my low budget dream car build

[Evan Fullerton]

If you keep stretching, 245 on a 9 in wheel fits. I have 18x8.5 ET25 front wheels.

If you don’t want to stretch it as much, 912 front hubs will move the wheel inboard 7mm but that only works with stock brake calipers and torsion bar front suspension.

[trj911]

Hi Chris, nice work! I'm in Carmel, I'll have to stop by for a visit sometime.

[chrisbalich]

Originally Posted by Jonny042

Talk about an innovation!!! A light bulb moment for sure! I like how Jim talked you into buying a fender roller and trying out his theory on your car LOL. All is well that ends well, it's a great idea!!!

However....using heat is generally going to shrink the metal and have the opposite effect of what you'd be trying to accomplish.

I feel the same way about Project Nasty! Love the front fender treatment. I've always felt like the factory did half a job when they added the Carrera Flares to the rear of the car without touching the front.

I've been able to stuff a 225 with an 8" wheel in the front but it still looks crammed. Can't wait to see this when you're finished!!

He's a clever guy for sure. Body work is black magic to me, so I defer to the experts for advice and then lean heavily on the idea that I can always have a pro unfork whatever I fork up. Full send into oblivion.
Also, I didn't use any heat. I've only ever used heat when rolling a fender to save the paint. As I could care less if I futz up the primer on these fenders, I just started rolling them to see what would happen. Good to know that heat will shrink the metal if I find myself in need of a little shrinkage.
I agree that Porsche quarter-a$$ed the front fenders when they pumped up the quarters after the middies. "If you want something done right...."

Originally Posted by Evan Fullerton

If you keep stretching, 245 on a 9 in wheel fits. I have 18x8.5 ET25 front wheels.

If you don’t want to stretch it as much, 912 front hubs will move the wheel inboard 7mm but that only works with stock brake calipers and torsion bar front suspension.

245 will be too tall for my taste. Generally a 235/40/17 is five or six mms wider than a 225/45/17 and similarly shorter. Overall height is a consideration as I plan to keep the car as close to Terra Firma as I can get away with.
I'd really like to keep the 245s out back, but I worry that the tires will look weird if I don't upsize them one size when I upsize the fronts.
As a data point, PN runs 235/265 on 18s. I don't make nearly the HP, so 235/255 should keep me between the mayo and mustard.

Originally Posted by trj911

Hi Chris, nice work! I'm in Carmel, I'll have to stop by for a visit sometime.

Thanks!
My garage is a bit of a disaster, so LMK in advance and I'll tidy up...or you'll not have anyplace to stand.


Update incoming!

[chrisbalich]

Hurley shirt! Updates two days in a row?
Don't get too excited, this one is going to be brief.

I have got to start chipping away at the massive APRIL 1 deadline list.
So I bled the brakes this morning to get that off the list. I also found that I capped off the brake reservoir overflow/breather nipple with a vacuum cap at some point in the past. I bet that's why I've had a long pedal a few times over the past two years. :facepalm: I'll pick up some clear tube this week and route that little bugger somewhere....or I'll cap it again and vent the reservoir cap. 50/50

The elephant in the room is the new ECU and its wiring. I've been putting it off because, well frankly, I'm a little intimidated. I get all the concepts of wiring an EFI, but ECUMaster uses some different terminology and I've never used CAN before. So I'm feeling a little out of my depth.
In an effort to both make some progress and continue to postpone the beginning of the EFI install, I fabbed up an adapter to mount the new CHT sensor that is en route to me.

I started with an offcut from a previous lathe project.


A few minutes with the bandsaw and a lot of minutes with a hand file got me this far.


Another nip with the bandsaw and a visit with the drill press got me to here.


Now I don't have the new sensor, nor it's thread pitch or size. So I made another flat and then drilled a pilot hole. The sensor hole will be finished once I have the sensor in hand. This is the final location and overall shape of the adapter. It's right behind the passenger side blanking plate on the engine shroud. That means there's only three screws in my way if I need to service/check/change the sensor.


You'll no doubt notice I changed the set screw. I fired up the lathe to modify a screw from my bin to have a wee point on the end to bite into the fin just a bit and keep it from moving.



Ah heck!
Kelly just brought me a present!


I guess that's one more thing I can use to keep putting off the installation of the new ECU.

[ToySnakePMC]

You’re moving along at lightening speed my friend! Seeing this new intake project come together is quite interesting. I’ve just learned about the plastic 964 intake “halves” here... Never knew that those existed until now - so cool.

[Jonny042]

I have a great idea for you - one which I can't use since I'm going twin plug on the Rot Rod.... but it's the best kind of idea, one which will save a bit of weight (which I like) and eliminate some wiring (which I LOVE).

If you're using conventional COP units they can be a bit weighty. The Audi 1.8T units I acquired are pretty heavy. The pile of twelve of them is massive and weighs 6 POUNDS!!!

With the EMU black you could fire 2-pin CBR1000 coils direct with the coil driver, only two wires to each coil, not 4. AND they weigh a jaw dropping 65g each compared to the 225g "smart" COPs.

[Jonny042]

Originally Posted by chrisbalich

Also, I didn't use any heat.

Oh ok I was envisioning heat it to cherry red kind of heat but on second thought that might be tough on the rollers.....

[chrisbalich]

Originally Posted by ToySnakePMC

You’re moving along at lightening speed my friend! Seeing this new intake project come together is quite interesting. I’ve just learned about the plastic 964 intake “halves” here... Never knew that those existed until now - so cool.

Ha!
I don't think I've ever been accused of moving at 'lightning speed' before.
Thank you. I'm just doing my best to document my experience.
The plastic tanks are originally mated to a plastic center section with a modular throttle body. I'm not going to bother with all of that unless I run out of things to do and decide to get a DBW TB...you know...to cut weight and add complexity.

Originally Posted by Jonny042

I have a great idea for you - one which I can't use since I'm going twin plug on the Rot Rod.... but it's the best kind of idea, one which will save a bit of weight (which I like) and eliminate some wiring (which I LOVE).

If you're using conventional COP units they can be a bit weighty. The Audi 1.8T units I acquired are pretty heavy. The pile of twelve of them is massive and weighs 6 POUNDS!!!

With the EMU black you could fire 2-pin CBR1000 coils direct with the coil driver, only two wires to each coil, not 4. AND they weigh a jaw dropping 65g each compared to the 225g "smart" COPs.

Ah poop. That's a brilliant idea. Kelly is going to be mad AF when I spend more money...
Will those CBR coils fit ok? Now I have something to google all day at work.

Originally Posted by Jonny042

Oh ok I was envisioning heat it to cherry red kind of heat but on second thought that might be tough on the rollers.....

Yeah, the urethane roller would not be a fan of that at all.
I'm considering making/buying a round roller to accompany the cylindrical wheel that came with the tool. Not sure how I'd cover it in urethane if I made one myself....but all steel would be interesting.



I built a spreadsheet yesterday of all the pins for the EMU Black yesterday. I'm using that to ensure I leave myself all the wires I need, but exclude all those I don't.
I'm hoping if I get that fully sorted, I can wire up the main trunk from ECU to bulkhead (round) fitting this week. Then I only have to wire from the bulkhead to the engine. That's the easy part...or so I've convinced myself.

I can confirm that building the spreadsheet has done a lot to assuage my fears about starting this ECU project.

[chrisbalich]

CBR1000RR ignition coils with connectors ordered.
Dang it, Jonny.
When Kelly finds out, I'm giving her your number.

[Focker]

Originally Posted by Jonny042

I have a great idea for you - one which I can't use since I'm going twin plug on the Rot Rod.... but it's the best kind of idea, one which will save a bit of weight (which I like) and eliminate some wiring (which I LOVE).

If you're using conventional COP units they can be a bit weighty. The Audi 1.8T units I acquired are pretty heavy. The pile of twelve of them is massive and weighs 6 POUNDS!!!

With the EMU black you could fire 2-pin CBR1000 coils direct with the coil driver, only two wires to each coil, not 4. AND they weigh a jaw dropping 65g each compared to the 225g "smart" COPs.

I think I still have spare 600rr coils and harness from when I was racing. Chris or Jon lmk if you want them.

[Focker]

Originally Posted by chrisbalich

CBR1000RR ignition coils with connectors ordered.
Dang it, Jonny.
When Kelly finds out, I'm giving her your number.

I'll confirm what I have in the stash tonight.

IIRC the 600rr and 1000rr are the same.

[chrisbalich]

Focker,
The coils I ordered are all pn129700-4840. The listings show 2007 CBR1000RR.
I got 7, so I should be all set.

[Focker]

Sounds good. Give me a holler if you need anything as at one point I had 2 full sets of coild, injectors etc.

[Ginger77]

Interesting point on the CBR coils. What makes that the EMU can fire those but the previous MS3X could not?

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[chrisbalich]

Originally Posted by Ginger77

Interesting point on the CBR coils. What makes that the EMU can fire those but the previous MS3X could not?

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The ignition drivers in the MS3X did not have the ampacity to safely handle the current of a 'dumb' ignition coil.
The EMU Black was designed to specifically handle this...or 12 smart coils. If I ever get to the point of needing to run twin-spark, I'll look into modular ignition coil drivers like on B5S4 2.7tt Audis so I can keep running the CBR coils.

[V10eatr]

Are you going to also apply the same treatment on the rears as Joey did on Project Nasty? I believe he either flared or flared and dollied above the arch to maximize up travel in order to allow running lower ride heights.

The car is really coming along. I saw you driving outside at Luft last summer but didn’t see it parked earlier so missed checking it out better.

Originally Posted by chrisbalich

Here's the driver's side fender, [mostly] unmolested.


See how the arch is concave?

Here's the same fender after I had my way with it and the fender roller.


And the offside

[chrisbalich]

Originally Posted by V10eatr

Are you going to also apply the same treatment on the rears as Joey did on Project Nasty? I believe he either flared or flared and dollied above the arch to maximize up travel in order to allow running lower ride heights.

The car is really coming along. I saw you driving outside at Luft last summer but didn’t see it parked earlier so missed checking it out better.

We'll see how the fronts go, but that's the idea. More uptravel so I don't have to raise the car to get it to handle better. (it's already not terrible)
Once the fronts are sorted, I'll move to the rears. I've already proven to have reached the upper limit in the driver's rear quarter. And I plan to run bigger tires this year, so I have even less space between the tire and the body.

As I acquire more tools and skills, the car will continue to get better and better...until Jamie paints it. It's gotta be well-sorted ahead of that.
Should be a busy year.

[Jonny042]

Originally Posted by Ginger77

Interesting point on the CBR coils. What makes that the EMU can fire those but the previous MS3X could not?

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The Ecumaster EMU Black (and IIRC, the Classic) has 6 coil drivers that are high output (15A peak) circuits that can drive a 2 wire coil directly which includes controlling the dwell time.

The most efficient way to do this is to have a cam synch signal so you can fire each of the 6 circuits in the firing order but not sure if Chris has or is planning to go full sequential. Instead you can go wasted spark and batch injection but....

I'm not sure how many spark outputs the MS3X has but seems like they often require an external ignitor to put the system together. A single ignition output will often be used to fire 2 coils at once in a wasted spark setup, with the external ignitors used to actually fire the coils.

I'd be using the CBR coils in my twin plug setup but they would draw too much current to fire two per ignition output. Instead each of my 6 ignition outputs will fire two smart coils, one top, and one bottom, for each cylinder.

[chrisbalich]

Originally Posted by Jonny042

The Ecumaster EMU Black (and IIRC, the Classic) has 6 coil drivers that are high output (15A peak) circuits that can drive a 2 wire coil directly which includes controlling the dwell time.

The most efficient way to do this is to have a cam synch signal so you can fire each of the 6 circuits in the firing order but not sure if Chris has or is planning to go full sequential. Instead you can go wasted spark and batch injection but....

I'm not sure how many spark outputs the MS3X has but seems like they often require an external ignitor to put the system together. A single ignition output will often be used to fire 2 coils at once in a wasted spark setup, with the external ignitors used to actually fire the coils.

I'd be using the CBR coils in my twin plug setup but they would draw too much current to fire two per ignition output. Instead each of my 6 ignition outputs will fire two smart coils, one top, and one bottom, for each cylinder.

I've recently spoken with Chris and he advised he will be going full sequential ignition and injection...like he did on the MS3X.

[Jonny042]

It's OK to talk to yourself as long as what you say isn't a surprise more than half the time. Otherwise seek help.

I'm too busy coming up with fun ideas to actually go back and figure out where you are in this journey, exactly!