spacewise, this front cooler looks almost impossible to install. There's just not enough room up there.

You'd need to cut the front trunk area out and put a oil cooler panel there for that otherwise add one in the fender. If you can weld do the front cooler.

I'm only running a front cooler in my 1974 with 1995 3.6. Never gets hot in south Texas heat.

Can I get away with just the one fender cooler on a trip from SD to Monterey? Then add an additional fender or front mount after I get back?

I'm pretty adamant about not cutting anymore chassis. I'd rather put dual fender coolers in there.

That's good to know. Front mount is better as there is lots of fresh air there. Fender needs help.

If you can't cut the front then it needs to be fender mount. How big is the rx7 cooler? Perhaps we could do some horse trading.

I don't know about just the fender cooler.

You should talk to Kinninger. He built the blue "smurf" car that AXs at Qualcom. He works at Black Forest.

I have an RX-7 cooler mounted to the front of my '71. I did not mod the tub and it fits in my front bumper. Works well. Plumbing is tight on the long hoods due to the battery box. I actually have room for a larger cooler.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1440978368.jpg
Not my car but it shows the plumbing.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1440978481.jpg

Always tought the RX7 cooler were good enought for 3L not for 3.6

3.0 has engine Cooler too. 3.6 does not.

You will need two. I have one in each fender and am considering adding a fan to one side for traffic situations. I wouldn't risk running with just one cooler.

Noted. Thanks!

I ran just the single stock carrera oil cooler for a little while. It was fine in cooler weather or while moving but not sufficient while stuck in traffic in 90 degree temps.

I'm told that I can use the RS bumper, but I have to really trim it to get it to work.

Does anyone know if I can use the stock 993 engine tin? I can't seem to find any good 3.2 tin at the moment.

You need to modify them a bit.
Chop down the rear section so its level with the side tins and remove the heater duct.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1441173685.jpg

I also needed to chop down the front section half an inch, not the whole length but until the curve at the ends.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1441173836.jpg

From the curved section I needed to extend the tins to fit the seal.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1441174002.jpg

And since I'm not keeping the power steering pump a big hole was left that I needed to fabricate a new tin for.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1441174347.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1441174097.jpg

Not sure everyone needs to cut the front tins, I have a G50 and maybe the engine isn't in the exact same position as someone with a 915.

Magnus...THANK YOU. It's exactly what I needed. You rock.

Your welcome!

Michael,

Keep in mind that Magnus is also using the 993 engine console and crossmember. Fitment changes quite a bit when using a 3.2 engine console and crossmember.

You'll probably go with one of these setups:

964/993 tins (modified) + 964/993 crossmember (modified) + 964/993 engine console + 1" spacers above crossmember

or

3.2 tins (modified) + 993 tins (donor pieces) + 3.2 crossmember + 3.2 console + single or double row crank pulley

Well, 964 console and crossmember (modified), but youre right.

I also have a spacer (about 1 inch) between the crossmember and body. Otherwise the side tins would hit, the intake would not fit under the parcel shelf, and the gearbox would hit the shock tower crossmember.
I think I have the engine in the right place, maybe I should use slightly thicker spacers.
Should have raised the crossmember when I was welding on it... Maybe I'll redo that.

Mine (10 years ago :)) was 3.2 tin and rear cross-brace.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/207216-mirage-911-rsr-project-pics-4.html

Circles around modified areas.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1441202154.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1441202173.jpg

plug wires routed 3.2 style.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1441202189.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1441202208.jpg

Oops, I forgot about the 1" spacers that are needed with the 964/993 console and crossmember. I just added them to my post above. My '88 cab with '97 VRam engine runs this setup.

When I've installed 3.6 engines with 964 or '95 993 intakes and 3.2 console and crossmembers then the 1" crossmember spacers can be optional. Instead I generally make an upward indention in the chassis parcel shelf using a 4x4 and a floor jack to provide additional clearance without needing crossmember spacers.

My experience is limited to '77-'88 cars so the '69 install (rear parcel shelf) may be different.

Easy to forget stuff, there are sooo many things that needs tweaking on a project like this...
Even with the spacer I had to make a little indentation in the parcel shelf...

I use spacers with the 3.2 console/crossmember on my 3.6, but I think the varioram intake is taller.

Yes the varioram intake is taller requiring spacers and/or modifying the parcel shelf.

Here's an example of what Patrick Motorsports has done to avoid using crossmember spacers with the varioram intake:

https://patrickms.s3.amazonaws.com/p...g_tray_mod.jpg

No Varioram for me. It's a 95 engine.

*hint hint* Michael you'll probably need to clearance the '69 parcel shelf a wee bit to install your '95 engine.

Here's a pic of a 964 engine in a '77 chassis using 3.2 console/crossmember and no crossmember spacers. You can't see in the pic but the parcel shelf was clearanced using a 4x4 (although not technically needed with the 964 intake).

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1301662674.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1299248326.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1299248343.jpg

ditto had the same clearance issue on on my 69 with a 95 non vr.

Ok, noted on the clearance. Clarence.


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UPDATE:

making major progress on the car. We are getting down to crunch time, and ready for the installation. Some final cleanup was routing the DME through the chassis:

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09...a8df115012.jpg

And then, I wanted to clean up the fan housing and fan itself. It was in really bad shape. Here's what the fan look like before:

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09...86576d69f3.jpg

Not exactly a pretty sight!

I used stripper to remove the paint, and followed up with some fine grit sandpaper:

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09...56b777c47a.jpg

After getting the fan and housing cleaned up, I rattle canned the paint into something far more better looking:

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09...743eb992eb.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09...8f72c98b4b.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09...2b6e94babd.jpg

This weekend, we are making the final preparation, for a potential install on Monday. One thing I don't have yet is extended studs to mount the transmission to the 3.6 L motor. I was going to go to McMaster Carr and order them, but I don't know exactly which ones to order. I also need longer studs for the engine console. Does anyone have any idea of what lengths I should order, and which studs I should order from them? There are so many I don't know which ones to choose.

Thanks, and I will see you for the next update.


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Just as I was typing this, the UPS (or the "brown Santa", as I call him) guy showed up with the Earls cooler I ordered yesterday. This is the 25000A cooler that I will use under my RSR front bumper. It looks like it will fit with a bit of modification to the bumper. And at $245, a reasonable price.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09...3a24dcd1c5.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09...bc7ae2e2a5.jpg

Will update on the install.

Here's a shot I took of the engine and conversion (note the video equipment...hmmm) at Jae Lee's Mirage International here in San Diego:

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09...77903d2499.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09...4c92d95880.jpg


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If you need a local source for bolts check out Marshall's hardware, they are in Miramar not far from Jae's shop. Also Ababa bolt in El Cajon.

I've been to Marshall's, and will probably size these up there. Hopefully they have em.


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Ps...Marshalls is Tool & Fabrication porn. Wow.


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Now is the time to get rid of the AC console, unless AC is retained of course. Either use the RS part or cut the one you have.

Also address any leaks, usual suspects are cam covers, tensioner bridges, oil console on top of the intake

Good results!

Here is how mine turned out after a bead blast and Gibbs oil. *Looked a bil like yours

http://i1037.photobucket.com/albums/...psa107bc70.jpg

Massive productivity today. A big fabrication day! Got the front oil cooler mounted, the hard lines installed, the fan housing / alternator installed, and customized the crossmember for the dual coils.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09...638a4ab1e6.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09...5bb54cc915.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09...710838d77d.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09...ca89022710.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09...fbe598465e.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09...24b164d233.jpg


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http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09...f4288d91e2.jpg


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Michael,
Can you please post some close-up pics of what modifications you had to do with the engine tin? I know pics were posted by Ted for his conversion. I am hoping to see what tin you used and what you had to do to make the engine fit as I am thinking of doing a backdate to a '75 with a '95 non-vr motor.
TIA.

There's an air vent on the 3.6 L engine that leads from the top of the fan shroud down into the heat exchanger. Since I'm getting rid of the heat on my car I need to cover a big hole up. Jae's idea is to pull out all the rubber and plug it with a piece of Kevlar. So here's my attempt. This is the original piece with the rubber broken off.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09...f66b8c2708.jpg

And, after about 10 minutes of finagling, here's the rubber completely removed.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09...76627ad284.jpg

I used a piece of paper to make a rough template, and ran my finger around the edges. Then I glued the paper onto the backside of the Kevlar so it wouldn't move as I was cutting it out.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09...88dca3be59.jpg

Here is the rough-cut:

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09...0e68b1bcc4.jpg

After about 10 minutes of trimming, grinding and otherwise inhaling too much fiberglass the piece is about finished:

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09...f4715ad720.jpg

I've glued it just to keep it in place so tomorrow I can rivet it. And I threw a few clamps on there to hold it overnight. I probably could've used JB weld to secure it but hopefully this works. Once it's riveted I will silicone the backside to keep it secure and make an airtight.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09...d925607c12.jpg

We are getting very close. I'm just waiting for a new clutch to come in, and a few oil line connectors.


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