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UROParts's Avatar
 
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^ Box-end ratcheting wrenches would probably work great with the all-threaded rod, allowing quick compression before the bushings cool.

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Old 11-22-2019, 10:18 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #41 (permalink)
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I've been trying this method (threaded rod) on my '71T, but I'm having difficulty with the rear bushing. I'm using the URO high density bushings, heating in boiling water and using dish soap for lubricant. I was able to install the front bushing after 2 trys, but the rear keeps pulling into housing. I've tried the method in the instructions (1/2 way into the housing, then onto the control arm); all the way into the housing, then onto the control arm; 1/2 onto the control arm, then housing; and all the way onto the control arm, then housing. The housing and control arm were cleaned and sanded with 600 grit.

Any suggestions? Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

dho
Old 05-13-2021, 02:38 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #42 (permalink)
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Pretty nifty little rig that makes light work out of the task.
Old 05-13-2021, 03:05 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #43 (permalink)
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I suggest RSR bushings, much nicer solution IMHO.



Everything about these are easy…..and very smooth operating too.


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Old 05-14-2021, 10:43 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #44 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doswald View Post
I'm having difficulty with the rear bushing. the rear keeps pulling into housing. I've tried the method in the instructions (1/2 way into the housing, then onto the control arm); all the way into the housing, then onto the control arm; 1/2 onto the control arm, then housing; and all the way onto the control arm, then housing.
Hi Doswald, you could try pressing the bushing fully into the housing, then measure the depth of the empty space behind the bushing. Fill that void with a slice of PVC pipe or something that's the same width as the void, but has an OD that's slightly smaller than the housing ID. The spacer should have an ID that's larger than the control arm tube, so it doesn't hang up. Then slide on your large plate that presses the end of the housing.

That way the end of the bushing is supported inside the housing while it's being pressed onto the arm, so that the bushing can't get pulled into the housing, similar to ER's tool.

Their tools definitely make the job easier, but tools cost money and we're trying to keep the price down on our kit.
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Old 05-14-2021, 04:17 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #45 (permalink)
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Thank you for the suggestions. I was finally able to get them to seat after several tries.

Dho

Old 05-15-2021, 12:01 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #46 (permalink)
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