Classic Retrofit: Lightweight Electric Air Conditioning

[Nditiz1]

@SoyRacer - one you get to the prompt you can type LIST which will show you all the config items
MOD=0
Then the list should show Hi/Lo instead of climate

[Bill5900]

Every time I return here there are posts with people having trouble with CR. I’ve all but given up installing mine—$5000 is just sitting in the basement. Until Johnny gives us more than gratuitous tips, I don’t see how he can be proud of his system. It is categorically wrong to say that 1 condenser is good. You need two. (I don’t know if he’s still on that one). That’s just one issue-his refrain that this works you just need to keep trying this or that is frustrating. The system is under designed, any engineer can see that. Trying to package like he has to leave us trunk space was a total non-starter. I’ll give up the trunk because I believe that’s the right approach to getting an adequate system without a mechanical compressor, unless Johnny can get me an inverter that runs at the voltages of EVs.

[mysocal911]

Originally Posted by Bill5900

Every time I return here there are posts with people having trouble with CR. I’ve all but given up installing mine—$5000 is just sitting in the basement. Until Johnny gives us more than gratuitous tips, I don’t see how he can be proud of his system. It is categorically wrong to say that 1 condenser is good. You need two. (I don’t know if he’s still on that one). That’s just one issue-his refrain that this works you just need to keep trying this or that is frustrating. The system is under designed, any engineer can see that. Trying to package like he has to leave us trunk space was a total non-starter. I’ll give up the trunk because I believe that’s the right approach to getting an adequate system without a mechanical compressor, unless Johnny can get me an inverter that runs at the voltages of EVs.

Read here even more basic issues;
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/1143320-hot-positive-terminal-running-electric-cr-c.html

[Nditiz1]

@Bill - if you want to unload it I'd be happy to take I off your hands for an experiment.

[fromthebeginnin]

Are you saying the hardware alone costs $5000?


QUOTE=Bill5900;12052456]Every time I return here there are posts with people having trouble with CR. I’ve all but given up installing mine—$5000 is just sitting in the basement. Until Johnny gives us more than gratuitous tips, I don’t see how he can be proud of his system. It is categorically wrong to say that 1 condenser is good. You need two. (I don’t know if he’s still on that one). That’s just one issue-his refrain that this works you just need to keep trying this or that is frustrating. The system is under designed, any engineer can see that. Trying to package like he has to leave us trunk space was a total non-starter. I’ll give up the trunk because I believe that’s the right approach to getting an adequate system without a mechanical compressor, unless Johnny can get me an inverter that runs at the voltages of EVs.[/QUOTE]

[jrwilson]

Just for the record, it was 32C and humid today and my car was heat soaked. With the unit on high and set to center vent (which includes the SC vents) I had to turn it down to mid blower after 15 minutes because it was too cold.

There seem to be a lot of keyboard warriors spouting their opinion as facts but my reality is that the system works just fine even if on paper it’s not supposed to work. I just wish my real world results would shut them up but we all know they like the sound of their own voices more than actually listening.

[MikeD930]

Originally Posted by Bill5900

Every time I return here there are posts with people having trouble with CR. I’ve all but given up installing mine—$5000 is just sitting in the basement. Until Johnny gives us more than gratuitous tips, I don’t see how he can be proud of his system. It is categorically wrong to say that 1 condenser is good. You need two. (I don’t know if he’s still on that one). That’s just one issue-his refrain that this works you just need to keep trying this or that is frustrating. The system is under designed, any engineer can see that. Trying to package like he has to leave us trunk space was a total non-starter. I’ll give up the trunk because I believe that’s the right approach to getting an adequate system without a mechanical compressor, unless Johnny can get me an inverter that runs at the voltages of EVs.

Any DIY mechanic with basic knowledge of electrical wiring and A/C system (installing A/C lines, fittings and seals, etc) can install CR A/C. Plus you do not have to have two condensers...one condenser works fine. Having two condensers slightly reduces outlet temp.

Originally Posted by mysocal911

Read here even more basic issues;
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/1143320-hot-positive-terminal-running-electric-cr-c.html

It's getting tiresome seeing you being so negative about any minor issues that can be resolved.

Originally Posted by fromthebeginnin

Are you saying the hardware alone costs $5000?

This CR A/C kit is not cheap. I paid around $4k but that was 5 years ago. I'm glad I have this CR A/C kit (my car was formally a track/street car with removed A/C components by PO) and I did not want to have a compressor in the engine bay when I decided to add A/C.

[mysocal911]

Originally Posted by MikeD930

Any DIY mechanic with basic knowledge of electrical wiring and A/C system (installing A/C lines, fittings and seals, etc) can install CR A/C. Plus you do not have to have two condensers...one condenser works fine. Having two condensers slightly reduces outlet temp.




It's getting tiresome seeing you being so negative about any minor issues that can be resolved.




This CR A/C kit is not cheap. I paid around $4k but that was 3 years ago. I'm glad I have this CR A/C kit (my car was formally a track/street car with removed A/C components by PO) and I did not want to have a compressor in the engine bay when I decided to add A/C.

I'm just raising issues that you expressed concern about. Don't you think it's useful to better understand how your 12V A/C system really functions?
Remember, you started the following thread because of your concern about battery heating, right? And that issue doesn't appear to be fully understood.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/1143320-hot-positive-terminal-running-electric-cr-c-4.html

Read post #66.

[MikeD930]

Originally Posted by mysocal911

I'm just raising issues that you expressed concern about. Don't you think it's useful to better understand how your 12V A/C system really functions?
Remember, you started the following thread because of your concern about battery heating, right? And that issue doesn't appear to be fully understood.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/1143320-hot-positive-terminal-running-electric-cr-c-4.html

Read post #66.

Yes...I understand that a 12V electric A/C compressor can draw excess current but CR A/C will not do this. The CR A/C does not put out 2kW of cooling...it's much less than that at especially at idle.

As I just said in that thread...you keep beating on a dead horse saying that CR A/C has a big draw on the battery at idle causing high temp at the battery terminal. This is not what has been happening in my case. The CR A/C compressor will not run full capacity for long when it senses lower power input such as at idle. I would bring the engine rpm up with the throttle if I'm sitting at a long traffic light.

Seems you ignored my findings when I added the battery terminal adapter...

Positive battery terminal on battery:




Negative battery terminal on battery:

[Jonny H]

The cooling output is variable depending on what speed the ECU drives the compressor - the max input power on the standard settings is around 1000W. The compressor is rated 2600W cooling capacity.

From our install manual:

ECU

ElectroCooler’s ECU provides the necessary control to regulate the compressor speed in accordance to the power available from the charging system. Without the ECU, the compressor could run beyond the means of the alternator which would result in a flat battery. Either that, or the compressor would be run too slow and compromise the A/C performance.
The ECU contains an algorithm that adjusts the compressor speed (and thus current) based on alternator output, battery voltage, driving conditions and a number of other factors.

[carldrio]

Originally Posted by PICGC

I checked the bracket and there is enough clearance. I was able to video the sound - it is definitely coming from the smuggler's box. This video is a good example of what it sounds like (this is my first time uploading something to Youtube, let me know if it doesn't work). The compressor gets warm and the drier is hot to the touch with the AC on, if that makes a difference. If you would like me to video it from the other side looking down into the smuggler's box just let me know.

https://youtube.com/shorts/rNHIQM5jR3g?feature=share

My compressor started doing the exact same noises yesterday. Did you find a solution for this problem?

[Jonny H]

Originally Posted by carldrio

My compressor started doing the exact same noises yesterday. Did you find a solution for this problem?

As with most compressors, it is lubricated and cooled by the refrigerant. Check the amounts.

[needspeed]

Does the AC/blower unit have an air filter?

[Nditiz1]

It does not

[SoyRacer]

This is tremendously helpful - Thank you
-
I have stumbled upon an obstacle though . . . I've misplaced my communication cable -
Would you happen to know if one is available through Amazon or anywhere else ?
-
silly
-

Originally Posted by Nditiz1

@SoyRacer - one you get to the prompt you can type LIST which will show you all the config items
MOD=0
Then the list should show Hi/Lo instead of climate

[jrwilson]

Originally Posted by SoyRacer

I've misplaced my communication cable -
Would you happen to know if one is available through Amazon or anywhere else ?

No, it's custom and specific to the unit and cost me $100 to replace.

Why not just use a USB cable?

[phelix]

Has anyone come up with an alternate condensate drain solution? Both of my spigots have popped off and I would like to avoid having to remove the blower unit to reinstall them.

[Jonny H]

Originally Posted by needspeed

Does the AC/blower unit have an air filter?

There is space in the hood scoop for a narrow filter. Find a slim rectangular pollen filter on ebay - i think I have an Audi A6 one in my SC. Cut a strip of it and place in the inlet scoop behind the cowl grille.

[Jonny H]

Originally Posted by phelix

Has anyone come up with an alternate condensate drain solution? Both of my spigots have popped off and I would like to avoid having to remove the blower unit to reinstall them.

This is a Gen 1 blower issue. Believe it or not it is due to the occasional high silicone content in the powder coat. Scrape / abraid the powder coat and rebond the drain tubes with epoxy.

Later kits were supplied with an elbow that pushes into the drain tube. When you attach the right angle pieces, heat the black drain tube slightly.

The Gen 2 blower has a revised drain system.

[phelix]

Thanks for the reply. Are the parts shown in the photo below still the best answer? If yes, any suggestions on a source for replacements for the black bits? One of mine has the drain elbow solvent welded to it and I very much doubt there’s room to reinstall the the blower assembly with the elbow in place.


It's a shame there isn't a single drain that feeds straight into the factory drain tube that was used by the blower assembly. Perhaps using something like the factory headlamp and taillamp drain tubes.