Engine Drop Tips?

[Aurel]

Originally Posted by gregg911

Thanks for the response.

2 questions:

What does the ATV jack look like or do you have a manuf and model # of the one that you have.

"Beer" is not specific, what kind of beer?

This is the model I have:


Currently $99 at Northern Tools, but if you shop a bit, can find a better deal (mine was on sale for $60 at pepboys).
The advantage of an ATV lift is no engine balancing issues during removal, and then you can use it to lift the motor to attach to an engine stand.

For beer, I used Corona, but I recently found out Sam Adams does work too.

[0396]

Originally Posted by JP911

A second floor jack is handy so that you can raise the car from the factory jack points if (when) you need a little extra clearance to get the motor out.

Other than a second jack.... having a 2nd set of eyes / hands is always a plus

[gregg911]

I'm having a problem discnnecting the hard oil line at the passenger side rear of engine.

I've put everything I've got into it and it won't go.

I've also tried everything but a torch to get it to go.

It's stuck.

Any tips??

[vash]

what are you cranking with? two big 15" adjustables are a great 2nd choice if you dont have a friend that owns the huge box wrenches.

leverage is your friend right now.

[gregg911]

I got it finally, I just needed more leverage

[efhughes3]

I don't know why more haven't figured this technique out:

If you're not using a lift, I find it much better to raise the entire car to the same level, making the rear jackstands under the T-bars the determining height. You'll probably only have 20-something inches clear under the rear. You get the engine ready to drop, and actually start the process a couple of inches while the car is LEVEL. Much easier to work in this state. THEN, you start to lower the FRONT end SLOWLY while someone is pulling back the engine and lowering that jack. This takes two people, or a lot of back and forth by one. When the front end is finally on the ground and the engine is clear and dropped, the a$$ end will be up in the air at the 36" + to roll it out. Starting with the engine much lower to the ground and level is a much saner beginning, in my opinion. It works, plain and simple-I've done it both ways-level is better.

[rusnak]

My last drop, I dropped the engine while the entire car was level, as Ed suggests.

The car is stable, and not going to tip over. After the engine is basically at full drop, I lower the front of the car, which raises the rear valance. It will clear even a 911SC. No need to remove the bumper or anything.

When re-installing the engine, car is level. Makes installation a breeze.

[ManaMan]

I have dropped my engine and trans, three times by myself. I use a ATV/motorcycle lift from Sears with the big jacks on the back end front, nice and level. It's easy, the longest part of the drop is labeling all the electrical and fuel/vacuum lines. I had to use 4 by 4's to help increase the height, and it worked out well, with no problems. Wayne's book helps. I had to remove the rear cowl, but that was simple.

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by gregg911

I've read the 101 book and subsequent threads for engine drops. I'm looking at starting a drop this weekend. I've got a 1980SC with an Elephant Racing suspension and it sits fairly low and I'm a little worried about clearance once the engine is down.

I'm going after chronic oil leaks on the passenger side.

Concerns:

I'm going for leaks, do I need a complete drop or a partial.

Do I need to or should I drop the engine/trans or just the engine.

Do I drop it onto 4x4s as shown in the book or can I rig a dolly with wheel and drop it onto a dolly.

Will I need to remove the bumper for clearance.

At what point do I need another person involved.

Where am I most likely to get into trouble.

Any special tool required?

Gregg,

There are several different good ways to remove the 911 engine from the car. Most convenient and safer way is the use a hydraulic lift. In the absence of a hydraulic lift, using ordinary garage equipment like floor jack, ATV lift, hydraulic table, furniture dolly, or an engine cart are some of the most commonly used by DIY's today. And probably a few techniques or methods that others used in doing an engine drop.

It is important that you choose and select the method that you understand and comfortable implementing it. Dropping the engine is your main goal but SAFETY should never be over-looked. Before acquiring a hydraulic lift, I have this gizmo that I used to do engine drop SOLO. And have been a valuable tool for some of my local friends doing an engine drop.







While many have safely used floor jacks, for me, engine cart offers a much safer and secure handling of the engine/trans during extraction specially when you're working solo. The most important thing is to be able to get the motor out SAFELY. Removal of the rear bumper and valance is a good way to minimize the needed height (clearance) to clear the engine out.

My only advise to you this time, is have someone around when you first tackle this project. While I do this solo removal/installation all the time even without a hydraulic lift, I don't recommend it to others. Try to have a second safety net like putting wood blocks under the car. In my case, I had jackstands under the lifting bars if something unexpected occurs. Keep focus and you'll be fine.

Tony