Engine Yoke Question.

crashr · 11-24-2002, 07:19 PM

I searched through all the engine yoke threads and there is definitely one thing in common. No one wants to spend $240 dollars on an engine yoke, but when they eventually do they are extremely happy with it. Just by reading some of the articles I have already convinced myself that I will have to by one. My question is with how it holds the engine. I have seen some pics of it, but never with it attached to an engine. Does it hold all four bolts? When you split the case will it support it and how?

slakjaw · 11-24-2002, 07:35 PM

if you are looking at your motor from the rear the yoke mounts to the right hand side (i think) and it is supported by the studs that go thru the bell housing

LATE
K

crashr · 12-10-2002, 05:36 PM

Does anyone have pics of the yoke mounted on the engine? The yoke just came in the mail today but I won't be back by my car until this weekend and I'm just trying to figure out how it will attach to engine. The bolt that comes out is on the right if you are looking at the flywheel so I was assuming that you attach it on the left hand side where both of the studs are fixed. Does this sound right? There is also a third smaller hole on the one side and a cut out section on the other... what are these here for?
Why did they not design this to go through all of the studs? Will the two studs hold the hole engine?

Scott Clarke · Scott Clarke's Garage

Dennis-
The yoke only has one stud to work with. The other point of attachment is with a bolt. The hole in the yoke should line up with a hole in the case (where the starter is bolted, I think). As someone previously said, the yoke attaches to the right case half (if memory serves). I don't remember why this is, but it does matter as it facilitates tearing down the motor. I know it seems unlikely that two fasteners can do the job, but think of it this way: in the car the whole deal is being held by just four fasteners, and the car is doing things like going over bumps.

PORSHIN · 12-10-2002, 08:30 PM

Here is a pic of the engine attached to the yoke. The two studs don't have any problem holding it. It does a great job!

crashr · 12-10-2002, 08:37 PM

Ok, I just want to confirm this... one of the previous post talks about the yoke going

"from the rear the yoke mounts to the right hand side"

Isn't this the rear of the engine in this pic with the yoke mounted on the left side. This would be the side with the two studs on the 2.7 (the same side the starter came off of). Am I just misunderstanding or is this pic (3.2 I'm guessing) just specific to the 3.2 enginge. My engine is a 2.7 by the way.

PORSHIN · 12-10-2002, 08:41 PM

That is the right side. Every thing on a car is relative to the position you would be sitting in the car. You sit in the left side so the starter...and the engine yoke are on the right side. As you are facing the back of the engine, it would be on your left.

Wayne 962 · Wayne 962's Garage

A couple of things -

The comment about the bolt is wrong - there should be two studs in each half. Someone incorrectly removed the stud and replaced it with a bolt at some time.

The yoke is the way to go - if you want to recoup your $$$ you can always sell it later on, in eBay...

The yoke should be attached to the right side, right near the oil cooler...

-Wayne

crashr · 12-11-2002, 06:19 AM

Can someone tell me the name of the stud. I should obiously replace the bolt that someone jimmyed in place of the stud. I was serching PP for it but could not find it?

ChrisBennet · ChrisBennet's Garage

The engine yoke is the way to go.
On aluminum cased engines I just remove the two studs and use bolts.
On magnesium cases (like your '75) removing those studs will likely take the threads with it so leave the studs alone. (Timesert any loose studs.)
The exhaust flange on SC and '84-89 Carrera motors will interfere with the yoke. I grind away material from the yoke and then repaint the yoke.
-Chris

crashr · 12-11-2002, 07:10 AM

Chris, I think I should clarify my question.

From what I have read from Wayne's post is that someone has replaced the top passenger side stud with a bolt on my 2.7. Never having rebuilt a 2.7 engine before I thought at first this was just factory. My question is; Does anyone know the exact name or have a link to where on the PP site that they sell them. I assume that the stud is much stronger then just the bolt that was added. The bolt threads in fine so I'm pretty sure the threads in the case are still good.

ChrisBennet · ChrisBennet's Garage

Quote:

Originally posted by crashr
Chris, I think I should clarify my question.

From what I have read from Wayne's post is that someone has replaced the top passenger side stud with a bolt on my 2.7. Never having rebuilt a 2.7 engine before I thought at first this was just factory. My question is; Does anyone know the exact name or have a link to where on the PP site that they sell them. I assume that the stud is much stronger then just the bolt that was added. The bolt threads in fine so I'm pretty sure the threads in the case are still good.

Hmmm, I think a '74 I worked on had a bolt in that position.

I believe that 3 of the engine studs are the same length ("short") and the 4th one is longer for the starter. Sooo, the missing stud should be the same length as the other two "short" studs. In other words, it will be the same stud as was used for the lower two studs.
-Chris

crashr · 12-11-2002, 07:34 AM

Ya that sounds about right. The starter thread is definitely longer than the rest of the threads. So your 74 had a bolt in the same position... Now I am confused.

12-11-2002, 07:38 AM

The question I haven't seen asked is why someone doesn't build a knockoff and sell it for $69.95. I do understand the concept of the tool, but cannot figure how it gets to $230 (Wayne, I'm not knocking your prices). It looks to me like about $20 in steel and 2 hours in the shop and I could have my very own.

crashr · 12-11-2002, 07:40 AM

The only thing I can say about it is... Man is this thing a beast... The pics of it (Like the one above) don't do this thing justice... This tool is big !

Rick Lee · Rick Lee's Garage

Quote:

Originally posted by Mark Wilson
The question I haven't seen asked is why someone doesn't build a knockoff and sell it for $69.95. I do understand the concept of the tool, but cannot figure how it gets to $230 (Wayne, I'm not knocking your prices). It looks to me like about $20 in steel and 2 hours in the shop and I could have my very own.

Please do this project and I'll buy one when it's successfully produced. But I can't say I'll be using my 3.2 as the guinea pig on the first one you make.

limble · 12-11-2002, 10:06 AM

I'm doing a rebuild on my 911 2.2. Will a standard engine stand work? I thought that I read that a regular stand might do damage to the casing. If I have to use a Porsche yoke will the daddy thing on the yoke fit the mommy thing on the standard engine stand? Does anyone have one they want to sell? Loan?
Rent?
I'd be willing to build a plate if someone can trace the half-moon shape that bolts to the engine.
I know it's easier to go buy one but I live in Minnesota where people trip over themselves looking for a winter project to keep from getting cabin fever.

crashr · 12-11-2002, 10:16 AM

I'll just respond with the answer I was given a couple of weeks ago when I was trying to decide whether to buy one or not or mod a cheepo stand. First of all if you do buy the yoke, even after you are done with it, you could sell it and get pretty much all your money back. Also I was told that you probably shouldn't just use the arms of the cheepo stand because all the weight is concentrated on a few small areas where as the yoke spreads the weight distribution across a larger area. I know people have said that they have been fine in using a modified stand but most of these people had a 3.0 litre which ismade from aluminum which is stronger than the magnesium used on the 2.7. With respect to the 2.2 I'm not sure but I'm sure the advice you will get from the veteran P-guys is to buy the yoke.

jim72911t · 12-11-2002, 10:53 AM

The reason no one has produced a cheap knockoff is most likely that it would be difficult to do inexpensively and safely. That big semi-circular piece is actually a piece of machined steel that has contours that fit the engine case exactly. Steel takes some time to machine, and time equals $. The male portion that fits into a standard engine stand (yes, it fits into mine) is also a piece of machined tubing. The four arms are mandrel bent and the welds are strong.
I'm only guessing at the method of manufacture, of course, but as a manufacturing engineer who quotes all jobs that come into our shop, I decided that it wasn't worth the bother to try and make one. Maybe if I had firm orders for a thousand units I'd give it a go, but for now my advice is to bite the bullet and buy one. It is a well made piece.

Jim

crashr · 12-13-2002, 05:18 PM

Ok I got home this weekend and was ready to put my engine on my engine stand with the new yoke I bought but before I got started I was looking at those threads on the right hand side and realized that even with the yoke on, the thread on them doesn't go anywhere near far enough to securly bolt it on. Do I have to Fab. some spacers for this or what have others done in the past?

Thank you ahead of time,
Dennis Moore