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backdated bumper - fog light install
I took my '75 back to the old style bumpers and I wanted to install a set of fog lights. How in the world do you bolt these suckers up? I can see the flat spot wehre the bracket hole should be...but once I drill the hole, it's near impossible to get a nut, wrench, etc. down into the compartment below the headlight boxes.
I've already lost a 14mm socket down there trying to use every 1/4 extension I have to reach the bolt. I just love to hear it rattle around every time I take a corner. Maybe the older cars don't have the extra metal mine has that used to be mounting points for the bumber shocks. Anybody else in this situation? Did you cut an access panel for yourself somewhere?
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Kevin Taylor '75 Silver 914 1.8 Atlanta, GA |
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You have to take the bumper off to install the lamps.
Phil |
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You miss my point. It's easy to get to
at the front...take the bumper off...whatever. It's the back. Where the mounting bolt would go. If you drill a hole for the bolt it goes into a compartment below the headlight. There seems to be no easy access to this area unless you have wrists like a 16 year old anorexic model. I'm wondering if any one has any tricks like a 24" swivel head 1/4 extension with bubble gum on the end. Or maybe they took a sawzalll to the sheet metal that held the bumer shocks and cut an access panel.
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Kevin Taylor '75 Silver 914 1.8 Atlanta, GA |
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It was a welded nut on the earlier cars (in case you did not know that) so you did not have to get to the back side.
I don't have any help for you as I have not tried it on mine yet. |
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That's what I was afraid of...time for the sawzall.
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Kevin Taylor '75 Silver 914 1.8 Atlanta, GA |
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Try finding some Nut-serts. I am not sure if that is how it is spelled. They install from the outside & crush into place. Made for intalling threads into a blind sheet metal hole.
Mark 73 2.0
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Mark 73 2.0 |
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Kevin,
I'm facing the same situation with my '75 that I recently fitted with fiberglass bumbers. I am considering drilling a hole in the body metal and tack welding a bolt over it. However the "Nut-serts" idea sounds good. Anyone have any info on this system? Joseph 75 2.0L AX bound
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Joseph 89 Silver Anniversary Carrera, "Pearl" Not forgotten... 69 911E ~ 75 914-4 ~ 88 GP White Carrera |
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Mark 73 2.0 |
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Mark 73 2.0 |
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Look under:
"Rivet Studs and Nuts"
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Mark 73 2.0 |
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I changed to early bumpers on the yellow car. I used a Stainless Steel blind nut. I also used Stainless allen head bolt and washers.
I drilled a hole in the front and then tack welded it into place so theat it would not turn when tightening the allen head bolt. The reason I used the allen head bolt is because of the clearance that you are faced with whe the lites are in place. I tried to post a pic but PPBB does'nt take it. CCLinLOO
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Craig C. Laughlin CAMP 914 Helping to bring your 914 into the 21st century. http://www.camp914.com |
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Is a "blind nut" the same thing as a "captive nut", that is, a nut which you press into the hole for a friction fit? And then in addition you welded it into place? This is getting pretty nutty.
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Yes in the literal sense it could be one and the same. Usually a captive nut is a nut that is held captive in a metal frame, or tabs.
CCLinLOO
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Craig C. Laughlin CAMP 914 Helping to bring your 914 into the 21st century. http://www.camp914.com |
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Go to the link to look at Knurled rivet studs and nuts. They work great and if you really want holding power tack weld 'em on after you cinch them down.
Geoff
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76 914 2.0L Nepal Orange (2056 w/Djet FI, Raby Cam, 9to1 compression) www.914Club.com My Gallery Page |
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