bypassing cycling valve
 

i am wondering what i can use to bypass the cycling valve. i am not really looking for more than stock boost, i just want to take the cycling valve out of the equation.

any ideas?

don't do it. read this;
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?threadid=243643

You haven't lived till you pulled the Cycling valve........ :D


Boooooo nize.......Booooo :D

ok, i read it. seems to me that if i bypass the cycling valve, leave the KLR in place, i still get knock protection. remember, i am NOT after a ton of boost, just stock and i want to get the CV out of the equation.

pretend i am simple minded, maybe i am, because after reading that whole thread, i really don't see a big problem with this. educate me.

the last thing we need is another owner with a damaged motor trying to figure out what went wrong, getting tired of dumping money into it, and then putting another lemon 951 on the 'for sale under $5k' market.

or maybe i'm too optimistic. :)

Honestly........ its not a big deal...

As long as you set your MBC to ~11 psi.... all is good.

If you want more then you need a set of chips to be on the safe side.

Just don't be tempted to turn that little knob.

Come on we need more parts cars!!!

I am gonna need an engine harness!! :D

But nize is correct. Make sure you understand what you are doing........and what the benefits/risks are of modifying out of stock configuration.

KLR+cv = knock protection (as well as many other protections)

KLR only = no knock protection

question for you; why do you want to eliminate the CV on an all-stock car?

....... uhmmmm

Both of those have knock protection....Timing will be pulled when knock is heard.

Without the CV you are just not getting that limp home mode when you overboost.... which is a good thing on a stock car.

timing will be pulled when knock is heard, up to a limit. if knock is still present beyond that limit, boost will be pulled. that's the full knock protection.

i guess i should say you still get the spark timing protection but not the overboost/detonation protection.

i am having problems with my car going into safe mode when the motor is cold. i am not driving it hard while cold, so i think the cycling valve is failing or there is another problem.

when it does this, the car is absurdly underpowered, as the wastegate is opening early, and i have to drive it or let it idle until it is warmed up, restart and then all is well.

my logic is this: bypass the cycling valve, set it to more or less stock boost, leave the KLR. this gets rid of the cold problem, its not overboosting the engine, and i still get timing retard.

what about this logic:
replace the CV with a good one. ?

i'd rather just get rid of it. ;)

Well considering the option........ go ahead.

..... but realize this is the path that leads down the darkside...

i'm willing to bet there is another problem, because when the cycle valve fails it usually fails when it gets hot.

you could eliminate the cycle valve, but then you'd never find the 'real' problem.

my opinions are;
1) you should at least make 100% sure the CV is okay before removing it.
2) you should never remove the CV on an all-stock car.

if i were you, i'd find the real problem and fix it, not pull random parts to hide the problem.

this just gave me a thought.

i wonder how many 951's without cv's would suddenly run like crap if you install a good cv?

this would be a great test when buying a used 951.

ok. i'll find the real problem. any ideas? i posted this before and pretty much got no input.

remember, i am not after more boost, trust me on this. i would be setting it pretty much stock, .6 BAR at most.

Nynor.... I am sure on that post you posted a little while back .....

I mentioned to test for fault codes on the test port. IF the klr / knocksensor or something is faulty it will record the error.

I think it was your post ????

right, i do need to do that. i'll check it and report back. i read somewhere you could just pop and LED from radio shack in there and it would give you blinks. is this true?