Lowered the idle, now I get engine clunking?

[DRACO A5OG]

"clunk" like a rattling metal trash cans?

Take a video clip of it and post it.

[scarceller]

Can you tell what area the clunk is from?
I agree with Draco, try to do a video or sound recording of the problem.

[TheSt|G]

Agreed that a recording makes sense, I'll see what I can do tonight. Describing a sound in text is always pretty worthless.

As for location, its pretty hard to pin point. I used my stethoscope on each of the intake runners and just got the sound of cold tappy valves, so it doesn't appear to be coming from one of the cylinders specifically.

[CCM911]

What would happen if you removed the Wong chip and put the original back in? Or are we past that point, due to the 4k mod?

[scarceller]

If the DME was 2K with the 2K chip and it was Modified for the 4K chip you can't just put in the 2K chip. You need to undo the modification. Or better yet obtain a factory 4K chip if possible, if you have a SW 4K chip and a factory 4K chip you can swap them whenever you like.

This is exactly why when I convert DMEs to 8K 1989 chip specs with the 28pin chip I always deliver the DME with the factory 8K chip and then any other of my perf chips of choice.

But I doubt the SW 4K chip is the source of the clunking issue. The SW chips are well done and are a good product. Not sure why you want to go back to a factory chip? Although I agree it's a very nice option to be able to go back to factory chip.

[TheSt|G]

Originally Posted by CCM911

What would happen if you removed the Wong chip and put the original back in? Or are we past that point, due to the 4k mod?

Past that point unless I solder the board again. Frankly, I'd rather not as those ECU case tabs only have so many flexes in them before they break off. I also doubt it is the chip as I've had it in for a few months already with no issue.

[scarceller]

To save the tabs on the case I don't crimp them back, I simply use a large tie wrap to hold the case in place. This way if you open the case again you just cut the tie-wrap. Or better yet get a long Velcro strap.

Originally Posted by TheSt|G

Past that point unless I solder the board again. Frankly, I'd rather not as those ECU case tabs only have so many flexes in them before they break off. I also doubt it is the chip as I've had it in for a few months already with no issue.

[TheSt|G]

Originally Posted by scarceller

To save the tabs on the case I don't crimp them back, I simply use a large tie wrap to hold the case in place. This way if you open the case again you just cut the tie-wrap. Or better yet get a long Velcro strap.

Not a bad idea. Either way though, I suspect it isn't related at this time.

[CCM911]

How old is your battery?

[TheSt|G]

Originally Posted by CCM911

How old is your battery?

6 Months.

[CCM911]

If it is running well enough to drive, you can bring it by this evening and we could all brainstorm on it. I have the Bentley and the Pelican Forum at hand.

[TheSt|G]

Originally Posted by CCM911

If it is running well enough to drive, you can bring it by this evening and we could all brainstorm on it. I have the Bentley and the Pelican Forum at hand.

It is an excellent offer, but I'm a bit hesitant to drive it around until I have some idea of where the clunking is coming from. The fact it goes away with any amount of revs seems encouraging though.

[wayner]

Something similar happened with a friends car of a different brand.

He stalled it by slipping off the clutch by accident. Then, it wouldn't turn over after using the starter motor

Eventually we push started it and it had an ungodly clatter.


It turned out to be the clutch. Apparently when he stalled it he sheered the rivets that hold the clutch plates together. It was old and just suddenly failed when his foot slipped off the clutch and it violently engaged.

No other damage, just a blown clutch pack.

If that is the situation with yours it may be that at speed it sits properly but moved around without the centrifugal force from turning higher RPMs?

[TheSt|G]

Originally Posted by wayner

Something similar happened with a friends car of a different brand.

He stalled it by slipping off the clutch by accident. Then, it wouldn't turn over after using the starter motor

Eventually we push started it and it had an ungodly clatter.


It turned out to be the clutch. Apparently when he stalled it he sheered the rivets that hold the clutch plates together. It was old and just suddenly failed when his foot slipped off the clutch and it violently engaged.

No other damage, just a blown clutch pack.

If that is the situation with yours it may be that at speed it sits properly but moved around without the centrifugal force from turning higher RPMs?

Interesting thought, I'll get the stethoscope and poke around down there. I didn't notice anything weird about the clutch when I pulled it around into the garage, but frankly I was focusing on the engine.

[CCM911]

Any updates? Do we need to get a group to come by and analyze the situation?

[DRACO A5OG]

You can remove the ac belt and listen then fan belt and listen ( but for a a minute or two no longer ).

CCM, he will come around eventually " you can lead a horse..."