Classic Retrofit: Six phase high output alternator.

[Jonny H]

We are looking at some time in May for production units.

[SoCalSK8r]

Oh I can't wait... my car is once again having alternator problems so I'm holding out for this baby.... replacing the alternator was a pain the back...literally, so I'm only looking forward to doing this once more...

Can you provide any estimates on cost?

[Jonny H]

[Tremelune]

Pretty sweet. Is the voltage regulator adjustable at all? It'd be nice to clear 14v at the battery.

[Jonny H]

Originally Posted by Tremelune

Pretty sweet. Is the voltage regulator adjustable at all? It'd be nice to clear 14v at the battery.

It is but you're seeing my in dash meter which is 0.3v below the battery voltage. You'll always get some voltage sag on high continuous loads. Drop a feather on the throttle and you're above 14V.

Most 911's struggle to hold 12v with all the toys switched on at idle

[Harpo]

Are these available to purchase yet? What about my external regulator? Will you offer a new alternator wiring harness that will enable me to bypass my external regulator?

Thanks

David

[rwest]

Originally Posted by Harpo

Are these available to purchase yet? What about my external regulator? Will you offer a new alternator wiring harness that will enable me to bypass my external regulator?

Thanks

David

Looks like some stock is available.

Upgraded Porsche 911 Alternator

[RSTarga]

Originally Posted by Harpo

Are these available to purchase yet? What about my external regulator? Will you offer a new alternator wiring harness that will enable me to bypass my external regulator?

Thanks

David

Unless this has something special all you need is to tape off the connection at the external regulator and connect your existing wiring. I just wonder if the existing wires need to be higher capacity.

[timmy2]

The website (and first post of this thread) recommends to change out to #4 AWG cable from alternator to starter. Also the ground to the case. Especially if you are installing their electric A/C unit.
I’ve built a couple of harnesses upgraded to that size cable for this alternator.
He (Johnny) sent one customer a replacement cable with the new alternator, but no provision to add the second wire (from 14 pin connector) to the crimped B+ connector as original. Could run it on a second lug, I cut off the supplied connector and crimped in the second red wire as per original.

Basically you need to remove the entire engine harness and strip out the original red cable and replace it with the larger gauge one to get it through the engine tin grommet to the starter area. (If you want it to look good)

[timmy2]

This is one of them, 3.0 EFI and stand alone ignition going in a ‘71 so just a really basic harness. You can see the routing of the new larger cable.

[Jonny H]

Finally got round to writing the install manual. It also has technical details and performance figures.

PDF on this page:

Upgraded Porsche 911 Alternator

Dennis, nice harness! I agree that making a new harness is the correct way to go and a obvious choice if the engine is out.

When the engine is in the car, it is a bit more of a challenge. Most installers elect to leave the original battery+ wire in place but disconnected(heat shrinked and safe). The 25mm2 cable we provide can then be run separately. On my own car (an SC), I made an extra hole in the engine tin (with rubber grommet) and the grey piece of shroud above the oil cooler. This allowed me to feed the wire into the shroud and route through to the alternator. Next time the engine is out I may be giving you a call!

[uwanna]

Originally Posted by Jonny H

Finally got round to writing the install manual. It also has technical details and performance figures.

PDF on this page:

Upgraded Porsche 911 Alternator

Anything upcoming for the '89 and up 3.6 motors for us transplant guys?

[timmy2]

I’m always up for some horse trading.
IIRC you would need a ‘78 CIS harness ?

Originally Posted by Jonny H

Finally got round to writing the install manual. It also has technical details and performance figures.

PDF on this page:

Upgraded Porsche 911 Alternator

Dennis, nice harness! I agree that making a new harness is the correct way to go and a obvious choice if the engine is out.

When the engine is in the car, it is a bit more of a challenge. Most installers elect to leave the original battery+ wire in place but disconnected(heat shrinked and safe). The 25mm2 cable we provide can then be run separately. On my own car (an SC), I made an extra hole in the engine tin (with rubber grommet) and the grey piece of shroud above the oil cooler. This allowed me to feed the wire into the shroud and route through to the alternator. Next time the engine is out I may be giving you a call!

[Jonny H]

Originally Posted by uwanna

Anything upcoming for the '89 and up 3.6 motors for us transplant guys?

Oh yeah, in development! Expecting first engineering samples in a few weeks.

[uwanna]

Originally Posted by Jonny H

Oh yeah, in development! Expecting first engineering samples in a few weeks.

Johnny,
Would the upgraded alternator eliminate the need for the higher speed
alternator pulley/bearing and make the single pulley retrofit more appropriate?

[Jonny H]

Originally Posted by uwanna

Johnny,
Would the upgraded alternator eliminate the need for the higher speed
alternator pulley/bearing and make the single pulley retrofit more appropriate?

Almost certainly. Our current 150A unit puts out 75A at idle. We are aiming a bit higher for the 964/993.

(The normal 115A 964/993 unit only manages 40A at idle)

[power_up]

Very looking forward to 964 items.

Originally Posted by Jonny H

Almost certainly. Our current 150A unit puts out 75A at idle. We are aiming a bit higher for the 964/993.

(The normal 115A 964/993 unit only manages 40A at idle)

[ClickClickBoom]

3.2-3.3 Serpentine fan belt conversion 1984-89 [9110-03] - $519.00 : Clewett Engineering, The complete solution for ignition & fuel injection

[Jonny042]

I'm in the middle of a ground-up rebuild and would like to (if not actually purchase and install) prepare the car for eventual installation of the 150A alternator and electric AC and future possibilities of heat.

Is the main cable through the tunnel of the car able to sustain the sort of amperage these accessories will draw? Or is it already large enough due to starter demand?

(Edit-) Can't say it enough, thanks to Classic Retrofit for engineering and manufacturing and supporting these quality upgrades!

[Jonny H]

Originally Posted by Jonny042

I'm in the middle of a ground-up rebuild and would like to (if not actually purchase and install) prepare the car for eventual installation of the 150A alternator and electric AC and future possibilities of heat.

Is the main cable through the tunnel of the car able to sustain the sort of amperage these accessories will draw? Or is it already large enough due to starter demand?

(Edit-) Can't say it enough, thanks to Classic Retrofit for engineering and manufacturing and supporting these quality upgrades!

As you guessed, the main starter cable from the battery is capable of handling the load. The wire from the starter to the alternator is not. We supply the 150A alternator with a heavy duty cable set that replaces this wire and the ground strap.

See the alternator install manual on this page:

https://www.classicretrofit.com/pages/manuals-and-software