2-liter rebuild questions (long)...

[djs]

Hi. I haven't posted in a while because I've been travelling. My '75 914 is parked in the garage with a "Non-Op" Cert because it needs a smog, requiring that I return it to "Smog-legal" status...(but meanwhile, I've been quite active in the Vanagon.com listserve!

Anyway, I'm currently starting the process of building a nice, nearly stock, GA-series 2.0 engine that I can use in my 914 for daily driving, and keep the other stock, '75 GC-series engine in the garage for the bi-annual smog inspection that's required until 2005. The GA-series with Euro pistons should give me at least another 5hp over the '75 motor with it's North American pistons, and I already have the SS heat exchangers, as well. This approach makes sense for me because the '75 that is currently in the car leaks oil and has not had the benefit of a "full" rebuild, although it runs well.

The 2.0 that I obtained awhile back appears to be in really good condition, with all bearings still "STD" and no indication of a worn-out case or cracked heads(though one piston is a bit melted). I will be using the Euro pistons and a Web-cam (00-472) that has a slightly more aggressive grind for use with stock FI & mechanical lifters.

Question 1: I assume that I need to purchase a new "0" crank gear to mate with the new Web-Cam bolt-on gear. Can someone confirm this?

Question 2: I plan to balance the pistons, rods and crank. Should I also consider counterweighting the crank while I'm at it? The car would be used as a daily driver as well as for recreational driving, but I'd like it to be as smooth as possible and to last a long time, too.

Question 3: Are there any other modifications I should consider during this process? Things like screw-in oil gallery plugs, higher-pressure oil bypass springs, etc.? Looking for other people's experience/opinions with these mods. Or any general tips I've not thought of yet.

I'd like to keep the engine as close to stock as possible for longevity.

Thanks in advance!

Dan Schmitz

[JP Noonan]

1. Ask Web cam but I think you drill out the rivets on the old cam and bolt the gear to the new cam. Use lock-tite, someone on the list had the bolts back out on them, a real mess.

2. Balancing is worth the money. The motor will run smoother and have less parasitic loss.

As far as counter balancing, for the money I guess it won't hurt, but really doesn't help unless you plan on going above 6000 rpm, but then you also would need carbs, cam, double springs, light weight lifters...

3. The screw in galley plugs are a great idea.

Remember to clean everything with hot soapy water then coat it with oil. Use Comet cleaner in te cylinders to get all the honing crud out. It can cause the rings to take more time to seat but adds miles to the engine.

Do not polish the case, leave it clean. Polished surfaces reflect heat, if the case is polished it reflects heat back into the engine.

DO paint the cylinder fins, pushrod tubes, and valve covers with flat black, NON-insulative paint. Most high temp paints insulate, use black stove paint.

Clean the fan and housing and make sure there are no leaks in the tin-ware or engine compartment seal.

No matter what anyone says keep the thermostat. Sure you can run without it, but it helps warm the engine up faster which prolongs engine life.

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

I'm not a big fan of counterweighting. You have to weld on the counterweights, which puts you at the mercy of whomever is doing the welding. (Note: Do not get Bernie Bergman CW cranks! They have a crappy rep in Type IV circles!) If there is any heat-treat on the crank, you may need to re-do it. And so on.

The benefits for a street motor seem to be pretty minimal anyway.

Either getting the oil gallery plugs replaced with pipe caps, or covering them with Lock-Tite freeze plug sealant, is a good idea. You'll be quite unhappy if one of the gallery plugs pops out--trust me... There are plugs on both ends of the engine.

--DD

[SteveStromberg]

You had better get ready to register your 914 in Nevada. When you change the pistons and cam it probably WILL NOT pass the smog test. Leave it stock until it is exempt in 2003,then biuld a rockety ship.