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83 911 Production Cab #10
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Here is the correct link: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/609149-oil-cooler-seals-leekage-engine-wall.html
I put the Red/Brown one from Elring, torqued at 25Nm and it did not leak.
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Who Will Live... Will See ![]() ![]() ![]() 83 911 Production Cab #10, Slightly Modified: Unslanted, 3.2, PMO EFI, TECgt, CE 911 CAM Sync / Pulley / Wires, SSI, Dansk Sport 2/2, 17" Euromeister, CKO GT3 Seats, Going SOK Super Charger |
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83 911 Production Cab #10
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Did anybody has an explanation for the bulge on your old ring? Seem they have escape from the side.
Also, stop swiping napkins from McDonald ![]() ![]()
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Who Will Live... Will See ![]() ![]() ![]() 83 911 Production Cab #10, Slightly Modified: Unslanted, 3.2, PMO EFI, TECgt, CE 911 CAM Sync / Pulley / Wires, SSI, Dansk Sport 2/2, 17" Euromeister, CKO GT3 Seats, Going SOK Super Charger |
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Oh, look at THIS !
Broken up! (inside is OK)
Last edited by Flojo; 02-12-2014 at 10:47 AM.. |
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Marietta, Ga (Atlanta)
Posts: 2,970
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Me thinks you may have found your elusive leak! Ain't this forum the cat's meow!
Good luck.
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'80SC Widebody 3.6 transplant Anthracite "The Rocket" Long gone but still miss them all: '77 911 Targa, '72 BMW 3.0CS Coupe(finest car I ever had!) '71 911T Coupe White, '70 911T Coupe Blue '68 911 Coupe Orange, '68 911L Soft Window Targa |
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yes indeed, this forum is great!
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Regards, Flo / 79 SC streetrod - Frankfurt, Germany Instagram: @elvnmisfit |
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Straight shooter
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Flo,
Enjoy the dry engine.
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“Of the value traps, the most widespread and pernicious is value rigidity. This is an inability to revalue what one sees because of commitment to previous values. In motorcycle maintenance, you MUST rediscover what you do as you go. Rigid values makes this impossible.” ― Robert M. Pirsig, Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance: An Inquiry Into Values |
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Your words in God's ear, as we say in Germany!
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Nice photo documenting FLO!!!
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Karl ~~~ Current: '80 Silver Targa w /'85 3.2. 964 cams, SSI, Dansk 2 in 1 out muf, custom fuel feed with spin on filter Prior: '77 Copper 924. '73 Black 914. '74 White Carrera. '79 Silver, Black, Anthracite 930s. |
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Great post Flo, I'm in the same boat and feel I have exact same situation. . .good stuff, Danke!
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1979 911 RS clone hotrod 1983 930 turbo-sold, will be missed 1992 964 C2 Coupe-regrettably sold 1980 911 SC Weissach-regrettably sold 1975 911S-sold but not forgotten |
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I've read, that the OEM seal mentioned in the bulletin is a "silicone"...
would that here be a better option: loctite 3463, 2K metal-epoxy, metal-klay
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Regards, Flo / 79 SC streetrod - Frankfurt, Germany Instagram: @elvnmisfit |
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83 911 Production Cab #10
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I've seen this one on some one else thread, same problem. I think it was R-mm
Can remember how he solve it but it might have been JB Weld. Here is the link: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/772047-1st-drop-top-end-observations-questions-4.html
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Who Will Live... Will See ![]() ![]() ![]() 83 911 Production Cab #10, Slightly Modified: Unslanted, 3.2, PMO EFI, TECgt, CE 911 CAM Sync / Pulley / Wires, SSI, Dansk Sport 2/2, 17" Euromeister, CKO GT3 Seats, Going SOK Super Charger Last edited by JJ 911SC; 02-12-2014 at 03:00 PM.. |
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83 911 Production Cab #10
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OK, find it... Check Post 290 and next he 30.
Actually, thanks to R-mm, the whole thread is a nice read.
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Who Will Live... Will See ![]() ![]() ![]() 83 911 Production Cab #10, Slightly Modified: Unslanted, 3.2, PMO EFI, TECgt, CE 911 CAM Sync / Pulley / Wires, SSI, Dansk Sport 2/2, 17" Euromeister, CKO GT3 Seats, Going SOK Super Charger |
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so. I can report: all is tight and dry.
I hope this is a long time reward, as I am a bit fed up now... I just cant crawl under the car every day as its has been the lasst 2 month (finding time next to family and work). to round up the percentage of doing well, I also changed the valve cover seals. thus I also checked the valve play and head studs. all is good. right top ![]() right bottom ![]() left top ![]() left bottom
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Regards, Flo / 79 SC streetrod - Frankfurt, Germany Instagram: @elvnmisfit |
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hello!
I have one last issue... maybe a neglectable/minor one in your eyes, but I dont want to surrender! As you see above, I#ve replaced the valve cover gaskets. After the first test drive, I noticed some oil dripping from the lower corner at the left bottom. OK, after cooling down, I retorqued the nuts. Astonishingly, most of them felt like they really needed a retorque, still 10Nm (how's that?!). Today, I did the second test drive... and comimg back, again, I found that drip!! What worries me is, that the head is oilwet from BEHIND. So the oil does not leak through the outer edges of the gasket. May it leak through the "center" of the valvecover? Should I take it off and check its alignment on a glass? Or do I have a more worrying issue (cylinderhead)?!
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Regards, Flo / 79 SC streetrod - Frankfurt, Germany Instagram: @elvnmisfit |
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no idea? anyone?
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Regards, Flo / 79 SC streetrod - Frankfurt, Germany Instagram: @elvnmisfit |
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Has it leaked from there previously that you know of? If not then it may need a re-seat...
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Goose- "nothing a year in the tropics wouldn't fix" |
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sorry, what exactly do you mean be "re-seat" ?
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Regards, Flo / 79 SC streetrod - Frankfurt, Germany Instagram: @elvnmisfit |
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Hiya Flo,
I am going through the same set of processes with my 1985 Ruf Carrera. Your leak on your LHS cover is exactly the same leak that I have and now I am fedup with it. I found the mating surfaces of the cover to be somewhat corroded and not all a mirror finish. Mine was leaking from the same place as well as from all studs. The most severe leak was from the bottom-most-forward studs. It leaks quite a bit after running the engine and then a slow weep when standing. Frustrating. The excess oil collects at the forward most end where the leak persists - the stain on the cover bears witness to where the standing oil sits. I now have the cover off and I have my Dremel out and I am polishing the mating surfaces to a mirror finish - I am being careful to only polish and not make the suface uneven. From my experience in my day job working with large oil filled transformers, if you do not remove all the gunk from the mating surface, you are introducing a leak after a number of heat cycles. My surfaces have minor gunk and corrosion just the same as yours. My cover casting is best described as rough. I have most gunk around the bottom-most posts. Mine look about the same as yours - 30 years of heat cycles, wet roads and mechanics who do not have time to surface prep the area. The job is a no-brainer PITA working with 1500 grit water paper, brake cleaner as a lubricant (I do not use water around open covers) and now I am about to unleash the Dremel with a light fibre polishing wheel. The LHS has taken 3 hours so far. When complete, the new gasket supplied by our host will be installed with new washers and nuts. Incidentally, the new gasket has a silicon bead on it - perhaps pointing to many others having a similar problem... Cheers Pezza |
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I like the all silicone reusable seals from our host. I feel they seal better.
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RGruppe #79 '73 Carrera RS spec 2.7 MFI 00 Saab 95 Aero wagon stick 01 Saab 95 Aero wagon auto 03 Boxster 90 Chevy PU Prerunner....1990 |
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Pezza, thanks for the hint to "mirror finish" the surface where the seal is gonna sit on.
Honestly, I was aware of that, as it was obvious to me that the surface must be as clean/even as most possible can be. So I did clean it, believing it was best I could. But as I (stil) have that on-drop-leak on both sides, I'm now really believing that this must be reasoned in a leaking rocker shaft seal. I will re-attend that, when the next service interval is sceduled by end of october. So right now I have my cloth and the brake-cleaner at hand for the clean up ritual after every drive...
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Regards, Flo / 79 SC streetrod - Frankfurt, Germany Instagram: @elvnmisfit |
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