Power Steering R&R

[TexasBlake]

I'm in the process of changing my rod bearings; while while I'm doing it I'm going to rebuild my leaking power steering rack and the ball joints on the control arms.

However, I'm not sure as to what to do with the power steering hoses. I've read about all the leaks in the hoses; but is this just mostly certain hoses or all hoses? The undercarriage of my 951 is so oily it's hard to differentiate between the hoses that are good and bad. I plan on replacing the pressure line that comes in front of the rack, but what about the return lines? Also, is it so much the HOSES that fail, or is it the hardware like the copper washers that could fix problems?

Just looking for some info. I do all my work myself, have no help, and I don't know any Porsche owners that could give me some insight. I'm used to dealing with lots of other cars that all have their part failures, so I'm thinking maybe y'all will let me know. The hoses are expensive and I don't want to buy them if I don't need them, especially if there are certain ones that the general 944 crowd says "Yeah, that one blows up"

A manual rack is not really my cup of tea. I bought a 951 not for the track (well, I plan on occasionally taking it there when I finish these round of repairs) but for road trips and just enjoying driving.


Here is what I'm dealing with:

Sure is nasty under there:


Do y'all think this rack needs a rebuild!!!!????!!!!

[bazar01]

As far as rebuilding the rack, you can try getting the rebuild kit from our host (not sure if available) or from an online parts store if you have the tools and skills. If not, you can just get a rebuilt rack and get a warranty.
As far as hoses, the pressure hose really needs to be replaced as seen on the pic. They are known to leak. A hydraulic shop can replace the hose cheaper. They cut the metal tubes and silver solder a JIC fitting on them so a regular hydraulic hose with fittings used for heavy equipment can be used and can be replaced much cheaper next time. Do not forget to retrieve the restrictor inside the rubber hose.
Return lines don't normally leak. The supply hose from the reservoir to the pump leaks also. You can get an updated hose and fitting replacement. You can reuse the copper crush washers if you can't get a replacement. I reused mine and they are dry.
The pump can be rebuilt using rebuild kits from our host or any online parts store. I don't see your pump leaking yet..''but they do leak and whine.
Good luck.

[John_AZ]

Thanks for the info about the pressure hose replacement done at a hydraulic shop bazar01.

I would also replace the PS reservoir. The filter clogs and the cost is only $20+-.

I replaced my tie rod ends since the rubber was cracked. While a pickle fork can be used and pounded forever, you can "rent with deposit" a tie rod end remover
from a good auto parts store.

GL
John_AZ
1988 924S + 1987 924S

[djnolan]

Tex, you have my sympathies. I so far have found the power steering leaks in my 85 to be a major pita. I think the ps design was an afterthought with all of the extra hoses, etc, when in comparison to other car designs. Very prone to problems.

Anyway, the PO had replaced the rack about two years ago. There were a few minor drips around the reservoir, so I replaced these two lines. Gradually I started having problems with the thing cavitating after startup. Air was getting into the system somehow. There are so many places where leaks can occur, but I conclude the cavitation is caused by either a high pressure hose leak or a shaft seal leak, as all of the other hoses and crush washers seem tight. Can anyone tell me which one causes the cavitation? Or is it something else I need to look for?

[TexasBlake]

I will look into replacing all the hoses I can afford, starting with the pressure lines.

Thanks

[djnolan]

This approach might be the answer to some of your problems...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=11380&goto=newpost

[John_AZ]

Originally Posted by djnolan

There are so many places where leaks can occur, but I conclude the cavitation is caused by either a high pressure hose leak or a shaft seal leak, as all of the other hoses and crush washers seem tight. Can anyone tell me which one causes the cavitation? Or is it something else I need to look for?

Good 2001 link dj.

Back to your question,

You have replaced the lines and PO replaced the rack.

If you do not have any ATF fluid coming out of the PS rack ends, I would suggest you get a PS pump rebuild kit AND 4 new crush copper washers for the hoses to rack :
http://www.*****************.com/category_s/191.htm

GL
John_AZ

[djnolan]

This is the situation. I have new crush washers on the pump and the rack was replaced about three years ago. Is there anything else these leaks could be?




Thanks for any help.

[John_AZ]

OK,
Picture 1. Take your car to magic wand car wash and get rid of the road and engine dirt. Do not get water on distributer cap or any top of engine wiring.
This makes it easier to find oil paths.
Picture 2. Bottom of PS pump by belt adjuster.
The oil looks like it is coming from the hoses at the bottom of the PS reservoir-red ATF.
Wipe down the hoses as far as possible and try to get under the plastic protector wrap as far as possible. Place a tiny, small white shop rag under the hoses from the reservoir ----on top of the frame. The hose pressure on the frame should be enough pressure to keep the rag in place or tie it to the hose with a bag tie. Watch for oil.

Picture 3 & 4 Different view of bottom of PS rack on drivers side. The small black dirt/dust cap is used to center the rack before you attach it to the steering shaft.
Pull the black boot off of the PS rack and check for fluid. None should be there or you have a bad PS gasket in the rack. The red ATF drips should not be there. You said you replaced the PS pump crush washers. OK, a rebuilt rack does not come with 4 new copper crush washers and many reuse the old. This is why I suggested to get 4 new crush washers. If there is no fluid in the rack boots-cross your fingers, it might be the rack hose crush washers (pressure and return hose only, not short PS rack pipes). These are real hard to get to. Between rack and front crossmember. If the hex bolt is striped-many are, use a locking pliers on the edges and get new ones. Again very hard to get at-maybe try to tighten at first.

FYI Just nice to know... PS fluid stop leak is a very temporary solution at best and only if you plan to replace the rack in a couple of months. It will make the problem worse shortly.

GL
John_AZ

[bazar01]

After washing all the oil traces, just drive the car with all the engine under trays off for a while and observe the leak source.

Pump - leaks from fittings and pump parting line. pump needs a rebuild kit and fittings may need new crush washers or hose clamps on the supply hose nipple.

Hoses - pressure hose is leaking on the rack end.

Rack and pinion - John_Az mentioned about stripped hex head banjo fitting and failed to tighten properly or may need new crush washers. AT F on rack boot indicates rack end seals are leaking. R&P may not have been professionally rebuilt

With lots of patience, time and a little cash you can resolve those PS leaks.

[Tim Hancock]

These guys sell a rebuild kit. I have used it on my '87 924S.... no more leaks.

They have a tutorial... kind of tedious job, but mine came out fine. Just be sure to note which way seals are installed as you take it apart.

http://www.rennbay.com/info_pages.php?pages_id=19

[djnolan]

One other observation, when started it makes a cavitation noise. If I rev her up a little and crank the wheel to the stops a couple times, I end up with a big puddle of fluid under the pump.

By "pump parting line" do you mean the pump housing seals? Would this cause the gush I describe? Pump rebuild is top of the list I guess!

Thanks for all the advice.

[bazar01]

One other observation, when started it makes a cavitation noise. If I rev her up a little and crank the wheel to the stops a couple times, I end up with a big puddle of fluid under the pump.

For some reason, these pumps hum. I still need to know why. After fixing all the PS leaks on my son's S2, the pump still whines a low pitch sound. I bought a used one and will install it when he comes home. The only thing I can think of is there might be a little leak on the suction side of the pump causing cavitation.

By "pump parting line" do you mean the pump housing seals? Would this cause the gush I describe? Pump rebuild is top of the list I guess!

The pump is not a whole casting. it is split into two cases, and the line where the two parts meet is the parting line. The parting line is a machined surface sealed by special o-rings I believe. When you split the case, you will see what seals the surfaces. That is a possible leak source