Torn boot-- cv joint won't come off half-shaft

[pinetreeporsche]

An inboard boot is ripped, so I got the six hex-head allen bolts out without much trouble (just lots of leverage), and the split ring/ snap-ring off with a real tool (after my modified needle-nose pliers failed to do it). But now the cv joint should just slide off the axle, but it wouldn't, even with a few good raps with a 12" wrench handle. I'd rather not hit it too hard, as I worry about flat spots on the balls or races. Any ideas, or do I have to grit my teeth and whack it harder with a real hammer?? Thanks

[DSPTurtle]

I always have to press them off on my hydraulic press. You could get a smaller diamter socket and suspend the axle while you hammer on the shaft end. Becareful to make sure you are grabbing the inner portion of the joint and not the outer. Acutally it is easier to jsut take the outer portion apart. If you do that you will find it a lot easier to fight with the pressed on inner portion of the joint.
I can't find a pic on this computer from the last three sets that I did but I am sure someone will post something.
Also, remember the puzzle when reassembling... little portion of outer lines up with big portion of inner. Hopefully you have done these before. If we can't find a pic I will hunt on a different computer so you can see what I am talking about if you need it.

[pinetreeporsche]

Wow-- not what I had hoped to hear. Yes, I did disassemble one or 2 of these 'chinese puzzle boxes' from VW vans in the early 70s, but that's been a while now. For now, I guess un-doing the other 6 hex-bolts and pulling the whole thing off seems prudent-- damn they make it harder than they ought. There exist boots (on my Subaru for instance) that are split along the sides, with little hardware along the edges to secure them. Why couldn't Porsche use those?? Ten min., start to finish.

[onZedge]

a) Clamp the shaft in a vice with the CV joint you want to remove hanging down.
b) Using a ball joint separator (pickle fork - they come in two sizes), rest the tool on the inner race of the CV joint.
c) Hammer away on the tool handle close to the CV joint - you will not hurt your balls this way!

I have four used boots in great condition - no tears or cracks. PM me with an offer. You might as well do both boots, or even all four "while your in there".

[Slam]

Heck, unless you're planning to put new CVs in, leave them where they are, clean and repack them and flip the axle around when you reinstall it.

Or you could beat the stuffing out of it like onZedge says. I did that and really enjoyed it...

[DSPTurtle]

Slam,
I had typed that but then deleted it cause I could not figure out whether or not the boot would be able to slip over that joint. Does the boot fit over that? I thought it had to come off???

[pinetreeporsche]

Thanks, but the job is tough and exasperating enough that I'd like to have very fresh boots on there when I get done-- maybe have them last the lifetime of either me (64 now) or the car (only 100,000k). I wish I could use one of the Subaru boots with the 'zip-up" (with 6 screws/ nuts) installation: cut off the old one with snips, wrap the new one around (after cleaning/regreasing) the joint and axle, screw up the side opening and put on the clamps. No un-bolting of the CV, no removal/replacement! ALSO: Is it considered good practice to turn the CVs around-- that is, will it put the wear zone on different parts of the CV, and give it a longer life?? ANY OPINIONS on that??

[pinetreeporsche]

[QUOTE=Slam;4038369]Heck, unless you're planning to put new CVs in, leave them where they are, clean and repack them and flip the axle around when you reinstall it.

But you (or at least I) can't get the new boot on without pulling off the CV - unless the new boot is slit up the side like some Subaru boots. -Chris H

[cauzomb]

If you don't have the press, or other stuff like gear pullers, try putting the axle between two jaws of a vice, loosely, so that the vice doesn't clamp the axel, just wide enough to not let the cv center part pass through, then use a dead blow plastic/rubber mallet or a piece of wood and regular hammer to whack the axle end, pushing the axle through the cv. Protect your splines! Another way to do this is sort of like a slide hammer, a piece of 2x4 or 4x4 that is longer than the axle, by a good foot or so, place the edge of the wood against the cv joint center at a little bit of an angle, hold both the wood and the axle tight, lift it up in the air a bit and slam the wood against the ground so the weight of the axle is forcing against the wood, which should still be on the cv- center.. Hold on to the axle real tight, so that you don't drop it and mess up the splines on the other end.. If you are not doing both sides, wrap the good CV/boot with a couple plastic bags and tape it up to the axle, probly should do that as soon as you get it off the hub, keeps the dirt/grit out of it while you work on the other end.

The cupped spring washer comes off the same way but you gotta turn the axle often so you don't taco the washer. Most times it's just as hard to get back on, it goes on with the round side facing the axle, so the center of the washer is touching the axle and the outer is touching the cv joint. When you start putting it all back together, and get to the part where the c-clip doesn't go on all the way, use a big socket that fits over the axle but not the c-clip, hammer on the socket or pipe to seat the c-clip back into it's groove, the cupped washer is keeping it from going home, so you gotta use enough hammer force to compress that cupped washer behind the cv joint. There may be a noticeable sharp inside edge of that c-clip. Some have it, some don't.. A slightly rounded off edge. Sharp edge should be facing OUT, towards the end of the axle, rounded off inside edge facing the cv joint, to slip over smoother? if you get it backwards, it may pop out of the groove.

[Slam]

Sorry, I should have read things more closely. But then again, even to change both boots all you need is one CV to come off. I've never had them hang up so bad they'd need a press to get them off. Or maybe I'm just an animal with the hammer. If I did run into that kind of trouble (where they were really, really stuck), I'd take them to a shop and have someone else curse them.

[pinetreeporsche]

How about I clean up the boot and what's inside, esp. the grease, re-grease it, and then put a Subaru zip-up-the-side boot over it? Saves any more disassembly!

[Slam]

There you go! Purists will say the weight of the zipper will throw the shaft out of balance... Which often happens in the real world, although not with cars...

[cauzomb]

with these cars, the zipper's likely to come into contact with a 3" exhaust pipes heatsheild.