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red67's Avatar
 
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Show me your engine removal without using a lift shots...

i know it can be done easily with axle stands and jacks... apparently... i need proof

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Old 05-12-2011, 01:18 PM
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I would say 90% of the DIYers use this method..
Old 05-12-2011, 01:24 PM
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Real Men do it in the Dirt



I took my time and it took me the better part of two days, but this is my first drop on a car that has been sitting for 10 years.

But it is very doable.
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Old 05-12-2011, 01:28 PM
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I do it using jack-stands almost every winter. I'll have to see if I have some pictures handy.
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Old 05-12-2011, 01:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cowboyrolo View Post
I took my time and it took me the better part of two days, but this is my first drop on a car that has been sitting for 10 years.

But it is very doable.
impressive stuff cowboyrolo



do you think if i removed the fuel system (carbs in my case), shroud, fan and alternator, took the heat exchangers and exhaust off (all needs to come off anyway) then one can get the gearbox and engine out without raising the front?


Quote:
Originally Posted by jluetjen View Post
I do it using jack-stands almost every winter. I'll have to see if I have some pictures handy.
that would be great. thx john.
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Old 05-12-2011, 01:43 PM
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Here how i do it.
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Old 05-12-2011, 01:57 PM
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Quote:
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Here how i do it.
awesome!!!!

the dolly looks like a good idea too.
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Old 05-12-2011, 02:02 PM
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why need proof? Is the sky blue? Do bears $heet in the woods? is the pope Italian? Well, maybe not the Pope.
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Old 05-12-2011, 02:12 PM
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I have a trolly just like red67. It's actually the bottom of the engine stand, I just took off the vertical piece and cut a board to put on top.

Because its an engine stand there is only steel on three sides, so the wood top you put on can have a slot for a trolley jack. You lower the engine on the trolly jack until the heat exchangers land on the trolley, then you can pull out the jack and wheel the engine away.

I also didn't remove the rear bumper but if you do you don't have to lift the car as high which is easier on the nerves. I needed Rye afterwards but it was my first engine drop.

A big help is having two jack pads and two people with jacks, you can lift the car simultaneously from both sides, following it up with the axle stands under the torsion bar covers. It's not very difficult, even I managed it with a bit of help.
Old 05-12-2011, 02:43 PM
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Just a few weeks ago I helped a friend drop his SC motor for a clutch job. Will probably put it back this weekend. Same jack is in the "Supporting engine at removal" thread. Thanks to Fred Cook for the design.

Btw, car is sort of forlorn, but the method and tools are the same as what I use on mine.

Last edited by rusnak; 05-12-2011 at 02:54 PM..
Old 05-12-2011, 02:47 PM
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Old 05-12-2011, 02:53 PM
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Here is my secret weapon for the do-it-yourself engine drop...




When you put the engine on the skateboard it lets you easily move the engine around by steering it by just leaning the whole engine. It is really fast for accurately positioning the engine when it is time to put it back in. You can roll the engine under the car and by having a set of cheap jack stands for each corner of the engine/trans mounts, you should be able to have the main 4 bolts tightened in 10-15 minutes.
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Old 05-12-2011, 07:04 PM
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Easier than hydraulic lift........

This was what I used before getting a hydraulic lift. The engine removal and installation is much easier and quicker than my new hydraulic lift. While I have used this hoist lift for many years without any incident (safety), this is not for everyone to use. It takes special attention and care using it compared to a conventional hydraulic lift.



I have the hoist as a loner as of this writing. This is much better and safer than using floor jacks and jack stands.

Tony

Last edited by boyt911sc; 05-12-2011 at 07:26 PM..
Old 05-12-2011, 07:23 PM
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Weird, I can't find any stills of my own engine drop from earlier this year, but I can find these from 3 years ago on the same car:

We never did remove the rear valance. 6-ton jackstands are the key to this type of drop.

Old 05-12-2011, 07:27 PM
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Lift the car straight up as high as you can get it - six-ton jack stands help. Then lower the front to the floor. With the car pivoting on the rear torsion bar tube, the rear will rise high enough to move the engine out without removing the valance or bumper.



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Old 05-12-2011, 07:42 PM
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No Pics, but we use jackstands and a Harbor Freight motorcycle lift every time the engine comes out of the 914. Which is probably more often than we would like to admit haha
Old 05-12-2011, 07:42 PM
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Old 05-12-2011, 07:53 PM
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Old 05-12-2011, 08:37 PM
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I'd like to add a few comments.

If the car is level when the engine drop is started, then it's easier to control. Also, the car only has to be a few feet up initially to free it from the body (see post #11). If the car is similarly level when the engine is put back in, then the mounting bolts will thread right in with finger control - no cross threading.

The car body only has to be high to clear the engine. The earlier observation about dropping the front to raise the rear is what I do, and I don't have to remove the rear valance. If you take the front wheels off, then you get even more rear clearance.

I raise the car by going side to side, about 4" at a time, with a jack pad and blocks of wood. It's very stable the whole time.

Last edited by rusnak; 05-12-2011 at 08:49 PM..
Old 05-12-2011, 08:46 PM
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Here's a link to a few more variations on the theme. My method (last post) is pretty similar to most. I have the engine balanced on the jack so it is easy to tip fore and aft or sideways, but you do need to keep control of it.

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Old 05-12-2011, 09:17 PM
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