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Always Be Fixing Cars
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: SE CT
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Also has anyone replaced this part, called "pipeline" 930 110 328 05 ?

I'd rather not pay $145 for a new assembly if I can just replace the hose, which is cracked. It appears that the hose itself is stepped ? Has anyone dealt with this?

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Old 09-25-2013, 08:45 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #61 (permalink)
Smoove1010
 
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On the flywheel: The definitive word on that is it's OK to resurface IF you update to a spring-centered disk, and as long as the machinist cuts both the contact surface and the lip that the PP mounts to.

Great progress!
Old 09-26-2013, 02:41 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #62 (permalink)
Spiderman
 
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Just my 2 cents. If you have any docs. that the fuel lines aren't "that" old, meaning have been replaced previously, I wouldn't replace them. (you are now an engine removal expert anyway)
I actually purchased a rubber center clutch disc. from someone that had a newer barely used one and remember, they were OEM and lasted many years originally. They get some bad press now when they get very old and fail which of course everything does anyway. Your call.
Think I've seen comments that rubber ones "feel" better/different vs. spring ones when engaging. My rubber unit failed after maybe 60k miles/10 years/ and alot of DE's but luckily it still got me home as it wasn't a complete separation.
Good find on that vac. hose, surely looks like something you could replace more cost effectively than +100 $$. I'd do some searching.
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Old 09-26-2013, 05:18 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #63 (permalink)
Always Be Fixing Cars
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jesse16 View Post
Just my 2 cents. If you have any docs. that the fuel lines aren't "that" old, meaning have been replaced previously, I wouldn't replace them. (you are now an engine removal expert anyway)
I actually purchased a rubber center clutch disc. from someone that had a newer barely used one and remember, they were OEM and lasted many years originally. They get some bad press now when they get very old and fail which of course everything does anyway. Your call.
Think I've seen comments that rubber ones "feel" better/different vs. spring ones when engaging. My rubber unit failed after maybe 60k miles/10 years/ and alot of DE's but luckily it still got me home as it wasn't a complete separation.
Good find on that vac. hose, surely looks like something you could replace more cost effectively than +100 $$. I'd do some searching.
Jesse - you read my mind re clutch. This is a street car and I want the clutch to be as friendly as possible. I hate chatter etc and I was all set to use another rubber clutch disc but didn't see one sold on PP. I was just on google as I read this and found this kit, which seems to be a good deal at $764:
Sachs - Auto Parts Warehouse
Where did you get your rubber centered disc from?

Also, I hope this isn't bad manners... but... I do see the spring centered clutch disc kit for up to $100 less than it's listed on PP. Don't worry, four figure sums will be spent on PP regardless, and I'll ask them to price match. https://importecautoparts.com/parts/part_number/950%20116%20911%2001/3
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Old 09-26-2013, 05:27 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #64 (permalink)
Spiderman
 
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I was posting my clutch saga 2 years back and "KTL" on the forum responded that he had one and a nice pressure plate that he'd taken off someones car fairly new. He sold it all to me for a very nice price and threw in a couple of used throw out bearings. I used one of his and the pressure plate since it looked a bit nicer than mine. If the clutch lasts 5 years or so, I'll be happy. I know how to get it apart now so no biggie. You might post on the classifieds whether anyone has a newer rubber clutch laying around, think some get taken off during "while you're in there" activities and they are still in good shape.
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Old 09-26-2013, 07:25 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #65 (permalink)
Spiderman
 
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Looked at that auto parts site, I'd be suspicious whether that photo is accurate. Sometimes its a "stock" photo vs. actual part. You might call them to confirm first. Like I said, I got mine from a forum member who has a shop.
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Old 09-26-2013, 07:28 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #66 (permalink)
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I found the full kit for $685 on Amazon. Given their excellent customer service and free 2 day shipping (prime membership), I'm going to give it a shot. After thinking this through and reading this thread I'm comfortable going forward with the rubber clutch. I'm pretty sure the one in my photo was the original and this longish post summarizes my feelings exactly. Peter Zimmerman weighing in on this side doesn't hurt either.

http://www.amazon.com/Sachs-W0133-1597118-SAC-Clutch-Kit/dp/B001HRH1XY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1380207297&sr=8-1&keywords=W0133-1597118

http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/911-forum/274378-gear-rattle.html
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Last edited by r-mm; 09-26-2013 at 07:34 AM..
Old 09-26-2013, 07:31 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #67 (permalink)
Always Be Fixing Cars
 
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Made something cool

I lasercut some acrylic cover plates for the intake ports on the heads. Fit perfectly! Watch your valves in action!

I could be convinced to cut up some more for anyone who has made it this far in my thread and answered my interminable questions.

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Old 09-26-2013, 01:24 PM
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Personally I would replace the clutch for peace of mind. Inspect the flywheel and machine as needed, and replace the pilot bearing. Consider throwout bearing age/miles for replacement (WIIT... While I'm In There) and let the fuel line slide.
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Old 09-27-2013, 09:59 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #69 (permalink)
Always Be Fixing Cars
 
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I went ahead and ordered the new Sachs rubber clutch kit from amazon for $685. Will report on fit Tuesday. Going to do the pilot bearing as well. On these cars does one press it out as in hydraulically?

I'll likely re-hose and FI clamp the fuel lines.
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Old 09-27-2013, 10:02 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #70 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r-mm View Post
I went ahead and ordered the new Sachs rubber clutch kit from amazon for $685. Will report on fit Tuesday. Going to do the pilot bearing as well. On these cars does one press it out as in hydraulically?

I'll likely re-hose and FI clamp the fuel lines.
Use a pilot bearing puller.
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Old 09-27-2013, 10:06 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #71 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yelcab1 View Post
Use a pilot bearing puller.
Did not know such a thing existed. Thanks.

I found what I believe to be the correct Bosch crank position sensor on amazon for $55. Yes the picture is wrong, but the part number coincides with what many Pelicans have said is a workable replacement and amazon ships free both ways so I ordered one as a test. Will report back Tuesday.

Bosch 0261210002 Reference Mark Sensor : Amazon.com : Automotive
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Old 09-27-2013, 10:09 AM
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Think I saw a fix resendly

Quote:
Originally Posted by r-mm View Post
Also has anyone replaced this part, called "pipeline" 930 110 328 05 ?

I'd rather not pay $145 for a new assembly if I can just replace the hose, which is cracked. It appears that the hose itself is stepped ? Has anyone dealt with this?

I maybe wrong however, I think I saw a post were John Walker used a shrink wrap fix on that hose.
Old 09-27-2013, 10:46 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #73 (permalink)
Always Be Fixing Cars
 
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You are quite right - Smoove1010 put me onto this thread: Repair vs Replacement options for this part?
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Old 09-27-2013, 10:47 AM
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Lots of progress since my last post. Got the motor up on my HF 750# stand & ebay yoke - fit is perfect. Got all the HX nuts off, some with their studs, no drama with PBlaster & MAPP torch. Cleaning up the front of the case before removing the rocker arms. I just mocked up the 8mm/5mm allen keys to remove the rockers to make sure mine fit - the 8mm side looks awfully shallow and the bolt heads themselves look slightly oxidized. Are these stubborn fasteners? I'd hate to have won the war with the HX only to strip one of these.

A few terrible phone pics:


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Old 10-08-2013, 06:22 PM
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Regarding the rocker shaft fasteners: remember that you turn the 5mm screw, you use a hex key to hold the 8mm nut stationary. On mine, the 8mm nut barely wanted to turn at all due to the mild corrosion holding it all in place. The 5mm key goes securely into the screw head, though the screw heads on mine needed to be cleaned out a little bit.

Keep that momentum going!
GK
Old 10-08-2013, 06:32 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #76 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smoove1010 View Post
Regarding the rocker shaft fasteners: remember that you turn the 5mm screw, you use a hex key to hold the 8mm nut stationary. On mine, the 8mm nut barely wanted to turn at all due to the mild corrosion holding it all in place. The 5mm key goes securely into the screw head, though the screw heads on mine needed to be cleaned out a little bit.

Keep that momentum going!
GK
Thanks! So you didn't have any problems getting these out? Does heat help here? Presuming yes as this is also a steel fastener in an alum threaded part.
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Old 10-09-2013, 07:33 AM
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I had no problems with this, other than to clean the crud out of the screw and nut heads to make sure the allen keys got good purchase. The fasteners came right out. I was very careful that I didn't damage the rocker shafts or their bores when removing the shafts - sliding them out through the narrow-flange side helped a lot since the bore in the narrow flange is somewhat protected from any oxidation/corrosion. Some very gentle heat (like from a heat gun, not a torch) might help here, but I didn't need that.
Old 10-09-2013, 09:51 AM
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Always Be Fixing Cars
 
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All rockers are out, cam nuts are loosened.

I wasn't quite prepared for the next steps:
-Lock tensioner down using 3mm pin through hole in tensioner body (I don't think my chanellocks are big enough... are pliers the best way to do this?) I'm pretty sure I have a 3mm punch.

-Then what? Bentley doesn't say - presume I remove the single large hex on the tensioner?

-Special tool P204 can be used to brace idler sprocket before removing tensioner (is this required? I can't quite tell what its doing... just holding the spr0cket in place while the tensioner is slacked?).

-Remove cam sprocket lockpin using P212 oe equiv - what would this be to civilians?




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Old 10-09-2013, 05:49 PM
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Major Milestone

Heads are off!

For anyone reading this...

-Tensioners can simply be (carefully) pryed off, no need to compress/pin them
-Chain ramps are not secured by fasteners but are sticky. I find my plastic "interior trim" prybar kit is a godsend for stuff like this and prevents me from reaching for the metal one
-Woodruff key SUCKS to get out. I started it with tiny pliers then whacked at the free end with a punch and small deadblow
-Cam retainer plate (retained by 3 screws) isn't dying to come off. Heat helped a lot, as did putting the bolt back into the cam to give me something to pull it out with.

Besides that, its pretty easy!

Looks like I have the KS Alusil pistons. I confess I don't know which side of the piston the marking are on but they are certainly an even light gray. Anyone care to comment on the condition of the heads and cylinders?







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Old 10-10-2013, 07:20 PM
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