(long but informative I hope) So I wanted to fix my lighter and...

[onZedge]

...WHILE I WAS IN THERE I did a few other things.

a) Added fog lights using all the factory wiring. I think Kyle was trying to do the same thing.
-Relays: This involved locating the relay sockets. They are under the dash next to the steering column. The factory relay is two relays in one box and isn't cheap. One relay socket will use a standard $5 Bosch 4-pin relay. The other relay socket needs a little modification. There is a little plastic plug in one of the holes in the socket. Remove and discard it. Now a standard $5 Bosch 5-pin relay goes into the modified socket. The 4-pin relay turns on the fog lights and the 5-pin relay interrupts the fog lights when the high beams are switched on.
-Switch: Next, you will find a funky socket with six wires behind the center console. Three have big pins, three have small pins. I didn't have room for the factory switch because the hole for it was busy with other switches. Get a suitable SPDT rocker or toggle switch (three pins on the back) and connect the wires with the big pins from the funky factory scocket. Green wire to the bottom pin of the switch, Brown/Yellow wire to the center pin of the switch and Gray/Green wire to the top pin of the switch.
-Indicator: The 924S uses the old style instrument cluster with provisions for what looks like turn signal indicators - but they are not. I think the right hand "provision" was used in the '88 for the time-to-change-the-O2-sensor" indicator. Anyway, I used a 5mm green LED with a 10K ohm resistor and wired it to the funky socket behind the center console for fog lights on indication. Brown wire to the cathode side of the LED (short lead). Red/Brown to one end of the resistor. The other end of the resistor connects to the anode side of the LED (longer lead).
-Power: Stick a 16 amp fuse in position 15 of the Relay/Fuse panel if there isn't already one in there.
-Lamps: The factory lights are over a hundred dollars. Each. I happened to have some round Pilot fog lights that somebody gave me a long time ago. There are two holes smaller holes (big holes are for the bumper mounts) on the bottom of the bumper for factory/dealer installed fog lights. You can use these or drill new ones in the aluminum bumper to mount what you have. You will find the factory wiring coming out of the harness behind the bumper. Brown is ground and White/Yellow is fog light power.
-How they work: With the fog light switch in the OFF position the fog lights come on only with the high beam flasher, whether or not the running lights or head lights are on. With the fog light switch in the ON position, the fog lights come on with running lights or headlights. The LED will do exactly what the fog lights do.
-Pohtos:
I'll add these later, it's raining cats and dogs. Any particular shots you want to see?

b) The fog light LED on the instrument cluster looked unbalanced, so I added an amber LED with 10K ohm resistor to the other side. After much mental deliberation, I finally decided to wire it to the injector pulse duration signal just for fun. Pin 1 (injector pulse duration) on the six pin tachometer connector to the cathode side of the LED and pin 5 (ignition switch power) on the six pin tachometer connector to the anode side of the LED. Dont forget to include the resistor in the circuit - doesn't matter which side. I also looked at the wiring diagram for a '83 944 and it appears the same pin numbers with the same functions are available as well - just different wire colors. NOTE: The injector pulse is used by the upshift light and MPG gauge computers. If you have either of these, you can add this circuit too.

At first, I thought this would not be of much use, but I was wrong! At idle you can see the LED flicker. As the engine revs above about 1500 RPM, it flickers so fast, it looks like a steady light. Useless I thought, but as the revs continue to rise the LED gets BRIGHTER AND BRIGHTER. Pretty cool, but I'm easily amused with little lights and other shiny objects. The next useful feature I found was that when you are coasting down while in gear, you can see the injectors shut off completely until the revs fall below about 1300 RPM. This is by design in the Motronicsvoodoobox to reduce fuel consumption and emissions. What makes this useful is that you can see if your TPS is adjusted correctly. With the injectors off at coast-down, depress the gas pedal slightly and the injectors will come on showing you have switched the DME to the part-throttle fuel maps. With the light going on and off as you upshift and downshift, you realize how very busy the FPR really is.

c) I added radiator fan indicator LEDs on the center console, but I already covered that in another recent post.

d) I added "Additional High Beams" or driving lights as well. This is a bit involved as the relay socket and fuse for this is only partially factory wired. I'll cover this in a new post if anybody cares for it.

e) I installed a new CIPA rearview mirror some time ago. I added the permanent wiring for the individual map lights. Very easy actually. Just tap into the Brown and Red wires of the interior light and you are good to go. You don't know how nice and useful map lights are until you have them.

f) I added a swich next to the fog light switch to turn my two additional power amps (two subs and five tweeters) when I'm not listening to AM talk radio. Blue wire from receiver to switch and then switch to amplifier remote terminals. This may seem trivial, but I have already used it for troulbleshooting.

g) I added two more swiches in parallel to disable the MSD ignition and turn on a blinking light in the center console next to the power mirror select switch. Either or both switches disable the ignition. One switch is conveniently mounted next to the foglight switch (useful for establishing oil pressure after an oil change) and the other switch is hidden. The reasoning behind the blinking light should be obvious.

Well, I'm in between jobs so I really have time to do these and other little things I've been putting off. I just wish I had spare cash to do the suspension while I do have this time off.

Disclaimer: Damage caused by doing any of these things correctly or incorrectly is not my problem. Use your common sense.

Oh yeah, the lighter works now!!

[SoCal Driver]

The fog light switch has the indicator lamp. There was none in the instrument console. However having one in the instrument console is a good idea.

My fog light circuit is modified so they can be turned on with just the running lights on. The headlights do not have to be on or rotated up. This also means the fog lights can be on with the regular headlights as well as the brights. Since the "fog" lights have been modified and are really no longer fog lights but aux running lights the added flexibility does what I want it to do.

Yes they still blink as passing lights.

[Eldorado]

i was interested in adding the blinking security light.. how is that done?

[onZedge]

Motormite part # 84918 is a 12Volt blinking red LED with a built-in resistor. Drill a 5/16" hole in one of the switch blanks next to the power mirror selector switch and snap it in. I suggest mounting it there because it is easily visible to petty thieves and MOST IMPORTANTLY visible to you to remind you why your car will not start if you also have the switch that controls it defeat the ignition!

You can get this LED at any auto parts store that carries Motormite products like AutoZone or Advance and I think NAPA. Radio Shack may still carry this exact same thing, but I didn't see it on their web site.

[Aslet]

What did you add for driving lights? One of my next projects is to work on my front light. I think I will replace the sealed beam with some H4 Hella lights and get some pic improvments, but did you add something else that helps light up the night?

[Eldorado]

Aslet, make one of these...
relatively inexpensive, and they work wonders!!!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?threadid=324871&highlight=harness

[Wipeout]

Light harness, then H4 lenses. Just stock wattage with new bulbs and the light harness is enough. I posted a huge thread over at Rennlist detailing some of the stuff you can do (and I still left a lot untouched).

If you're not good with making the electrical stuff yourself, Rennbay sells the harness.