Jack Adapter for Engine Removal?

jcsjcs · jcsjcs's Garage

Anyone use our hosts jack adapters for engine removal?

Porsche Tools - Page 1

Planning out my engine drop and want to make it as simple as possible - but don't want to spend and extra $200 if it does not make sense.

I already know I will need some BIG jack stands, will remove the bumper, and may have to buy a jack more height than I currently have.

bpu699 · 03-11-2010, 11:24 AM

I just use an old piece of rubber tire in the cup of the hydraulic jack...

Wouldn't mind seeing others ideas, though.

Anyone build a jig to hold the motor once its removed??? Perhaps something simple out of 2x4's?

Rot 911 · 03-11-2010, 11:32 AM

You need 24" of height as measured at the rear torsion bar covers. I have dropped the engine just using a large floor jack.

vash · vash's Garage

i did it with some spare scrap wood laying about, and some pilfered wheels from my furniture dolly. note that my jack fits under my "motor dolly". i lower it down, until it hits the dolly wheels, and my jack is out of the picture. i roll it out with ease.

coollx · 03-11-2010, 12:27 PM

I bought and used our Host's jack adapter to perform my first engine/trans drop by myself. It is well designed and gives you control of both the drop and the reinstall. It has a tilt and leveling adjustment which is needed.

I know others have done it successfully using a variety of make-shift items but I wanted to be in total control since I was going to do the drop/reinstall on my own.

Imo, well worth the $200.

CCM911 · 03-11-2010, 01:27 PM

And there is really no need to remove the rear bumper. In fact, we(myself and my RTR/PCA posse) have over 15 drops under our belts, and we have never had to remove the rear bumper. Just use some big-ass rear jack stands. And if your jack does not go up far enough, just get the car up on the stands. Then use some wood on the jack to get the car higher, and then you should be fine.

Do you have a front valence/air dam that may hit the floor? Then just use a couple of jack stands in the front.

I have no idea why folks insist on removing the rear bumper.

vwbobd · vwbobd's Garage

I found a engine removal jack on craingslist atlanta for 750

jcsjcs · jcsjcs's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by CCM911

And there is really no need to remove the rear bumper. In fact, we(myself and my RTR/PCA posse) have over 15 drops under our belts, and we have never had to remove the rear bumper. Just use some big-ass rear jack stands. And if your jack does not go up far enough, just get the car up on the stands. Then use some wood on the jack to get the car higher, and then you should be fine.

Do you have a front valence/air dam that may hit the floor? Then just use a couple of jack stands in the front.

I have no idea why folks insist on removing the rear bumper.

CCM911 - If you have any pics of the car in the middle of this process, they are appreciated. I have ZERO drops under my belt - though I am in the process of recruiting some help.

175K911 · 03-12-2010, 06:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CCM911

And there is really no need to remove the rear bumper. In fact, we(myself and my RTR/PCA posse) have over 15 drops under our belts, and we have never had to remove the rear bumper. Just use some big-ass rear jack stands. And if your jack does not go up far enough, just get the car up on the stands. Then use some wood on the jack to get the car higher, and then you should be fine.

Do you have a front valence/air dam that may hit the floor? Then just use a couple of jack stands in the front.

I have no idea why folks insist on removing the rear bumper.

I use a variation on your theme. I put both the front and rear up on ramps, then jack the rear higher with large truck jack stands. It still only gets my rear bumper about 22" up. So I drop my engine (using the Pelican engine cradle on my 3 ton steel floor jack, then take another hefty jack I have and lift the car the final few inches by jacking under the torque tube area of the car. At that point there isn't much weight on the back of the car.

euro911sc · euro911sc's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by vwbobd

I found a engine removal jack on craingslist atlanta for 750

Please don't waste your money! All you need is a good floor jack. I actually got mine at harbor freight ~$100. As long as I know to release it very slowly it performs well.

I made and 'engine cradle' out of spare 2x6 (I think) wood... one long piece and two short ones at each end. The short ones are grooved out to match bits of the case as needed. They also leave a large open space in the middle where my sump plate goes so that the sump takes no load.

The wood has two marks on it: one for engine only and one for engine and tranny. This is where to put the jack so everything is balanced when you are pulling it out.

Enjoy!

-Michael

al lkosmal · 03-12-2010, 07:20 AM

I have and use one of the jack adapters. It works very well and makes it easier to drop solo.

Regards,
al

PS: Prior to buying the adapter, I've also used scrap wood, etc. they both work, but I have found that the adapter fits the underside shape of the case well, adds balance and is adjustable so that you can remove the engine/ trans easily.

vash · vash's Garage

getting the motor safely on the ground is the first priority. if the car is not high enough to slide the motor out, it can be addressed later. i have lifted the car off the motor before. no big deal.

thinking about it. it is probably a decent idea to do it this way. no sense lowering the motor from WAAAAY up there, when you can land it, and lift the relatively light car by going a bit higher and higher one side at a time. once you do it, you will find the lowering part is the easy part. remembering to disconnect everything takes more

coxy · coxy's Garage

Best one i have seen yet.

Max's thread on impact bumpers

Board Message

steve911T · 03-13-2010, 06:43 AM

Euro911SC, I would love to see a picture of your 2x6 engine removal tool. That more or less fits my budget. Thanks if you can post it. Steve

Gunter · Gunter's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by CCM911

And there is really no need to remove the rear bumper. In fact, we(myself and my RTR/PCA posse) have over 15 drops under our belts, and we have never had to remove the rear bumper. Just use some big-ass rear jack stands. And if your jack does not go up far enough, just get the car up on the stands. Then use some wood on the jack to get the car higher, and then you should be fine.

Do you have a front valence/air dam that may hit the floor? Then just use a couple of jack stands in the front.

I have no idea why folks insist on removing the rear bumper.

+1; leave the bumper on.

I put 2 x 8 x 16" boards (with wedges) under the front wheels to get enough height so that the front spoiler doesn't get damaged when tilting the 911 arse-high. That way, I can lft the rear high enough to roll the engine/transmission out.

Safety first.
The balancing spot for engine/transmission is in front of the sump, not on it!
I made a simple adapter with plywood etc. to support the engine and transmission. Since the jack didn't go high enough, I just used some wood to make up the difference. Important: I lowered everything in stages using wooden blocks to support the load sideways under the HE's.

Take your time, don't rush and check twice that everything is disconnected.

Mitch Leland · Mitch Leland's Garage

I've posted this previously... Here's my engine drop combo. The engine support is a 3/4" plywood platform with a 1" pipe flange, the 1" pipe nipple fits through my floor jack to keep the plywood platform from tipping over if it wanted to do so.

The engine hoists are connected to fixtures that bolt up to the wheel axles. I borrowed the engine hoists, I think I paid the local welding shop $75.00 to cut out, drill and weld up the fixtures.

bpu699 · 03-13-2010, 01:04 PM

Guys, several of you are putting the full weight of the motor on the SSI heat exchangers... is this ok??? That seems like an aweful lot of weight to put on these. Don't they deform? Crack? Don't you destroy the gaskets?

I really didn't think you should put the full weight of the motor on these, I thought you had to lift by the engine case?

Am I wrong here???

rusnak · 02:15 PM

No, the weight of the engine is on the crank case. That is what the middle beam is for. It should be slightly taller than the side support, which is there if the engine starts to lean.

+1 on not removing the bumper and checking and re-checking that EVERYTHING is disconnected, and taking your time on the engine lowering.

I get clearance from the rear valence by lowering the FRONT of the car, and the rear magically rises up. No need to even remove the valance.

Another thread: happy reading.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/530236-dropping-motor-question.html

rusnak · 03-13-2010, 02:41 PM

Here's the platform that I made.

I think it could be adapted to a trolley jack using Mitch Leland's method even though I used an ATV jack.

If I were to give extra advise, I'd say strap the engine to the platform with a tie-down once it is lowered a little bit.

Also, use 4 jackstands to get the car level when you're dropping and re-installing the motor. This will make it easy to remove and re-install the bolts with remarkable ease.

Finally, you might want to use a second jack at the transmission nose to make sure that the shift rod clears the center tunnel without putting pressure on the shift rod. Once is is clear, begin lowering.

Credit for this design goes to Mr. Fred Cook, and the 2"x4" block supports the transmission at the point where the part number is stamped in the blocky aluminum protrusion at the bottom of the casting. This will allow you to support the engine and transmission as a single assembly, right under the balance point that Gunter mentions.

Mitch Leland · Mitch Leland's Garage

Thanks Russ, Simple and effective... I've added your drawing to my "to do" list.