The question asked but never answered, how do I install new Targa window stops?

[WMichelsen]

Sorry to revive and old tread... but I can't find any detailed info, and it's still unclear to me.

I've disassembled everything, and carefully removed the old rivets. But, even after noodling on this for way longer than I care to admit, I can't settle on the proper way to peen in the new rivets. The need for a solid counter in "the channel" is clear, but which side is that? And, which direction does the rivet insert? It's ambiguous to me.

There are 2 possible orientations, and 2 possible ends to hammer on. Both the bracket and window frame have tapered holes, so I'm not sure which should receive the tapered head of the rivet. Then, which end of the rivet gets the static support, and which do you hammer on? It seems like the proper orientation and hammering could be important for how tight/secure the result it. Or is it??

[Mark Salvetti]

I'm curious too. A bit more info in this thread: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/1053880-79-sc-targa-window-seals.html

I think you want orientation #2, with the flat heads on the side where the window channel goes.

Mark

[WMichelsen]

Thanks Mark. I think you are correct. In fact, the diagram in the PET seems to agree.

So then, do you pound the rivet from the tapered Head, with a static block behind the smaller diameter Tail? Or vise-versa?
I guess that's the case, since the way the top bracket angles back, you can't get a clean line, with a punch, to the top rivet on the Tail side.
Then again, I'm trying to envision how the copper spreads out as you pound it. I dunno.

[montauk]

I did this a few years ago. I honestly don't remember which side I put the rivet head on. I do remember being worried about messing it up. It turned out that the copper was so easy to hammer that it just spread out and filled in the hole. It wasn't a big deal.

[WMichelsen]

Finished my wing window caps. For others facing the questions I had and trouble finding info, here's my take:

1. I'm sure the factory had special press tooling for this. The original rivets were so smoothly flush with the rail. I don't see how that can be easily done during replacement.
2. Of the rivet orientation options shown previously, I actually tried both. Getting a clear shot at the rivets was much easier in orientation-1, but I hadn't adequately secured it and it came out loose. On retry, I went with orientation-2.
3. Orientation-2 is what the PET shows, and if I am not careful there's lower risk of damaging the window rail (IMO). I envision possible damage if the punch over-strikes the edge. And, I envision damage to the rail hole perimeter as the rivet spreads out. Unwarranted worries, quite possibly. But...



So, on with my preferred install:
1. Trim the excess rubber from over-mold. The caps I used are aftermarket parts. Maybe Porsche parts don't have this issue?? But, the excess rubber will prevent a solid tight fit, so trim it off.
2. As mentioned, I chose Orientation-2 for the reasons already stated.
3. Find a solid backing plate. I had a small scrap of 1"x1/2" channel iron which fit perfectly.
4. Concoct a sandwich and securely clamp the cap and rail together. In addition to the 1"x1/2" channel iron, the hex handle of an extra punch fit into the back. On the front, a 1/4" nut slipped over the rivet end worked well. Then, a vise grip clamped the assembly together. I think this is pretty helpful while hammering the rivet. Maybe it's not necessary, but in my mind, it helps keep the cap bracket and window channel tight while riveting and ensures a solid result.
5. Rivet the lower one first. Clear punch access to the lower rivet is easy. BTW, the copper rivet is not as soft as I expected from other posts. It required significant impact force.
6. Clear access to the punch the top rivet is interfered by the cap bracket. Punching off-center and off-line is not great, but still works OK.

So that's it. And below pics should help illustrate the jumble I wrote.

[Otter74]

Thanks - that makes it very clear.