2.0 finally coming along........

[Scooter311]

Alrighty then
I've been waiting, and waiting, and WAITING, but the rest of the parts (96mm kit, and some miscellaneous doodads) are being shipped today - WHOOOOOWEEEEE! My heads are done - new stainless valves, 3 angle 'performance' valve job, some exhaust port cleanup, and HD springs, and spacers. 40idfs, all cleaned and rebuilt, intake runners cleaned up as well, hoidy-toidy uptown aluminum filter/hexbar kit, European H grind cam, and just picked up my alternator from the local rebuild joynt - it looks brand new, they even painted the back cover! Even my engine tin is poifect, along with a new 009 (for now) and pointless ignition. Still need plug wires, but I'm not sure which ones yet.
I'm having a pal make me a clutch disc (he owns a clutch and brake shop), and then that's about everything. I've already done my rear wheel bearings, and replaced my front swaybar end links, put in a swank CD/mp3 player with Cerwin Vega's, and the girly-friend is sewing me a new headliner (she doesn't know it yet, but she's gonna embroider a Porsche crest on it too - she has some sewing machine that cost more than my 914 did, seriously!)
This jalopy had better be faster than the 1.7, or I'm gonna pull the whole thing out and put in that old 12 horse Wisconsin mower engine sitting in the shed.
It's so nice in Rochester now, and driving weather is only a few months - I'm seeing people in convertibles everywhere, and I'm stuck in a Jeep I'm SERIOUSLY geeking to drive this thing - I hope I don't have any trouble getting it running!
I'll get some pix when it's together, and a couple of the install.
Anyone wanna let me borrow their car for a week or two in the meantime?

Jeff

[lmcchesney]

That is great Jeff. Hopefully, you will not be disappointed. By the way, what are the specifics of the European H grind cam?
L. McC

[Jason Porter]

Approx. .430" x 276* duration

Not sure of duration at .050"

[Scooter311]

Thanks Jason,
That sounds about right, I'm looking for my paperwork right now actually, but I may have left it home. I need to call them soon anyway, I'll find out then. Hey, how's your 911-spanker running BTW ?
HIJACKING MY OWN THREAD
I need to order a windshield frame-to targa seal soon too from you, has the quality issue been resolved?

Cha-cha-ciao

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

Originally posted by Scooter311
My heads are done - ... 3 angle 'performance' valve job...

Correction--3-angle stock valve job. That's what came with our motors originally.

I need to order a windshield frame-to targa seal soon too from you, has the quality issue been resolved?

Yes, it has been solved for several years now. Order with confidence!

--DD

[Jason Porter]

Originally posted by Scooter311
Hey, how's your 911-spanker running BTW ?

The engine is amazing. The car is getting faster and faster as the engine gets more broken in.

BTW, Jake, thanks on the lifters! No problems in 1,000 miles of fairly hard driving.

Did I mention this thing pulls hard all the way to 6K?

However...I just ordered a new gearbox. Mine is not going to cut it, in fact, if it even makes it the 3 weeks I'll be waiting for my gearbox, I'll be hugely impressed. You should be very happy with that combo Jeff.

Did your head guys match port your heads and intake minifolds?

And yes, you should definitely ditch the 009 as soon as you can. I have one in my bug, but it's stripped down and light, I'm not putting that much of a load on the engine down low anyways. Plus, I spend all my time around 3-4, so no worrys about the advance coming in to fast there.

FYI, I'm timed with the same cam at 7.5 BTDC at idle (1,000 RPM), which is around 28-29 BTDC at 3,500 RPM. Hope that helps.

And yes, the quality of our seals is wonderful. I concur with Dave.

I just wanted to say concur...Laters

[silver2.0]

Just curious, are those 3 stud heads? When I rebuilt my heads for my 2.0 all I saw were the "stock" valves, not stainless. How do the stainless hold up? Someone once told me they are not as strong and hard. I don't really know anything about this, so thought I would ask.

[Scooter311]

Doods
Yeah, they're the 2.0 3-studders. My old valves were corroded too bad to reuse, and the original sodium exhausts appeared fine once wire brushed, however they had hairline cracks and had to be junked. I would guess that stainless replacements wouldn't corrode as easily, and wouldn't wear as easily as the stock ones (except for stock exhaust valves, they're stainless as well, I believe). Someone in the know, please stand up on this?
My intakes were cleaned up, but not match ported. Thanks for the idea! I'll see how close they are tonite after work - there's still time to do it though.
Are there different types of "3 angle" valve jobs? The machinist (a full time cylinder head builder and racer, with aircooled experience) told me he cut different angles in them for better initial flow, or some baloney like that. He said these heads should crank - I don't care, as long as they stay together!

[Scooter311]

FLASH NEWS UPDATE
It's all together, all that's left is to load it on the pickup, take it to the garage, and snap it together. I only need to get the carb linkage sorted out and figure the timing out (what order do the wires go on the dizzy and where should the rotor point? - I need to look more closely at the book , I know it's in there somewhere). I can do that, and add oil when it's in the car though.
If all goes well, I'll be putting it all together tomorrow, and MAYBE firing it up that night, or Sunday. Wish me luck - I'm praying, lighting candles, chanting, and I hired a witch doctor to come by and wave some chickens around.
oh please work, oh please work....

[Alfred1]

The firing order is 1, 4, 3, 2 and I believe that the distributor rotor turns clockwise so turn the crankshaft by hand so that the number 1 piston is at TDC on the compression stroke and then install the distributor and rotate it until the rotor points to one terminal. That's your number 1 spark plug wire terminal. The next terminal in the clockwise direction is the number 4 wire etc.

[Scooter311]

UPDATE
I'm on jury duty! Arrrgghh! I have a couple questions, while sneaking away at the public libray here on lunch - I'm haveing trouble getting spark to the plug wires off the dizzy. I checked the coil, and there's a rediish spark jumping from the coil wire to the distributor, but no spark from the distributor to the plug ends. I also checked the plug wires in the same way, from the coil to the engine block, and there's spark, however when testing from the cap to the block, NUTTIN! Everything is timed, valves adjusted, and TDC has been determined, I don't think I'm 180 off either.
Secondly, Is the tach wire connected to coil pos or neg? There is a green wire with a red stripe, and what appears to be a solid black wire as well - are these coil pos or neg? I just want to make certain I have them attatched correctly.
Lastly, from the alternator harness, there is a thicker, red wire, that I have connected to the starter (on the same terminal as the battery pos lead) - is this the correct spot?
I have everything together, and it turns over nicely, but there is no spark/weak spark, and I'm not 100 percent positive I have everything connected correctly.
Oh, dual carbs, pointless CDI, and 009 dizzy, if that helps.
I'm sorry for such an abrupt, humorless post, but I have only a short time to type, then BACK TO COURT! WHAAAAAA
I hope to have it running, but I may be here ALL WEEK
Sadly,
Jeff

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

Reddish spark across ~1/8" of gap? Dying coil, most likely. Check the rest of the bits, first, though.

Coil wiring--
Thick-ish black wire (may have a red stripe some years): Coil + terminal. Gets +12V when the key is on. [NOTE: The red stripe can fade!]
Thinner black wire with purple stripe: Coil - terminal. Tach signal wire. [NOTE: The purple stripe can fade and look brown or black!]
Green wire: Coil - terminal. Points wire (by way of the condensor).
Really really thick black wire: Coil center cap. Carries the spark to the distributor.

Green wire with red stripe: To the oil pressure sender just aft of the distributor.

The thick red wire from the alternator that has the ring terminal on the end gets hooked up to the same terminal on the starter that the fat battery cable does.

Since you have some points replacement, you won't have a green points wire. The CDI may change the wiring--probably does. But I'm not sure how.

--DD

[Scooter311]

OK back at the library - I was released after 2 jury selections (they asked if I knew any deputies, and I happened to know 5, 3 of which were working in the same building, a the same time, and they let me go!)
Thanks for the reply Dave It's a BN coil from Pelican, could it be bad? I'll put the old crusty one on to see if there's a diff? Also, According to whtat you describe, I've got everything hooked up okay, grrr! Is there a fuseable link somewhere that could be shot and robbing power?
Thanks all
Jeff