Jack Adapter for Engine Removal?

[rusnak]

Thanks Mitch,

I'm not the swiftest welder in the world, but I can use a circular saw. Everything on your 911 is so darned clean! Your 911 looks like a Hubble telescope being assembled at NASA compared to my beater 911.

[Mitch Leland]

Russ, that's because I could fund the Hubble telescope with what I've got in my car. LOL...

[efhughes3]

Well, I don't see anyone here mentioning an ATV jack, which makes a VERY stable platform for supporting the engine and trans. Less than $100, I believe.

[euro911sc]

Ed, ATV Jacks are great, but they are difficult to get an engine off of because they are wide. Your only recourse at that point is to put it on the stand. The problem I have had with them is that they are also too short to get the engine high enough to get on the stand (at least the one I own). But I have used mine a few times for sure.

Here is a simple pictorial.... dimension as needed or scrap wood allows:



The green is 1 piece and the teal blocks are the same, just cut shorter and screwed in from below. Front of engine is on left and rear of engine is on right so planks go along the sealing line of the case not perpendicular. I chiseled out some bits on the tops of the end blocks to fit the case. the benefits are two fold: consistent location of the board and slightly better support. when ever I have to jack up the car I use it, not just for engine drops.

-Michael

[Wayne 962]

It's a pretty useful tool and gets great reviews from everyone who has used it. I haven't dropped a 911 engine since the tool was made, so I don't have any personal experience (playing around with the Boxsters these days).

-Wayne

[efhughes3]

Originally Posted by euro911sc

Ed, ATV Jacks are great, but they are difficult to get an engine off of because they are wide. Your only recourse at that point is to put it on the stand. The problem I have had with them is that they are also too short to get the engine high enough to get on the stand (at least the one I own). But I have used mine a few times for sure.

The width is what makes them great, quite stable for dropping. Many engines go on the stand when they come out. I put mine on a stand even when I did my clutch and some seal work 5 or 6 years ago, so that isn't a bad thing. Yes, it takes at least two to get it on the stand.

[Gunter]

Originally Posted by bpu699

Guys, several of you are putting the full weight of the motor on the SSI heat exchangers... is this ok??? That seems like an aweful lot of weight to put on these. Don't they deform? Crack? Don't you destroy the gaskets?

I really didn't think you should put the full weight of the motor on these, I thought you had to lift by the engine case?

Am I wrong here???

Yep, the engine can rest on the HE's, provided the weight is evenly distributed meaning: full contact with 2x4 or 2x6 pieces, not just in spots.

Think of the fakirs that rest on a bed of nails; even didtribution is the key.
Plus, each HE carries only half the weight; less than 200 lbs.

That's how it's done with a hoist. The car is raised, eveything is disconnected, a "Steel tea wagon" is rolled under, the car is lowered until the engine/transmission sits evenly on the HE's (and case if you like), the 4 mounts are removed, the car is raised, the wagon rolls out the assembly.

Various pieces of wood are used to allow even distribution of weight and allow for the angle of the unit. Push the shift-rod into 1st or 3rd to make it easier to come out of the tunnel.

With a floor jack, I prefer to have a lot of room so I can see. A small home-made lifting platform, or the steel adapter, allows room to see and disconnect stuff. When lowering, I use some 2x8 blocks to support the sides on the HE's for balance and remove them in stages. I prefer to do it alone making sure that the whole unit sits balaced on the "sweet spot" in front of the sump.