Windshield installed

[dan88911]

Decided this wasn't a projected I wanted to tackle. However I want to put in a good word for EASY (easy.com)
4060 Harlan St.
Emeryville, CA 94608

Hours:
Monday through Friday, 9 am to 5 pm
Alternate Saturday's, 9am-1pm

Tel: 510.653.3279
Fax: 510.653.3178

Email: info@easypor.com

and Frank's of Berkeley (franksofberkeley.com) | 1935 Addison Street, Berkeley, CA 94704 | 510.548.1434 | email: info@franksofberkeley.com
Jim at EASY acquired the windshield for me and recommended Bob at FRANK'S for the installation.They are a couple of real nice guys who have been in the business for awhile it was a pleasure doing business with them.

[MichaelN]

Thanks for the tip. Mind if I ask about the cost? I'm in the East Bay too and have been thinking of getting this done.

[1990C4S]

It really isn't very hard. I did mine yesterday. Under an hour.

[Gunter]

Did the search and read the chapter in Wayne's 101.

But.........................not clear on the placement of the cord (s)

I understand the cord is started from the center bottom of the seal allowing a 6-8" extra, going all the way around in the groove and ending up again on the bottom allowing again extra length to pull on later?

So, when you place the window/seal on the metal edge in the opening, how do you keep the ends of the cord on the bottom in place so they're accessible later from the inside?

Wayne's book on page 194 mentions a diagram but there is no diagram showing the placement of the cord (s)

How do?

[gsmith660]

I paid 50 bucks to a window installer to come to my house install the new alu. trim and then install the windshield and they pumped silcon in until it came out the edges so I know I wont have the rust problem later I had when I took it out.

[snbush67]

Originally Posted by dan88911

Decided this wasn't a projected I wanted to tackle.

You get 0 man points for this.

[1990C4S]

1. If you have the antenna in the windshield mark the centre wire location relative to the body before removing the windshield, as a reference point for re-installing. Up down on the windshield will set itself, side-to-side needs to be done right.

2. I put some black silicone in each corner, 4" or 6" in each direction out from the corner.

3. Put some dish soap on the seal and on the frame, but not in the siliconed areas.

4. Run a string from the bottom right all the way around, leaving about 24" extra on each end.

5. Do the same again with a second string.

6. Put the windshield onto the car, make sure it is centred. INSERT THE ANTENNA LEAD INTO THE DASH NOW.

7. Lay the strings on the dash.

8. Push the windshield in gently at the bottom first. then up the side and across the top. (a helper is required) Pull either string across the bottom, allowing the seal to flip over the steel edge of the window frame.

9. Don't allow the first string to pull the second string out.

10. Now work your way up the two sides with the two strings starting at the bottom corner. Go 6" at a time up each side and keep the progress close on each side.

11. Work your way across the top from each corner to the middle, pushing the window seal in from the outside as you move across the windshield.

12. You might have to flip the outer seal from time to time, the outer edge can get trapped inside the opening, it should lay on the outside of the window frame. Use a soft thin plastic spatula and work your way along.

13. After making sure the outer seal is in place remove the rest of the string as a 'second chance' to seat the seal properly across the top and down the side.

[kozmo]

The installation: install new weather-strip/gasket to the w/s, apply silicone grease to the groove where the aluminum trim goes and press that into place fully and carefully - you can bend it easily. Use DOW 111 compound which is a silicone grease [from McMaster-Carr] on the w/s and the windshield opening [after you have removed all the foreign stuff there].

Using a 1/8 nylon cord stuffed into the groove where the pinch weld will go, cross over at the bottom and with two assistants set the w/s into place at the bottom. This is where the experience counts. Someone has to know where to push, how much to push and slap and the inside guy has to be the cord puller and verbal guide. Pull the cord ends evenly while your assistants push and slap to keep it going where it's supposed to go. Pull the cord all the way around until they meet at the top.

Do not use any silicone adhesive anywhere on the gasket/trim...once you get the w/s seated you can "stretch" the oem w/s gasket to fit the corner gaps.

[1990C4S]

Originally Posted by kozmo

Do not use any silicone adhesive anywhere on the gasket/trim...once you get the w/s seated you can "stretch" the oem w/s gasket to fit the corner gaps.

This does not apply if you are converting to the 'newer seal' (no trim) or have a 964/993. In those cases I think you would be wise to use some silicone.

Personally, I think you should use silicane regardless, but technically it isn't required. Better to have some goop extra unseen goop than a leak IMO.

[gsmith660]

Originally Posted by kozmo

Do not use any silicone adhesive anywhere on the gasket/trim...once you get the w/s seated you can "stretch" the oem w/s gasket to fit the corner gaps.

All the windshield guys I have talked to disagree, the rust that is showing up in the lower corners in a lot of older cars would indicate water is getting in there and sitting with no way to drain out the amount of silt that was in this area when I popped out my windshield that had no sealant on the outside of the seal would bear that out. How does rubber stretch to fill a void? I would think it would seek its original shape.

[1990C4S]

The theory is that the metal trim can be bent/shaped the force the rubber out and create a proper seal. I don't buy it. And I have the rust repairs to show it.

I really don't see any harm in silicone, the seal can't be re-used anyhow.

[gsmith660]

Originally Posted by 1990C4S

The theory is that the metal trim can be bent/shaped the force the rubber out and create a proper seal. I don't buy it. And I have the rust repairs to show it.

I really don't see any harm in silicone, the seal can't be re-used anyhow.

I dont buy it either the guys that installed my windshield tried just that and it didn't go and these guys are experienced.

[dan88911]

Originally Posted by MichaelN

Thanks for the tip. Mind if I ask about the cost? I'm in the East Bay too and have been thinking of getting this done.

Cost about $450.00 for the windshield. Install $180.00. I have read the post in the forum have wayne's book.

[dan88911]

Originally Posted by snbush67

You get 0 man points for this.

How many man points do I get for removing and replacing the notorious fuel line on the 3.2? Just 2 years in on this baby. I also did the headlight kit and the clear bra myself. Still working on the door lock, I replaced the switch in the door trim, but I got to go back in its still not working right. She came with the crack in the windshield. As I said not something I wanted to tackle.

[Gunter]

Originally Posted by 1990C4S

4. Run a string from the bottom right all the way around, leaving about 24" extra on each end.

5. Do the same again with a second string.

7. Lay the strings on the dash.

Instead of using 2 separate strings, why not use just a long one and go around twice?

That way one would only have 2 string-ends on the inside dash instead of 4 but still have the possibility of a second chance to go around another time if needed.

What am I missing?

[snbush67]

Originally Posted by dan88911

How many man points do I get for removing and replacing the notorious fuel line on the 3.2? Just 2 years in on this baby. I also did the headlight kit and the clear bra myself. Still working on the door lock, I replaced the switch in the door trim, but I got to go back in its still not working right. She came with the crack in the windshield. As I said not something I wanted to tackle.

Perhaps we should assign man points for certain tasks, or better yet so as not to be gender exclusive we could use Pelican Points, I would think a 911 windshield install would gain about 25 Pelican points, Im not sure about the fuel line replacement, need more information, dont you just disconnect and replace it? But each Project could be out of a scale to 100.

Other sites have interactive point systems, so you can gauge someones actual technical expertise and based upon there rating and points versus their post count.

It would be kind of neat to see a rating under someones avatar.

[snbush67]

Originally Posted by Gunter

Instead of using 2 separate strings, why not use just a long one and go around twice?

That way one would only have 2 string-ends on the inside dash instead of 4 but still have the possibility of a second chance to go around another time if needed.

What am I missing?

I used one string and went around twice, however, two strings would give you an advantage.

If you were on the first string and as you were sealing a section and the seal popped back out in a place you could immediately grab the second string and go back over that area vs. having to go all the way around before getting to your second try with the one string method.

You could always wrap one string twice and then add a single string then you would have the best of both worlds.

[w21055]

Originally Posted by Gunter

Instead of using 2 separate strings, why not use just a long one and go around twice?

That way one would only have 2 string-ends on the inside dash instead of 4 but still have the possibility of a second chance to go around another time if needed.

What am I missing?

Gunter, that is how I do it, wrap it twice just in case. After you have done one or four, it is not intimidating at all.


Phillip

[1990C4S]

Originally Posted by Gunter

What am I missing?

Probably nothing, but I like to be able to reverse direction as I work through the job. Don't imagine it really matters.