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wow, techno, i am beginning to think you are grumpy one!

i'll be taking it off tomorrow.

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Old 03-07-2007, 08:19 PM
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I am getting ready to do this myself and I have read many of the threads on this subject. If I understand this correctly, you remove the tensioner roller first, then remove the hidden nut near the roller end of the tensioner, compress the spring and lock it, then remove the other two hidden nuts near the spring end of the tensioner and remove tensioner assembly. Does this sound correct?

Also, is it worth the extra effort to remove the pulleys on the crank to make it easier to install the timing and balance belts as Clark's manual suggests?

Thanks!
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Old 12-19-2007, 10:44 AM
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I never had to remove the roller in order to remove the nuts, but it's certainly one way to do it. Just have a good look and find where the nuts are...then it's just physics from there.

Removing the crank pulleys is a pain...you need a flywheel lock, breaker bar, gear puller, and possibly removing the radiator if your gear puller doesn't fit in there otherwise (oh, and a torque wrench that can torque the bolt back to 156 ft.lbs.). If you are patient and work carefully you can shimmy the new timing belt into where it needs to go without messing anything up and without removing the pulleys.
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Old 12-19-2007, 05:09 PM
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I've never removed the crank pulleys when I do a timing belt job, just the fans in front of the radiator. I don't remember removing the tensioner arm 1 out of the 3 times... the other times it came off because either the pulley or water pump was coming off. Removing the fans though, that frees up a TON of room down there!
Old 12-19-2007, 08:28 PM
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I can't remember for sure but I don't think i removed the pulley on the tensioner...actually pretty sure I didn't. I think I remove the gear on the crank when I replace the seal, but you shouldn't have to do that unless you are resealing the front of the motor. IIRC
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Old 12-19-2007, 08:44 PM
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Removing the fans is pretty much required. There's just no room for anything with them in there.
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Old 12-20-2007, 08:20 AM
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Thanks everyone for the info/tips. I will tackle the belt removal this weekend. The new belts and rollers won't be here until mid next week. If anyone else has info/tips I would certainly appreciate it.

Thanks!
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Old 12-20-2007, 09:27 AM
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Spring loaded tensioner

I just changed my belts last week on my new '88 951 which has the spring-loaded tensioner. The factory manual said to remove the tensioner, so without consulting this forum, I did. It came off real easy after removing the nut on the pivot stud and the bolt from the slot. Getting it back on was a different story....I struggled with it for at least an hour, and the designer and his mother are probably rolling over in their graves after all the names I called them. As SoCal said, "don't remove it, it's a PITA to re-install". The problem is that there is no way to compress the spring enough to allow you to position the tensioner exactly over the machined post/threaded stud that it swivels on. One thing that I found that helps is that a 944 balance shaft spanner wrench fits perfectly in the 2 small holes in on the face of the tensioner. After locating the end of the spring into its proper location in the tab on the engine block, use the wrench to rotate the tensioner counterclockwise to compress the spring, and then lift the tensioner slightly to align it on the swivel post and push it home. It's a PITFA.........What is really needed is a little spring compressor that could be applied to the spring and be removed after the tensioner is located properly. I'm a tool designer by trade, I will see if I can design and build something to try out.
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Old 12-20-2007, 09:47 AM
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If my memory is correct - it sounds like the last poster disassembled the tensioner rather than simply removing it in one piece. In my experience it came off easily as long as one nut is removed first before compressing the arm and locking it down. Then remove the other two nuts and take the whole thing out of the way.

As far as the crank pulley - I just wiggled the belt in there without removing the pulleys.

Just my 2 cents
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Old 12-20-2007, 06:16 PM
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That what it sounds like to me too. I did that the first time and learned a valuable lesson....do it the right way. There are three nuts that hold it on and it's not hard to take on and off.
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1990 944S2 Cabriolet
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Old 12-20-2007, 07:16 PM
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I couldn't wait until this weekend so I decided to start removing the old belts tonight. Andy, you are exactly right. I studied the tensioner carefully before I attempted to remove it. I located the three bolts and did exactly what you described and the tensioner slipped right off. It might be possible to R/R the belt without removing the tensioner but I am replacing the roller on the end of the tensioner arm, so I needed to remove it. I wiggled the old belt out around the gears and pulleys and it was tight. I hope I don't damage the new belt when I put it in.

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Old 12-20-2007, 07:17 PM
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