Ken's 911E

[kkinzli]

Keep up the good work Ken!

[kghjr]

Leitz replica.

Had to make floor space for the snow blower

[Steve F]

Nice! I like that

[kghjr]

Thanks Steve, I had a brainstorm. The rack was in the shed, this way the wheels are out of the way and indoors. Plus, it's weird looking. The view from the street causes rubber necking and double takes by passers by.

First step, take things apart and see what's up. I like taking things apart while uncertain of returning them to working condition.

What about this piece? Back to black or bling it with color? It's getting bead blasted.


What's this thing with the three lines? Fuel pump? Looks electric.




I have an 11mm brake fitting wrench for all these brake line fittings


Preview of new vs old lines


Next step, read the manual about disassembling the front end.

[kghjr]

Originally Posted by kkinzli

Keep up the good work Ken!

Thanks, Kristoph. We'll go for that second drive in the Spring.

[Flojo]

Coverplate to fuelpump: powdercoat black

The "electric looking" is the fuelpump.

Scrape all that rusty looking body underside and coat with POR15.
Pray you need not weld tin.

[matthewb0051]

Originally Posted by kghjr

What's this thing with the three lines? Fuel pump? Looks electric.




.

Fuel pump, specific to MFI engines. One line is from tank, the other out to fuel filter console in engine bay, the third is the recirculation back from MFI pump.

There was a production re-run of these a couple of years ago. They had been NLA for some time.

That little f'er cost about $700

BTW, when you go to hook fuel lines back up search for the correct diagram for the lines in engine bay. There is an edition that was published and the lines are backward.

[kghjr]

Originally Posted by Flojo

Coverplate to fuelpump: powdercoat black

The "electric looking" is the fuelpump.

Scrape all that rusty looking body underside and coat with POR15.
Pray you need not weld tin.

Roger on the black powder coat. That was my original thought.

Originally Posted by matthewb0051

Fuel pump, specific to MFI engines. One line is from tank, the other out to fuel filter console in engine bay, the third is the recirculation back from MFI pump.

There was a production re-run of these a couple of years ago. They had been NLA for some time.

That little f'er cost about $700

BTW, when you go to hook fuel lines back up search for the correct diagram for the lines in engine bay. There is an edition that was published and the lines are backward.

Yikes, I will not be replacing the fuel pump but I will replace all the fuel lines and clamps in the engine bay.

Storz will hook it all up when they put the engine back in.

Thanks for the help. This forum is awesome.

[matthewb0051]

Originally Posted by kghjr

Yikes, I will not be replacing the fuel pump but I will replace all the fuel lines and clamps in the engine bay.

Storz will hook it all up when they put the engine back in.

Thanks for the help. This forum is awesome.

Just ensure you use fuel injection rated hose. The MFI system puts out a significantly higher PSI than does carbs. I learned this the hard way.

Not to disparage your wrench but I would provide a copy of the correct diagram or at least ask if they know about this issue. I did that and the mechanic still used the wrong one. When they were having issues with it running I asked if they used my diagram and was told no. Put the lines to correct and things got better quickly.

[matthewb0051]

Great thread on the correct MFI plumbing diagram. Post #1 shows the incorrect diagram.

Post #5 from Grady Clay shows the correct diagram.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/575329-mfi-fuel-delivery-system-question.html

[daepp]

I might add, the Porsche Classic re-run of MFI fuel pumps are said to made in China and highly unreliable. AFAIK I'm still on the OEM in mine - hope I never have to replace it!

[Trackrash]

I have heard that these pumps can be rebuilt. Might be worth looking into.

[matthewb0051]

Originally Posted by daepp

I might add, the Porsche Classic re-run of MFI fuel pumps are said to made in China and highly unreliable. AFAIK I'm still on the OEM in mine - hope I never have to replace it!

Yep, I have one that is still in the box because it works for a short amount of time then breaks again. Its been rebuilt once or twice but still won't work. It only sends fuel out of the recirculation outlet.

There is a vendor (Zims) that sells a pump that delivers the correct amount of PSI for MFI. However, it has no recirculation, so you must re-route that plumbing. Up side is it is about 1/4 the cost.

[kghjr]

Originally Posted by matthewb0051

Just ensure you use fuel injection rated hose. The MFI system puts out a significantly higher PSI than does carbs. I learned this the hard way.

Not to disparage your wrench but...

Thanks for the heads up. I bought the fuel line from Storz, it's OEM. With them being a dedicated Porsche shop for 40+ years, they probably know about the diagram but I will bring it up, mainly to show them I am doing a little research (with the help of my friends).

Bob and Mike both credit me with being the most engaged (to the details of the car) customer they have had in awhile. They lend me speciality tools if I just mention a task. He lent me the brake line wrench to use and I asked him to sell it to me; offered to buy him a new one the next time the tool guy came through. OK. That little tool has saved major headaches.

I'm just going to spiff-up the pump and put it all back with new hardware, lines and clamps. I nearly bought out the host of OEM clamps. I'm a sucker for details, even buried ones.

[kghjr]

Originally Posted by matthewb0051

Great thread on the correct MFI plumbing diagram. Post #1 shows the incorrect diagram.

Post #5 from Grady Clay shows the correct diagram.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/575329-mfi-fuel-delivery-system-question.html

Thanks, Matthew, this is what I mean about this being an awesome forum.

Anyone want to give their 2¢ on tips for removing the front suspension? It's ready...I'm not, but then I was not ready for the rear suspension either.

[Flojo]

oh Ken..., I guess you slightly see it coming that you're about to go all in?
That car is rusty. And much is probably still hidden. Can't recall but did you strip the interior? rear window seal/hat tray ok (and other classic spots)?

[matthewb0051]

Originally Posted by kghjr

Anyone want to give their 2¢ on tips for removing the front suspension? It's ready...I'm not, but then I was not ready for the rear suspension either.

The front is extremely straight forward. There is one special tool needed for the ball joint. Other than that, it's pretty easy.




P210 Ball Joint Nut Pin Wrench Socket, 1/2 Drive, 911 (1969-89), 914-4/6 (1970-76),

[matthewb0051]

BTW - I was very happy with Jerry Fairchild for my MFI pump work. Great prices and quicker than other vendor's turn around. Much quicker!

Fuel Injection Center Specializing in Mechanical Fuel Injection

[Shaun @ Tru6]

Originally Posted by kghjr

Thanks, Matthew, this is what I mean about this being an awesome forum.

Anyone want to give their 2¢ on tips for removing the front suspension? It's ready...I'm not, but then I was not ready for the rear suspension either.

Ken, I typically drop a front suspension whole but you may want to remove the struts first and then drop the A-arms and crossmember as a complete unit.

As a 69E, your car would have come from the factory with Boge hydro-pneumatic struts but those were probably replaced in 1971; my guess is you'll have later Boge struts in there now that are held to the ball joint with a beveled pin. First remove the tie rod end castle nuts and use a pickle fork to separate the tie rod from the strut arm. Then at the base of the strut, loosen the nut (13mm) on the pin and bring it out to the end of the threads. Use a punch and tap out the pin, throw the pin away. They can be pretty well seized so sometimes heat is needed on the strut knuckle that the pin tightens. Once the pin is out use a pickle fork to separate the strut from the ball joint. Again, heat may be needed to convince the strut it no longer wants anything to do with the ball joint.

If the strut has a hex recess at the top, insert an allen key and use a 22mm wrench to loosen the nut. Carefully hold the strut so it doesn't fall. You can also just remove the 3 allen head bolts and drop the strut with the mount. Given that the A-arms are coming out, you'll have to do an alignment anyway.

the A-arms and crossmember are easiest to drop as a unit and then easy to remove the arms from the crossmember on a bench. Just remember to unbolt to the steering rack from the crossmember. Do front of arms first and then the buttresses/stays and then the main bolt on each side of the crossmember. You may need to tap it with a mini-sledge to free it from the body.

[Trackrash]

Originally Posted by Shaun @ Tru6

............
As a 69E, your car would have come from the factory with Boge hydro-pneumatic struts but those were probably replaced in 1971; my guess is you'll have later Boge struts in there now that are held to the ball joint with a beveled pin. .........

Those were an option. Is there evidence that this car came with them? Probably a mute point. But it may be worth looking at the date stamp on the front struts, and documenting them, in order to accommodate future maintenance.

A buddy of mine has a car, a '71 E, that had them.

When it was converted there had do be custom gland nuts made to hold in the shock inserts. Also my friends car came with S brakes.

It does look like the struts have the tapered pin on the ball join from the picture in #444, however. That tapered pin started with the '72 MY.