Engine pull.

deerwd · 06-25-2001, 01:51 AM

Just got a magazine today. I think it was called 911 And Porsche? It's a British publication. The issue had some good pics and tips on a 3.2 engine pull.

Speaking of engine pulls. I have seen plenty of articles on pulling an engine, but never any on installing one. I hope your not going to give me the standard Chilton, Haynes, etc. answer, "Install in reverse order".

What words of advice or tips can any of ya'll offer on installing a 3.0 engine.

Somebody really needs to write a tech article on this.

Bill Douglas · 06-25-2001, 01:56 AM

And... Our very own Wayne writes articles for 911 and Porsche World magazine.

[This message has been edited by Bill Douglas (edited 06-25-2001).]

Rot 911 · 06-25-2001, 07:54 AM

Deerwd, having just dropped and reinstalled my engine this late winter/early spring, I can truly say "installation is reverse of removal!" However I would suggest the following: find/make a good checklist of things to disconnect/unbolt for an engine removal. I found a good one online, but damned if I know where I found it. Seemed more complete than the one in the Pelican article. Make sure you label everything you remove even if it seems obvious where it goes. I had one small hose that for the life of me I couldn't remember where it went. Finally had to take a picture of it and post it here to identify it. Get zip lock bags to place bolts you remove and clearly label the bag (for example axle bolts). I dropped and reinstalled the engine by myself.(First time on a Porsche). I had my wife around when I did the lift back up into the engine bay just in case something went wrong. Just make sure you have the wiring and axles out of the way when you start jacking the engine back into place. Using the rear engine mount bar it is really quite easy to line up the mounts front and rear. Just take your time and check everything twice.

Kurt V
72 911E

Greg-slant/cab · 06-25-2001, 11:31 AM

I agree with Kurt in every way. Be very, very anal. Label every hose and every wire you remove and make notes to your self. I labeled wires with numbers and hoses with letters. I did follow the Pelican article and found it to be great advice. It did not cover everything on my particular car but it hit all the major points. Use common sense and check everything twice. As far as putting it back in, it was prety much the same. If your doing the motor only, make sure you get the clutch lined up correctly and the clutsh fork on the throw out bearing correctly. It is not that hard of a job. Good Luck.

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Greg-slant/cab
http://www.geocities.com/gregslantcab/

88911coupe · 06-25-2001, 11:57 AM

I read the same article. Did anyone note that the mechanic that was helping him removed and engine in 17 MINUTES!? That's almost as fast has 86ragtop. Someday I would like to see if I could pull off and engine removal.
Buck
88 Coupe

Jim T · 06-25-2001, 12:12 PM

17 minutes is quick, of course, but not that surprising if speed is your goal, and if you have all the tools lined up and ready to go.

When you get right down to it, there is actually very little connecting the engine to the car. 4 mounting bolts are all that holds the engine/trans assembly in. A few electrical connections, some linkage, oil and fuel lines are the only things that need to be disconnected, all of this stuff comes apart pretty quickly. Greg's advice to label everything is of course great advice if you've never done this before, but once you've done it a couple of times, you really don't need to label things. Because you can only forget to connect something, you can't "misconnect" anything, all the connections are vastly different from each other.

Removing and installing an engine from a 911 is actually far easier than most people realize. Very neat and easy.

[This message has been edited by Jim T (edited 06-25-2001).]

GIBSON · GIBSON's Garage

Another little tip that really helps me- always or whenever possible, place bolts and nuts back where they came from. This really makes it easy to put things back together.
For example, slip the trans mounting bolts back up into place a thread or two, put the starter nut back on it's stud, these things really help. Also, have some large zip lock bags handy-put the nuts a bolts that can't be threaded back into place in theml. If you think you might have a problem, use a magic marker to identify what's there. These are small things but it really helps when it comes time to put that engine back in.
Bruce Herrmann
73911S

Ngueldner · 06-25-2001, 04:58 PM

How do you safely get the car high enough off of the ground? I heard that you need 36" of clearance.

5axis · 06-25-2001, 05:07 PM

I dropped my turbo earlier this year. I would recomend pulling the bumper to get some easy extra clearance. I also used a mid sized transmision jack to move the whole mess with some control. A bit intimidating at first but not too hard.

Jim T · 06-25-2001, 05:10 PM

Yeah, actually for the home mechanic, getting the rear high enough off the ground is the hardest part. Its gotta be pretty damn high up there to get clearance. Can be kinda scary.

A lot of people remove the bumper. That's what I usually do. Can remove just the center panel on the early cars, a bit more of a pain on big bumper cars.