Engine replacement update

hpaulb · 07-12-2006, 12:16 PM

Originally blow #2 con rod. Local Porsche guy sold me a junk motor but gave the money back. Took a chance and ordered a used one from Pennsylvania shipped to Canada. So far it looks like it really only has 70k on it. Metal parts are clean with most of the original plating. Only one seal showing signes of a leak, balance shaft. little wear on the con rod bearing. Cylinders look good from the bottom? Thinking of maybe not even taking the head off. Was told the compression was 175,175-170-173.
Would anyone change just the con rod bearing and bolt here back up? Front belts and bearings changed regardless.
Someone did do a hack up job orange painting the valve cover.

Eldorado · 07-12-2006, 01:15 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by hpaulb
Someone did do a hack up job orange painting the valve cover.

should match well with the yellow exterior

Razorback1980 · Razorback1980's Garage

Hey Paul.....Glad to see you finally have a good motor. It's really a guess about what to do. With me, I chose to replace all my gaskets and seals while I had the motor out and it would be easy. I would also like to have two to three years of a leak free engine..we'll see if that holds up. I would also suggest changing the oil cooler seals if you haven't already done it. You may also want to do what you can to prevent future rod 2 bearing problems (like oil pan baffle or newer style oil pan). I don't know that much about it but several on here do and know what to look for and what not with regards to the rod #2 problem. I think the total for ALL gaskets and seals and all bearings including balance shaft was somewhere around 500 dollars which is a lot I know but I don't want to have to do mine again for a while.

As for the cam cover...still have the old one?

Send me some pictures of that Firebird someday, I'd like to see that!

Britwrench · 07-12-2006, 06:40 PM

As Tom says, it's best to replace everything that accessible when the engine is out, rather than struggle in the car.

So, all the seals and gaskets, oil cooler seals, cam housing gasket, timing belt and yes as the oil pan is off, now is the time to do the rod bearings. Also check everything in the engine compartment...heater hoses etc.....

AA_Ezra · 07-12-2006, 06:53 PM

Yeh, it's been a while. Look's like it's all going to work out. I just bought an engine with similar milage and everthing is clean but might as well replace everthing that i can :P

Speaking of Compressiong, What's a good compression tester unit to go with. I Can get a snap on for liek 40-60$ or a wall mart one for like 20$. Wich one would do the job without major inaccurace?

Razorback1980 · Razorback1980's Garage

I'm not sure about accuracy but the biggest concern for compression is that all cylinders are close to the same number. If you plan to use it often, then snap on is the best option or if those numbers mean a lot as in if you are building a race car and you want top performance, then go with snap on. Otherwise the walmart device will probably suffice. I have a SUN model myself and it works just fine...it's probably the in between model. Probably the biggest difference will be in how long it lasts.

Eldorado · 07-12-2006, 09:54 PM

how do you use the compression tool? thinking of doing it myself..

ae1969 · 07-12-2006, 10:30 PM

I would even go as far as pulling the headgasket.......

If you ever had the pleasure of pulling a 20 year old head gasket the corrosion that eats through it .......is a sight to behold.

hpaulb · 07-13-2006, 06:08 AM

Cheap compresion testers are inacurate as well as having to change the valves and seals often. It's one tool were spending a few bucks more is a good thing. Have been looking for an extension for some time now. Problem with the hoses is getting it tight to the spark plug seat. Borrowed one once, think it was a snap-on, that hade a 6 inch copper tube extension. Allows you to go down the hole, tighten lightly with a wrench then add the tester gauge.
Kyle, you just put it in the spark plug hole and turn the engine over 5 times. All cylinders have to be within 10 pounds of each other or somthing is wrong. Wet test is add a few drops of oil and redo. If I remember correctly, if the compression goes up, its the rings. I think 175 is as new and min spec is 145.

JivenJim · 07-13-2006, 08:41 AM

For Tools I would think you could rent a gauge form an auto store about $6/day or borrow one. Most of us would only use it every few years. A Leakdown test is much better but requires a compressor and better $100 gauge. Don’t buy bad tools EVER man. It’s just a waste of money and space.

hpaulb: Did you blow the Connecting Rod or Bearing?
I would at least change Seals everything I could manage. (like the Razorback said) Paragon sells some nice kits
Crank $172 http://www.*****************.com/product_p/pp944.100.901.03.htm
Front Seals $72: http://www.*****************.com/product_p/944.101.000.00.htm
Valve cover $83 http://www.*****************.com/product_p/pp-928.104.447.09kit.htm
Water Pump $283 http://www.*****************.com/product_p/pp944.106.021.22.htm
Clutch: $515 http://www.*****************.com/product_p/pp944.116.911.00.htm

Add Rod Bearings, new clutch bolts, and off course replace EVERY Air/Water hose (especially the Heater core while engine is out), both belts, thermostat. Sure I’m missing a few but I’d spend the $1200 or so and freshen up those things. Unless your gone just drive it till it ceases and trash it. Like the Midis commercial. Pay now or pay more later. Best luck.

Slam · 07-13-2006, 10:26 AM

Paul, I'm glad you found what you were looking for. I also must apologize for not getting that crank mic'ed - I hope I didn't hold you up.

To echo some of the posts here, I'd do at least all bearings and gaskets. Many things can be done with the engine in the car, but those that can't be are truly next to impossible. Engine-out is the best time to fix.

TheCooler · 07-13-2006, 11:13 AM

I spent about 3700 inc the engine to get my s2 back on the road. I did all the work myself also. Got a little starting problem though ...

Razorback1980 · Razorback1980's Garage

Hey Paul...if I didn't tell you before. Thanks for the help getting my engine out. I struggled with the engine/bell housing separation for a long time questioning if I was doing it right...inventing four letter words nobody has heard before because I was tired of the old ones. Then Candace crawls underneath there with a pry bar and in three minutes the engine broke loose. I was ticked and relieved at the same time...but I'm going to be living with that one for a while. It's out and apart now, so thanks again for your help. Hopefully, I'll get it back in this weekend after I finish replacing my bearings and seals.

hpaulb · 07-14-2006, 06:24 AM

Thanks all. Before I blew the #2 con rod bearing, I had completely rebuilt the top end. All new belts and ft seals/bearing, all hoses etc. Spent alot of time and money then ~500 miles and knock-knock #2. Sure makes a mess. Crank toast. Metal everywere. Scored the cylinder walls and pistons just enough. May be worth machining but from what I'm told, its not like any other engine I,ve rebuilt so may get it looked at later. For now, I'll work on the new one. Really don't have the time but think I'll go ahead anyway and take her all the rest apart.

hpaulb · 07-17-2006, 08:36 AM

Anyone know what kind of sealand can be used in the four corners of the oil pan gasket? Regulat blue.

Slam · 07-17-2006, 09:07 AM

Check out Clark's Garage for this one. To paraphrase, he says use what the factory specifies or use nothing at all. But it's a good read on his website.