Euro "e" grind cam

[mikey]

Any of you guys familiar with this cam, and its performance??? Who distributes it also??

Thanks,
Mike

[Scooter311]

Hawdy
European Racing 'E' grind - do a search here, you'll find lotsa info. I have one, and IIRC Jason Porter had one as well. Gotta learn a new technique for valve adjusts too.
You'll like it - they're in demand however, and I had to wait a while for it to be made.
I think the owner's name is George, VERY nice person to deal with.

[mikey]

Are they durable, and what model webcam is it close too??? It looks to me like its between an 86 and an 86a.

[sean_V8_914]

bump.
I think I have one too, not sure. it is in a 2.4 104 x 71mm. the only mark on it is an "E" stamped near teh oil pump drive.

[Scooter311]

Heya
I had an oopsie when I put my motor together - I ended up bending a couple pushrods and wasting some lifters due to my own ignorance ..... I think I told you I was a hack......

ANYWAYS

I pulled the lifters out (they were sooo toasted) and I got scared that the cam may have crapped the bed too, but to my surprise, as I looked into the bores and turned the motor over - - NOTHING! No wear, no scuffs, nothing bad, just nice new cam. So I'll say that this cam is pretty tough - I've put 2000 miles on it since then and I keep checking my valve clearances just to make sure ( I even had the heads off for another reason and did a double check of the lifters and cam, and everything seems nicely broken in and fresh).

[sean_V8_914]

I did not get any info with the search. can someone please point me in the right direction?

[mikey]

Yeah....also who distributes these cams?? What is the name of the place off Hawethorn in Los Angeles??? Is the brand "European Racing" or "EuroRace"?

[mike mueller]

European Motorworks

[Jason Porter]

Good cam...depending on what combo you are running...What are you building?

[mikey]

Well.......now I gues I am going to wait for Jake's new website and order a cam from him. But I plan on building a 2056, stock 71mm stroke and stock 2liter heads. I have a pre broken in webcam 86a with lifters though.......

[Jason Porter]

If you're going to order a cam from Jake, go ahead and get ceramics, and send your heads off to Len at HAM. The reason I say this is, if you're going to go all the way with the cam, you may as well hook up the rest of the engine to make the most of it. Otherwise, to save money, and get optimum performance, go with the 163/86b. You'll be happier with either option than with the 86a.

[Eddie Brown]

Hi. I've been using a European Motorworks "E" grind for about 10K miles now. My motor is a 1911 (48x38 2ltr. Bus Heads), 40 IDF's in a 70 Beetle.

It's a good cam. Although my valves are a little too big for the motor I have. I should've gone with 42x36 valves instead. The cam has a good enough bottom end to shear the flywheel bolts once in my Beetle. 1st through 3rd gear, it pulls very well (enough to leave a few Hondas in the dust). In fourth the motor cruises very nice, with good fast lane passing ability. I've had the motor up to 7K rpms, but makes it's best power up to 6K in my combination. I'm running a 3.88 R/P tranny with stock gears with a 25.5" tire.

Idle is very quiet, and easy to tune. I haven't had any issues with bad cam wear because if checked the lifters after about 5K miles.

Not a 914, but at least some experience with that cam...

E.

[Type 4 Unleashed]

I'am running 2 of there cams: The P 533 lift 318 dur (281 at .050) and the other, the H 488 lift 286 dur (248 at .050).The E cam 432 lift 280 dur (240 at .050), is almost the same as an Engle 110 430 lift 284 dur, both the Euro E and the Engle 110 are good bottom end cams, a little to small for my tastes. For a good cam for a 2.0 ltr or smaller, I think that the H cam is a good choice, it pulls strong to 6000 6500, the E cam puls strong to maybe 5500.

This is only my opinion, I've ran the 110 in type 1's I know how they run, and I've ran the H cam, I like the H better.

As for the P cam it needs compression, and it doesn't come on till about 4,000, and it needs a 2.4 or larger to have any fun.

Cam choices. Think about what you want to use it for, choose a cam, then buy the one that's a little bigger, you won't go wrong.

And I've heard something about ceramics, other than no cam wear, I don't know if it was because of valve float or valve adjustments being to loose or both, but the ceramics had chiped, I was warned to check into it, before I bought a pair.

[Scooter311]

My bad folks, mine's an H not an E

Sorry, just wanted to letcha know,
I'm a doofus

[SirAndy]

Originally posted by Scooter311
Gotta learn a new technique for valve adjusts too.

care to explain this a bit better ???


could this be the solution to my problems ?
Andy

[mike mueller]

interesting, could a radical or dual pattern camshaft need a special method for adjusting the valves??? if the cylinder is at TDC with both valves closed, I don't see how this could be any different???

V6914,

you should have no problems with the ceramic lifters......just don't drop the ceramic lifters on the ground, and don't float the living daylights out of the valves (which would be stupid to do on a regular basis no matter what kind of lifters)...I've got a set, they are almost too pretty to install into the motor

[Jason Porter]

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?threadid=179191&highlight=valve+adjustment+procedure

[Type 4 Unleashed]

Originally posted by mike mueller
interesting, could a radical or dual pattern camshaft need a special method for adjusting the valves??? if the cylinder is at TDC with both valves closed, I don't see how this could be any different???

I, adjust valves depending on material: The aluminum push rods, I adjust the valves, with the piston at top dead center, both valves closed, with a very mild cam .006 Int .008 Ext, with a medium cam, .004 Int .006 Ext.

With Chromoly push rods, I adjust the valves, with the piston at top dead center, both valves closed, and with the steel pushrods usually a high performance cam is used, thats with lots of lift and duration, which requires heavy duty springs, I adjust at ZERO valve lash, YES ZERO VALVE LASH, both valves are closed, I adjust them as close to ZERO as I can, I adjust them so there is no clearance, but can easley spin the pushrod between my fingers. Now you may be thinking, why would he do it that way? Aluminum pushrods expand with the rest of the motor, if you start out .006 when the motor is cold, you will end up at around .006 when the motor gets hot, with steel push rods, if you start at .006 cold, when the motor got hot you could have anywheres between .010 to .014, with the ZERO lash, I have checked several times, both Int & Ext where between .005 and .007 hot. Thats why I do it this way.

Richard

[Type 4 Unleashed]

[i]
V6914,

you should have no problems with the ceramic lifters......just don't drop the ceramic lifters on the ground, and don't float the living daylights out of the valves (which would be stupid to do on a regular basis no matter what kind of lifters)...I've got a set, they are almost too pretty to install into the motor [/B]

I, went to Vetrans Stadium last sunday, I met with Charles from LN Engineering, I asked him about the chiping of the Ceramics, he then pick up one of his sample Ceramic lifters, and slamed it on the asphalt, not once but three times, I inspected it after, no chips, he did say there had been some that chiped, but that was because they were ran with over 800 pd valve springs. He said 400 to 500 pd springs and Ceramics no problem.

Valve float is because the springs are to week. Then there the people who destroy ther cams, by coil binding them to death.

I'll help anyone out, seting up there heads, with how I do it.

Richard