Stay of Execution

[Neal Colingham]

My 76 2.0 is leaking like a sieve I suspect it's the oil cooler seals. My question is
two part.
1.Is there a way to change the seals with the
engine in the car and not have to be a contortionist.
2.What rudimemtary tests can a layman perform
to see if the motor needs to be rebuilt.
It uses oil buts it's because of the leak. The car runs fine but who knows.

[Joe Bob]

Leak down and compression checks are not definitive answers to your questions, but they help. They can give you an idea as to how the rings and valve train are performing. Also if you have any history on the motor, T4s last about 100K, if the maintenance has been anywhere near what it was supposed to be....like regular oil changes and valve adjustments.

If the compression is less than 120 or there is a difference of more that 20lbs on any one cylinder then you are looking at a failure soon. Of course the old dropping a valve seat can happen any time, with out warning...ask me how I know?

Either way, drive it and enjoy it....

[Neal Colingham]

I forgot that the motor has 150K and it's
been in my family since new. Maintenance
was regular.

[jabb]

You can change the Oil Cooler Seals with
the motor in the car. It is not easy but can be done. I did it on a 75 1.8, the cooler will not come out it will separate from the motor and pull forward enough so you can fit new seals in. It is a very tedious process.
Good Luck
Joe A.

[Joe Bob]

150K without a tear down on a 76, 2.0? You and your family should be commended. That is very good. The 76 2.0 runs a little hotter and has a shorter life span, than the 73-74 because the car is heavier and has more emission control equipment. If it was California smog equipped it would have an EGR, air pump with injectors and a catalytic converter.

If your State allows you to remove them, then it will allow the engine to work with less drag...I would do a diagnosis with leak down and/or compression.

If it shows low compression or excessive leakage, I would pull the motor and do a top end, and then fix the oil leak. Depending on your budget, the bottom end would do with renewal...

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

Oil pressure is a decent way to check the condition of the "bottom end" of the motor. (Oil pump & main bearings, mostly.) If you have > 10 PSI per 1000 RPMs, that's good. Less than that, and the bottom end is starting to need attention. A lot less than that, and you might consider taknig it off the road now.

Remember that the oil pressure control piston limits the maximum pressure. So check at 1000, 2000, and 3000 RPM.

--DD

[JP Noonan]

Another way is to have a company analyze the engine oil. They can see how far into the tri-metal the bearings are worn.

Tom Wilson's book talks about checking the crankshft end play (can't remember the spec, but you really should have the book anyway) to see how the bottom end is doing. Unfortunately the trans has to come off to do the test.

I agree with mike Z about the smog equipment. Removing the 75 exhaust and putting on a 73-74 SSI/Bursh setup droped the temp gauge on my 2.0L from just after the "p" in temp to the middle of the "t". Sorry, I didn't have my numerical temp gauge hooked up to give actual numbers.

[PeteD]

Definitely get and read Tom Wilson's book "Rebuilding your Volkswagen Air-cooled engine" (or something like that). It has a great section on evaluating the engine to see if it needs a rebuild. All that said, 150K, no rebuild, it's probably time.

As for your original question, "working on engine while in car" is the same as "being a contortionist". I am a big believer in pulling the engine out of the car and inspecting/repairing all leaks at once. You can also clean out all of the junk that has accumulated on top of the heads and cylinder fins and improve the engine cooling. After you have done it once, you should be able to get the engine out in less than 90 minutes. The procedure is well documented in the pelican tech article pages, (as is a procedure for changing out the oil cooler seals with the engine in the car).

Welcome to the fraternity.

[Neal Colingham]

When I take the oil filler cap off there is
a foamy oil residue in the filler tube, I
used to have this on my 62 bug in High School
is this indicitive of oil breakdown. I
just changed the oil a couple weeks ago.

[roadtrp204]

The foamy residue is water condensation from when the engine cools off over night. That small amount of water in the oil should evaporate when the engine is up to opperating temperature, some of it collects on the filler cap and thats what your seeing.

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

Oh, one more thing. The car may very well not be leaking out of the oil cooler seals. First thing to check would be the oil pressure sender. Cheap and easy fix, just remember not to overtighten it!

--DD

[Ascaris]

Ok, stupid question. Where is the oil pressure sender located? I'm about to add an aux gauge to my center console.

[John Rogers]

Right under the distributor, on top of the block. You should be able to see it through a hole in the sheetmetal.

[Ascaris]

Thanks John, I know which one it is now. (So much easier to ask a question than to crack a book