a terrible face when I said that I was either having it rechromed or powdercoated a near chrome or silver. That and Mexico blue would have had black trim, not chrome. Plus, this car won't be any where near original. Not the bumpers, headllights, interior or motor. The only thing I am leaving alone is the slab sided fenders, and only that because I like the look. Finally, I am not a fan of chrome. My '08 Caddy CTS4 has too much chrome for me.