That's a sick engine stand! Makes for much easier base tuning and prolly some easy EFI adjustments before hitting the dyno.

Swapping jets and balancing while in the car can be a pain in the butt. No more sore backs and knees with that thing LOL

Brian,

I am very interested in your gas tank from the earlier pages. Was that the std tank that you patched the old fill neck and added the short center fill or is it aftermarket/custom?

Also is your front bumper w/o bumperettes stock or fiberglass?

Thanks.

The tank is a custom build - I modified an SC tank and added the center fill. There was a lot of fiberglass on the car prior to the restoration, all steel now.:D

Painting the belly
 

Blee - I have been looking at pictures of Bahama Yellow for a year now and have grown to LOVE the color. I stumbled upon this thread and was thrilled to see you did a COLOR-CHANGE to Bahama Yellow. I want to also do a color-change to BY.

1 - So did you remove the original paint from the belly / underside of the chassis? What was that process like?
2 - Did you have to scrap off the rubber spray guard that the factory applied on the belly?
3 - Did you have to spray BY over any of the original color on any part of the chassis? If yes, do you have any regrets doing so? I'm OCD and am afraid I'll always know some of the original color is under the fresh BY paint.
4 - Is your paint single or two stage (base with clear)?

Thank you and what a great job you did!

Yup, no regrets choosing the Bahama Yellow. The original color - Burgundy, was not an option. Everything was stripped, Epoxy coated and painted. Under the fenders, engine compartment, under the front hood, and interior. The only area that was not stripped was the belly, because surprisingly, it was in good shape. And no, there was no factory paint found under some of the chipped undercoating. I ground down the areas, cleaned, and resprayed undercoating. Stripping under the fenders was fun, so I would imagine it would be just as fun stripping the belly. It's a messy and labor intensive process as grinding it off was the only effective method.

The only area on the car with traces of original paint was under the dash pad. I intentionally left that alone because the initials scribbled by factory Quality Control (?) was still visible. I added my initials too :).

It was definitely worth the extra effort to spray the car inside and out - leaves so much options as to how much BY you want to leave exposed. The car was sprayed with single-stage Glasurit to mirror the factory process. Good luck with your project and thanks for the compliment. Cheers!

The 2-liter has found a new home in Massachusetts - rightfully back into a 914-6! May it live long, strong, and leak-free.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/wat6.gif

Brian,

Welcome back to the realm of the true unsung Porsche sports car. What it may lack in styling, is more than made up in handling the corners. But then again am preaching to the choir. Look forward to seeing it. Congratulations on the sale. What a fine ride.

Next project...
Three-liter, circa 1978, ROW version.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1541122343.jpg

So, I have a neighbor whom we call "chief" because he used to be the Chief Engineer on a boat before retiring. The thing is, he knows how to make things, make anything, to keep the boat running I guess. The cool thing is you see, he's got this shop, with lathes, mills, presses, and everything else to build a . . . heck, a tank if you wanted! He's always looking for new projects, so I got him to do this. . . ah-hem, take a stab at opening up the ports of my heads. :eek:

He first locates the center of the hole using a multi-angle thingamagig, locks it in with digital - stuff, and then let's it rip!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1541387338.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1541387338.jpg

Link or contact please

You can get them here in UK Wheel nuts - Stuttgart Classica

Jim Tidwell
jtidwell@speakeasy.net

Ian... GBP 225,- hm... maybe...

thanks!

The price of Ti! It will be interesting to see the US prices?

In the meantime, these came back from Millennium Technologies:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1541625777.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1541625777.JPG

Pretty stoked with the results.
Re-plated & honed to match the new JE Pistons.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1541625777.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1541625777.JPG

Nice. Can't wait to see this motor go together.

Are those 10 to 1 pistons?

10.5:1 ;)

Looks like fun! I need to do the same to a set of 3.0L heads but mine are the late SC small port heads. What port size are you opening up to?

From the picture it almost looks like your neighbor was able to taper his bore a bit near the bottom, how much port matching will you have to do after he bores the port entry to size?

Looking forward to following the rest of the motor build. Thanks as always for sharing!

What size did you open up the cylinders to? What are your plans for the center fill tank? Will you be going through the hood? Do you have the dimensions on the tank where the center fill went in?

Thanks

David

Funny you should mention - since the motor is a '78 ROW, I too thought it would have the bigger 39mm intake ports - wrong. When I took the motor apart, I saw that the original heads were gone and had been replaced with '83 heads for whatever reason.

Yup, I got lucky. Chief found a tapered bit in his shop that matched the opening so it saved me from a bunch of additional hand massaging.

The thought of my PMO intake manifolds with 42mm openings mating against a 34mm head just didn't seem right, so I opened them up to match the PMOs. I don't have the tools nor the skill to port them all the way through like the $$ pros so I just massaged the taper to make the transition smoother. It's definitely not a full-on 42mm port job, but now the ports match and there is no longer a "8mm lip" for the air to hit - I'm hoping it'll improve the flow.
Do you think it’ll work Jonny?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1541650923.jpghttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1541650923.jpg

No sense in going half-way. Hit the exhaust ports too so they now match the headers.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1541652229.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1541652229.jpg

I saw that tapered bit and wondered if he made it, or turned it down to fit.

Your "blend" job will be fine. And for sure a huge improvement over an 8mm miss-match!

42mm is a pretty big port, but you have to work with what you have, and matching to the manifolds was probably the right move.

As always, thanks for sharing. It's great to see people DIY'ing stuff like this.

Case cleaning is done.

From this -
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1544400315.JPG

To this!
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1544399346.jpg
A journey in itself! De-greased, cycled through the parts washer, vapor blasted, then ultrasonic tank. Oxidation on the alloy case from sitting so long was ug-ly.
It's now cleaner than new!

One of the oil squirters also gave me some heartache. It wasn't spraying as clean as the other five so had to let it soak for a good month. Was just about to get it replaced, then after another go with soaking, it finally opened up! Wanted to avoid having to replace it if at all possible.
Happy to report that all six are now spraying the same pattern.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1544399346.jpg

Thanks to this handy Stomski tool.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1544399346.jpg

Replaced all the broken Dilivar head studs too. Installation of the new steel studs was a breeze with this handy tool made by John Walker - thanks JW!
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1544399346.jpg

...and just for fun
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1544399346.jpg

Might need that tool back in a week or so.

Tool returned.

Heads are done.

Twin plugged, Aasco hardware, new intake valves, guides, bushings, re-faced, & further massaged by Ollie's (They refused to send them back w/o more massaging!)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1544994543.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1544994543.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1544994543.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1544994543.jpg

Target = '74 RSR spec: 2994 cc; 95x70.4; 10.5:1; Valves: 49/41.5; Ports: 42/42.
Fingers crossed to reaching 315 HP/ 313 TQ

What cam do you intend on running? 313lbs torque won’t be possible but over 300bhp should of you run at least a DC70-80 cam. You’ll need much better rods to spin it as high as it needs to go. I’ve built two 2.8LS engines on 7r cases now using DC65 cams, 39mm and 38mm ports, twin plug with high compression, better rods, and both make about 270-280. Idle is a bit rough but street manners are otherwise fine. For a road engine and 10.5:1 static cpr, DC80 is really pushing it as it’s basically a race cam and IMO that cam needs 11:1+ static cpr.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1545103542.jpg

Should have got the DC70s! I'll look into it. Thanks for the recommendation lvporschepilot.

No no, you will be super pleased with DC60s. Fabulous driving cams with 10.5:1 cpr. You will not be disappointed with that engine. Stock con rods will be a weak point so just be careful. Love your work in this thread btw!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1548815372.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1548817293.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1548818084.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1548817860.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1548818004.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1548818389.jpg

my goodness.
I just read this start to finish and I don't have the words to express how impressed I am.
Wow.

How about, You are a god.

Rick - you're making me feel warm & fuzzy. Cut it out!

Looking very good Brian.

regards,
al

Brian, with the temps dropping, you can use the warm of all your fuzzies.

Al is also a small “g” god, or maybe a sub-god but this is not about Al. Now back to our regularly scheduled program already in progress.

P.S.And if one can’t be popular based on ones stellar personality, then relentlessly suck-up.

669

I too have just found this thread and read it start to finish and have to say it was the most entertaining thing I've read in a long time.
I have a similarly equipped 3.0 twin plug 10.5 motor and it makes 295 hp. I didn't build it but bought it that way and it's a blast to drive. I have a 2.7 and a 3.0 that I'm about to attempt rebuilds on. I'm in the process of a 914 conversion and originally bought the 2.7 for it but just found a deal on a 3.0 that was running in the car it came out of but I've decided to go through it. I haven't actually started on either yet but I was in the repair business for 25 years and retired a few years ago but have never messed with and air cooled engine before. LS motors and British cars I know in my sleep so I hope I can figure out these engines.
Sorry to hijack your thread with such a long winded way of saying that thanks to your endeavors and this thread I am motivated now more than ever to start my journey and I'll take your advice with regard to the dedicated camera and labeling bags and putting them into labeled boxes.
Please continue with your 3.0 build thread to help us newbies along and I wish I was closer so I could meet some of you guys and go on some runs with you guys. You guys seem very supportive of each other and it's nice to see.
Keep up the good work
Tony

Welcome to the journey Tony!
Sounds as though you already have enough projects in queue to keep you busy for a while. With your background, I have no doubt that you'll transition just fine into these air-cooled gems. Lots of resources and great people with knowledge willing to help here.
Buckle-up, it's going to be fun!

Brian it's been a while since an update, seems like you had everything on hand to get this buttoned up? Looking forward to the next chapter!

ok... there has to be more done than what you are saying. Even the OUTSIDE looks like it was smoothed out from something.

Vapor blasting will do that.....