Problems Shifting after re-installing transaxle

[Meine44]

Recently, I had to drop the transmission to replace the shift rod that connects to the linkage that runs on top of the transaxle at the rear.

I was able to get the transaxle lined up and back in the car. However, there seems to be something hanging up on the shift rod now.

I am able to shift the car into what I believe is 3rd and 4th, 5th and reverse gears. When in 4th or reverse, there is sometimes a lot of pressure pushing toward the front of the car; it is acting as of it wants to shift back to the neutral position.

When I try to shift into 1st and 2nd, the gear shift inside the car won't budge to the left. The only thing that I can tell is there is a clunking noise when I try and move the shifter to engage the first two gears.

I've also noticed that the shift rod itself is very close to the top of the opening it passes through at the transaxle. Should this be centered on that opening?

The linkage at the rear can be operated by hand through all the gears mentioned without issue.

Has anyone had experience with the shift rod being hung up on anything?

Or is there another possibility?

[Meine44]

I've had some time to work on the car recently. Progress is as follows:

I dropped the transaxle a second time to do more investigating. The retaining ring that holds the centering spring in place was damaged. WHen shifting through the gears, the gear selector was traveling past the 5/R shift gate and hanging up past the shifting forks. I replace the retaining, and the gear selector now shifts through all three gates properly.

After reinstalling the transaxle, I am faced with the same trouble as before. It seems the shift rod is not aligned properly with the shifter rod joint. There is not enough rotational travel where the shift rod and shifter rod joint are connected. There is plenty of room to rotate clockwise from the center position to reach 5/R gears, but the shifter rod joint will not travel with the shift rod to contact the 1/2 shift forks. It seems the shifter rod joint is too short.

Is there any reason the shift rod would be rotationally out of alignment with the shifter rod joint?

All parts are stock.

Debating throwing the towel at it and taking it in to a shop at this point, I want to get this car back to road worthy.

[jjeffries]

Meine,

Any photos you could provide would be helpful.

When I was installing my transaxle, I initially made an error that had me scratching my head for a while. I'd put the linkage mechanism that's located on top of the unit on upside down.

I doubt that's what you've got going on - you'd be unable to shift at all - but I'm thinking your issue is likely within this area. (I could be 100% incorrect!). That linkage looks simple but is moving motion in both axial and lateral directions; the location and sequencing of the spacers and washers, etc has to be right.

Maybe google some images of "944 transaxle" and compare to your own.

Hopefully someone more experienced than me will chime in.

Best of luck to you,
John

[Meine44]

jjeffries,

I was able to get under the car today and re-orient the the linkage mechanism that you described. I also took some pictures. One of the pictures below is a replacement linkage hat came with the shift rod I purchased. I believe it is in the correct orientation pictured. That said, I think the pictures of the linkage now on the car are in the incorrect orientation. Is it possible the Turbo linkage is different from other models?

Now, when trying to shift through the gears, I can get to 1/2, 3/4, and 5th, but not Reverse. However, in re-orienting the shift linkage as pictured, shifting into 1/3/5 now results in the shifter in the car returning with extreme pressure to the "Neutral" position. Gears 2/4 will sit in the gear properly. I cannot get to Reverse as the shifter in the car now hits the surrounding console when shifting toward the Reverse gate.

It seems no matter what orientation I install the linkage, as soon as I tighten the 13mm and 17mm bolts to center the shifter rod joint, I am unable to get the shifter inside the car to the left. It will still go into gears 1/2, but the shifter is in the center of the console and will not go any further. This is also what is causing the 5/R gate to contact the console inside the car.

I have confirmed again that with the linkage disconnected from the shift rod, I can move into the gears by hand manipulating the linkage on top of the transaxle.

[Meine44]

Video can be seen here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6UVAeUD00Aw&ab_channel=MichaelLazzio

[Ernie944]

Mein 44 ,not to be critical but I don't understand why you did not install a ....short shift kit ...while you were at it ,shifting then will have been more pleasurable with one compare to the OE link.More crispy & short throw,difference will have nigth & day.Just saying.Take care. .Short shifter.

[Meine44]

@Ernie944,

I don't believe a short shifter would solve the issues I'm having. First rule of modifying anything is: make the stock kit work, or the replacement will make the issues worse.

[IdahoDoug]

Meine,

I've been in there with my 944 and will help if I can. However, I'm trying to get my brain around a few things. First, why did you need to replace the part in the first place? Did you buy the car broken and it's never been on the road since you owned it, or have you driven it for a while and the part simply wore out and needed replacement? Those are two major different scenarios, so let me know the context here.

Secondly, I don't see any new parts here at all - possibly the rubber boot looks new. So tell me about the part you installed. New? Used? Where did you buy it?

Thirdly, tell me what vehicle you are working on. Year? Turbo or NA? Country? Stock? History of the shifting issue?

Thanks.

[Meine44]

Originally Posted by IdahoDoug

Meine,

I've been in there with my 944 and will help if I can. However, I'm trying to get my brain around a few things. First, why did you need to replace the part in the first place? Did you buy the car broken and it's never been on the road since you owned it, or have you driven it for a while and the part simply wore out and needed replacement? Those are two major different scenarios, so let me know the context here.

Secondly, I don't see any new parts here at all - possibly the rubber boot looks new. So tell me about the part you installed. New? Used? Where did you buy it?

Thirdly, tell me what vehicle you are working on. Year? Turbo or NA? Country? Stock? History of the shifting issue?

Thanks.

The snap ring holding the intermediate shaft in place failed, causing the 10mm bolt that holds the shift rod and intermediate shaft together to snap off. I was able to limo the car home. The shift rod was damaged at the connection point and was replaced with a used shift rod in good condition.

1988 944 Turbo, USA car. Mostly stock, with MAF kit, 3" exhaust.

[Meine44]

I moved the shift rod and inspected the foam. Is is not in great shape, but I was able to confirm that the shift rod isn't being hung up on the foam. There is a metallic sound when the shift rod moves, which seems to be coming from the area directly behind the foam. It sounds like the shift rod is getting hung up on something within the tunnel that the shift rod travels through.

With the shift rod disconnected from the intermediate shaft, this metallic "clunk" sound can be heard when moving the shifter inside the car. When shift rod and intermediate shaft are connected, I am having the same problem where the 1/2 shifter gates are inaccessible.

It appears that there is an obstruction preventing the shifter from moving to the left gates when fully connected. Either where the shift rod travels above the torque tube, or some mechanical failure at the shift linkage. There is no visual obstruction that I can see.

Back to square 1.

[jjeffries]

There are the various clamps around the torque tube to hang the exhaust ... have any of them been messed with such that they might be pushing up on the shift rod? No one has sunk any "extra" hardware through the unibody central tunnel?

Where the shift rod goes through the bellhousing ... where that goofy black plastic tube/cover is installed ... is the shift rod centered as it passes through there?

Maybe asked elsewhere, but have you comfirmed your engine mounts and tranny mounts are OK? This is important for the overall geometry (said Captain Obvious) ... might also explain what stressed out the part that failed causing you to pull the tranny in the first place?

I think you have something fundamentally out of alignment here. Again, not saying that to heap scorn.

John

[Meine44]

Originally Posted by jjeffries

There are the various clamps around the torque tube to hang the exhaust ... have any of them been messed with such that they might be pushing up on the shift rod? No one has sunk any "extra" hardware through the unibody central tunnel?

Where the shift rod goes through the bellhousing ... where that goofy black plastic tube/cover is installed ... is the shift rod centered as it passes through there?

Maybe asked elsewhere, but have you comfirmed your engine mounts and tranny mounts are OK? This is important for the overall geometry (said Captain Obvious) ... might also explain what stressed out the part that failed causing you to pull the tranny in the first place?

I think you have something fundamentally out of alignment here. Again, not saying that to heap scorn.

John

I don't believe the exhaust clamps have been tampered with. The mechanical interference seems to be coming from the torque tube just before or after the foam sound deadening directly under the shifter.

The shift rod is centered left-to-right as it passes through the bellhousing. However, it seems to be out of alignment in the other direction. It is interfering with the top of that opening such that the black plastiv protector had been caught and broken prior to replacing the shift rod. The rod was interfering with the plastic protector.

I had inspected the transmission mount, and it seems to be in okay shape. However, I'm not confident I would be able to identify whether it was holding the transmission's weight properly. It has not broken.

As far as engine mounts, I am unfamiliar. Is there a technical article available for inspection that I may reference? I'm afraid I wouldn't know how to identify a failure of the engine mounts, but that would be a goo place to inspect next.