Control Arm Bushing Install Made Easy !!

[Smoove1010]

Originally Posted by wrxnofx

So, this method seems like a really good way to go. However, I can't put a threaded rod through the control arm because I still have the caps on the front end of my control arms. Gonna have to use the pipe clamps...

Wouldn't you want to pop those caps off and take this (hopefully) rare opportunity to clean up those splines in there and re-grease? I used the pipe-clamp method and while it worked, it was a little fiddly, but I already had pipe clamps on hand and was looking to avoid another trip to Home Depot. You do need a very stout clamp; I don't think most bar clamps will do.

[Bulldog9]

Another reason why these Forums are so outstanding. Though I am happy with my Rebel Racing bushings, I went with them primarily because a local shop wanted almost as much as the price difference (as well as buying new elephant rubber bushings) to press new bushings on my A Arms. I was able to do it myself. Had I thought of this, could a saved some coin.....

[zl0ca]

.
I ended up using a very similar approach but I was fortunate enough to have the elephant racing tool which made the job a breeze.
Another one done!!

[Andy Somogyi]

Originally Posted by Url

I used the same technique to install my bushings, thanks for that!

Those table legs look really familiar Url, are you in the UK by any chance?

I had those exact same table legs on a printer table that kept when my employer (Galileo Int. in Swindon England) threw it out.

[Discseven]

Nice solution Dro!

[UROParts]

It also helps to heat up the metal parts a bit with a hair dryer or adjustable heat gun, so the metal doesn't draw the heat out of the bushings as quickly. No need to get the metal super hot, you just want to reduce the differential between the metal and the pre-heated bushing temperature so you have more time to work with it.

[Time Collector]

Drola or Pelican please submit this method to the DYI how to section so more people can see this.

[donagain1]

As far as indexing the mounting brackets to the control arm goes, if you don't want to fiddle with a bevel gauge or digital level (like we've all got one, eh?) I found a pretty fail-safe way. If you remember, prior to removing the brackets from the original bushing material set them on the bench, take a hacksaw and spot a nice easily visible place on the flanges, and hacksaw a kerf notch through both the control arm flange and the bracket flange at the same time, maybe a 32nd of an inch deep or so. Then smear some white putty, correction fluid, a bright crayon, anything that will contrast and be easily visible into the notch and wipe off the rest... voila, matching index marks. I used one notch on the right arm and two on the left arm so it's impossible to mix up the brackets when you go to reassemble.

[jlex]

Excellent idea, Donagain1

[rusnak]

Just install the a-arms onto the car with the soap still wet. Leave the struts off. The next day, the a-arms are perfectly indexed. Any marks or angle gauge will just get you almost there, but not dead nuts on.

[tomgalloway1]

around here we use brake fluid for lube

[obscene]

Quick question regarding the caps on the end of the control arms: You can just pop those off right? I'd like to use this method but wanted to double check first.

Thanks!

[Ayles]

They just pop out from the inside. I did put mine in the freezer to reinstall. Made it so the go back in super easy.

[donagain1]

I'm mailing the ER install tools back to Ayles tomorrow. He was kind enough to lend them and (for a change) I was smart enough to take him up on his offer...I went with the Uro heavy duty bushings, followed their instructions to the letter, and pushed them right on with no issues. I put the Rennline two ball joints w/nuts, spring washers, and cotter pins incl. kit for $150 bucks, the $42 buck KYB-G-Excel shocks in my Boge struts, new stabilizer bar bushings, and the Lemforder OEM tie rod ends in, and except for the #%^#ing sway bar reinstall everything was a piece of cake. Just got the car realigned today and I can't believe how tight the front end feels. I don't know how long they'll last, but those shocks sure dampen any bounces well.

[Ayles]

Good to hear that it all worked out!!

[obscene]

Originally Posted by Ayles

They just pop out from the inside. I did put mine in the freezer to reinstall. Made it so the go back in super easy.

awesome thank you!

[UROParts]

Originally Posted by donagain1

I went with the Uro heavy duty bushings, followed their instructions to the letter, and pushed them right on with no issues.

Originally Posted by donagain1

Just got the car realigned today and I can't believe how tight the front end feels.

Glad the install went smoothly Don! Did you take any photos while you were working on it?

Dmitry at Pelican Parts should be adding these new bushings to their site shortly, they currently only offer our "soft" OEM-durometer bushings. Our "HD" performance Front Control Arm Bushing Kit 901 341 421 02KHD is about 30% more firm than OEM durometer rubber bushings. These HD bushings require heat (boiling water) and some kind of press arrangement to install, and are definitely not a "slip-fit".



We also offer an HD version of Rear Spring Plate Bushings 911 333 009 00BHD, which is 80-85 Shore A durometer rubber (vs the 55-60 Shore A rubber used for OEM bushings).

[donagain1]

Originally Posted by UROParts

Glad the install went smoothly Don! Did you take any photos while you were working on it?

Nope, no photos to share, Drew! My hands were too messy and far too busy to get things in place before the bushings cooled. I liked the firm/dense feel of the the new HD bushings, and that they translated to a nice responsive ride when all was said and done. Naturally, no one can stipulate to even a ten year longevity and resistance to the inner bore deformation at this point, but time will tell. I'm curious whether the Uro control arms sold here on Pelican are now factory pre-fit with the new bushings. It'd be a bummer to sell out existing stock which might have the old, softer formulation and jeopardize any good will generated from selling the new HDs in individual sets. One more thing, it was a pleasure doing business with you.

What I like about the OP's workaround to not having access to a hydraulic vertical press technique is that it eliminates the need for a third hand to steady the fixed end of a pipe clamp while turning the screw end. As I recall, even the Elephant how-to video mentions the desirability of having a helper during the process, and we don't always have someone available. I didn't see this thread until after I completed the task otherwise I probably would have jammed down to Home Depot for a length of threaded rod and the rest of the hardware, probably a ten buck investment.

[UROParts]

Originally Posted by donagain1

I'm curious whether the Uro control arms sold here on Pelican are now factory pre-fit with the new bushings. It'd be a bummer to sell out existing stock which might have the old, softer formulation and jeopardize any good will generated from selling the new HDs in individual sets. One more thing, it was a pleasure doing business with you.

Thanks Don! Our control arm 911 341 901 01 is actually received as a complete assembly from a large control arm manufacturer, which we suspect is the very same source used by another well-known aftermarket brand offered by Pelican. Being complete assemblies, these do not have our HD bushings. We haven't heard of any issues with these control arms, but they're not a big seller and we've discontinued them. There are only a couple left, and when they're gone, they're gone.

[rokemester]

Originally Posted by Url

I used the same technique to install my bushings, thanks for that!

This pic is awesome!!