Stripped Thread On Rear Wheel Hub

[xxultramistersi]

I was going to change the wheels on my 1989 911 coupe and when I went to put the new wheels on, one nut would not torque properly. After taking the wheel off and inspecting it a little bit a buddy of mine noticed that the threads on the bolt(part the nut attaches too) had a flat spot that carved a new thread in the lug nut. We tried the nuts that weren't damaged, and they would not go on either(we didn't force it, as to save them). Could we have damaged the actual bolt without pneumatic tools? The torque wrench was set to 90 lbs and it wasn't even clicking. The car was in the shop a few weeks ago and they undoubtedly took off the wheels with an air wrench, so that's on possible cause.

Another question, how easy is it to remove and replace one of the bolts that the lug nuts attach too? This is a pain in the ass, but I am glad we caught it before a track day rolls around.

[herman maire]

If its on the rear, you will have to pull the hub, when you pull the hub you have to undo the CV, when you pull the hub the bearing gets trashed, so would need a new rear bearing. If its on the front its much, much easier.

Have you tried just retreading it? I dont know how damaged it is but if its minor, it might be all you need. Most times the aluminum nuts get damaged/stripped and not the actual steel studs.

good luck

[windsoreight]

Try a thread chase first.

[uwanna]

[QUOTE=herman maire;5314032]If its on the rear, you will have to pull the hub, when you pull the hub you have to undo the CV, when you pull the hub the bearing gets trashed, so would need a new rear bearing. If its on the front its much, much easier.

I have to disagree! All the stuff mentioned above is absolutely unnecessary. (first off, remove caliper and rotor if rear wheel) Just get a BF hammer and smack the stud smartly several times. It will pop right out. If you have a steel lug nut available, you might thread it on the stud for a better striking surface. Get a new stud, slide in from the back, then use a hollow ended steel lug nut and some sort of spacers to "pull" the stud into place.
I replaced all the studs on my rear wheels with extra long ones to accommodate large wheel spacers, using this method. Did this 18yrs ago, and everything is still going strong! i.e. doesn't hurt the bearings or anything.
If its on the front, remove the front hubs, unbolt brake rotors, drive out the stud, and "pull" in a new one. The removal of rear bearings et all would be a nightmare solution to a simple fix!

Go to this thread and click on the link to photos in the first post. Great tutorial, but if replacing a stock length stud, there's no need to mess with the emergency brake stuff like he did. Nothing like pictures instead of words!!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/252988-wheel-stud-replacement-pictoral.html

[Gunter]

Originally Posted by xxultramistersi

I was going to change the wheels on my 1989 911 coupe and when I went to put the new wheels on, one nut would not torque properly. After taking the wheel off and inspecting it a little bit a buddy of mine noticed that the threads on the bolt(part the nut attaches too) had a flat spot that carved a new thread in the lug nut. We tried the nuts that weren't damaged, and they would not go on either(we didn't force it, as to save them). Could we have damaged the actual bolt without pneumatic tools? The torque wrench was set to 90 lbs and it wasn't even clicking. The car was in the shop a few weeks ago and they undoubtedly took off the wheels with an air wrench, so that's on possible cause.

Another question, how easy is it to remove and replace one of the bolts that the lug nuts attach too? This is a pain in the ass, but I am glad we caught it before a track day rolls around.

Alu nuts are softer than the stud, so, a thread-chaser might fix the stud.
If that's not satisfactory, install a new stud like uwanna says.

The thread was most likely damaged not by removing the nut with an air gun but by installing the nut.
Some of these jockeys don't start the thread by hand but insert the nut into the gun and then just aim for the hole without any lube.

I'd talk to the manager about this and expect them to pay for the new stud.
And, of course, never go back there for more "service".

BTW: I would remove each lug nut and apply the lube recommended by Porsche and torque with the correct 95-96 ft-lbs.

[herman maire]

Uwanna,

you just taught me something today..... cool. I thought they had to be pressed out and pressed in, so in my mind the complete hub had to come off.

I have 1 question for you. I have a pair of hubs with some extra long studs that I want to transfer over to my car. Is it possible to have them pressed out then I just hammer mine out a press in the extra long ones all while not damaging any treads or do they get damaged when pressing out?

If that can work.... you have NO IDEA how much work that would save me.

[uwanna]

Originally Posted by herman maire

Uwanna,

you just taught me something today..... cool. I thought they had to be pressed out and pressed in, so in my mind the complete hub had to come off.

I have 1 question for you. I have a pair of hubs with some extra long studs that I want to transfer over to my car. Is it possible to have them pressed out then I just hammer mine out a press in the extra long ones all while not damaging any treads or do they get damaged when pressing out?

If that can work.... you have NO IDEA how much work that would save me.

When you knock out the long studs from your spare hubs, screw on a steel lug nut about halfway on, then support the back of the hub on a vise or solid surface and bang away with a BF hammer. You won't hurt the studs.
Refer to the pictorial I referenced in my post, and see how he installed longer studs on his hubs while on the car. If your studs are "extra long" you my have clearence problems with inserting the studs, but some folks have drilled out an area behind the brake backing plates where the emergency brake adjuster is, to make the studs clear. In any event, it's a hellava lot easier than doing new bearings and stuff. Good luck!!

EDIT: see John Walker's post below, and forget the "drilling" comment!

[Gunter]

+1

The studs have a knurling press-fit.
Use penetrating oil and then hammer away with the hub on a solid surface and a steel nut on the stud.

Or press them out if you have access to a press.

When pulling the studs into the other hub, a little grease helps.

[john walker's workshop]

remove the e-brake cable and remove and load the extra long studs through that large hole. i use an air hammer with a hammer head shaped bit to remove them.

[uwanna]

Originally Posted by john walker's workshop

remove the e-brake cable and remove and load the extra long studs through that large hole. i use an air hammer with a hammer head shaped bit to remove them.

John,
Thanks for the tip on the Ebrake cable hole. I need to install some very long studs for 2 inch spacers. I will certainly give your method a try!

EDIT:
As I mentioned in my previous post, I installed some very long studs 18yrs ago, and I remember that I didn't pull the flanges, but couldn't remember how i did it.
It all comes back to my fuzzy brain now DUH!! The only way I could have done it , was with your method!
Guess I don't have Alzheimers qiute yet, but perhaps "halfheimers" Sure do love this forum to help my aging mind!!

[Joe Bob]

Yup....they can come out w/o a hub removal....BTDT.