Brake questions

[Ez-Bone]

I was curious about something;

Most almost everywhere I go I've seen brake lines (braided) for 100$+ but when I go to eBay, I find them über cheap, like 75$ for the front and rear, both sides.

Should I be wherry of them, like, are they offbrands?

Simply put; I want you guy's opinion on what I should do. The listings I've found on eBay don't seem to have a name brand anything but claim that their stuff works and meets and/or exceeds O.E.M specifications.

It's the same dilemma with brake discs I have found on eBay. I found a cross-drilled/slotted set for 120$ both fronts and 90$ for both rear. But when I was about to buy them, several people nearly bit my head off saying not to get them cause they weren't name brand, but some name brands are just over the hedge expensive (and this isn't just Porsche products, I've noticed others, even domestics, to be wicked high in prices, some higher than Porsche). My cousin says to just get a basic O.E.M brake disc and have the holes drilled into it and/or have it slotted but aren't the 944 O.E.M discs smaller than aftermarket?

I'm at a stalemate here, what do I do? Are offbrand things safe to get from eBay or do I have to stick to name brand only?

[jcommin]

I did buy Zimmerman rotors off ebay.

[Ez-Bone]

Originally Posted by jcommin

I did buy Zimmerman rotors off ebay.

I too see that you can get name brand but 92% of the listings that are name brand are still just as high, you might be able to save a few bucks... ugh, I dunno. But I just checked eBay before posting this threat and I did find some Zimms but they were 185 for O.E.M replacement. The aftermarkets (bigger discs) I found were 300$+

[jcommin]

I shop and research before I buy. Many places have free shipping that saves additional money. Like anything else you buy - gotta do the homework.

[Ez-Bone]

Originally Posted by jcommin

I shop and research before I buy. Many places have free shipping that saves additional money. Like anything else you buy - gotta do the homework.

I know, I know; just I get so excited sometimes I guess I panic lol

But Zimms I know are good cause of their reputation and whatnot but is there a substitute for Zimm? I don't know if you've seen those other offbrand discs but if I were to get those offbrand ones what would I have to be worried about? List some things that name brand has over offbrand, just elaborate. I'm just curious.

[flash968]

i am not a big ebay or amazon fan - i prefer to spend perhaps a couple of bucks more to get something from somebody i trust - the frustration of having to deal with a return to an ebay vendor usually far outweighs the cost difference of any given part - i have just had the "pleasure" of doing that very thing with something i ordered on amazon, and with some stuff that my better half got from ebay vendors - sure the price was lower than the local guy - but, when we got the wrong part, repackaging, restocking fee, and return shipping ended up being more than the savings

customer support is invaluable

[John_AZ]

On both products there is a quality issue.

Similar to brake pads. You can get cheap pads or go with MetalMaster, ceramic or multiple combinations.

I have been looking at front rotors for a while since my 1987 924S is now at minimum at 19.1mm thickness (my rotors have it stamped-Pelican says 18.5mm to replace).

The inexpensive rotors will stop the car. There may eventually be slight vibration, warping under sever-continuous braking (heat build up) or rust. The steel brake lines will, under normal driving conditions, should not rupture or deteriorate. If you "occasionally" feel the need to push your car, you may be more comfortable (stopping) with the specifications of OEM performance standards and material quality.

On a related note, when you change your brake lines, replace all the fluid. Do not mix original DOT 3 with a synthetic brake fluid. It has been mentioned the combination of fluids may clog the cyl and lines. This should be done every couple of years anyway since brake fluid attracts moisture. Flush the clutch lines as well. This is easy to do if you have a power brake bleeder. Without this tool you may have a hard time getting the slave cyl bled.


I will stick with the tested Zimmerman rotors and OEM lines.

GL
John_AZ

[SuperXRAY]

I purchased new Zimmerman rotors, both front and rear, that were drilled, slotted, and powder-coated later from eBay. I also purchased ceramic pads off eBay. Now, they aren't race hardware, but they are good enough to go on the car, give it better brakes, and make it look a bit better. I doubt the powder-coating will last long, but we will see. I paid $520 for all the rotors and pads and shipping. I wouldn't skimp on lines, as cheap lines are usually only covered in braid, they aren't actually braided lines.

[porsche4life]

I picked a nice used set of zims for 30bucks on ebay. Dont need them yet but it was too cheap to resist.

[Ez-Bone]

Originally Posted by John_AZ

On both products there is a quality issue.

Similar to brake pads. You can get cheap pads or go with MetalMaster, ceramic or multiple combinations.

I have been looking at front rotors for a while since my 1987 924S is now at minimum at 19.1mm thickness (my rotors have it stamped-Pelican says 18.5mm to replace).

The inexpensive rotors will stop the car. There may eventually be slight vibration, warping under sever-continuous braking (heat build up) or rust. The steel brake lines will, under normal driving conditions, should not rupture or deteriorate. If you "occasionally" feel the need to push your car, you may be more comfortable (stopping) with the specifications of OEM performance standards and material quality.

On a related note, when you change your brake lines, replace all the fluid. Do not mix original DOT 3 with a synthetic brake fluid. It has been mentioned the combination of fluids may clog the cyl and lines. This should be done every couple of years anyway since brake fluid attracts moisture. Flush the clutch lines as well. This is easy to do if you have a power brake bleeder. Without this tool you may have a hard time getting the slave cyl bled.


I will stick with the tested Zimmerman rotors and OEM lines.

GL
John_AZ

Hmm, from what you said it sounds like the cheaper ones would be ok for the daily driver with no 'competition' involved. You know, something to get me by till I can really start putting the top dollar things on my babe.

Few questions;

1. I've been hearing rumor that 944 owners take the brake sets from 996s and put them on their 944s. Is this possible? Are the brakes bigger or just have that much better performance? should I get those or the Wilwood kits I've been seeing allot? Simply put, I want bigger brakes (what are the 944 rotor sizes anyway compared to these so called big brake kits?).

2. Are there any OEM braided lines? Or do you know of any brands that meet or exceed OEM specifications?

and 3. With the motive bleeder, do I still have to jack the arse of the car higher than the nose to bleed the clutch system?

[porsche4life]

I have heard of using 993s but never brakes off a 996. Lots of money in the 993 swap tho.

[Ez-Bone]

Originally Posted by porsche4life

I have heard of using 993s but never brakes off a 996. Lots of money in the 993 swap tho.

Ack! sorry, typo there, yes, 993 brakes! But how much bigger are those compared to the 944's brakes? In all honesty they don't look much bigger... unless, they're just thicker

[porsche4life]

I dont know the specs but I know they are bigger and grip better.

[Ez-Bone]

Originally Posted by porsche4life

I dont know the specs but I know they are bigger and grip better.

Ah, well how much do you think a kit would cost? I may look into getting a kit.

[sl66ICEcuba]

If you are worried about the price of aftermarket rotors off ebay, never mind cheaper Zimm's, I don't think you are going to like the cost of doing the 993 brake conversion. The most bang for your buck would be a good set of rotors, pads, and lines

[BeerBurner]

Given what you are looking at doing, I'd go with name brand parts rather than cheap knock-offs.

On Miatas, you can get away with cheap blank rotors... many spec Miata racers do just that without problem, although you don't need much brake to stop a twelve-pound car. I'm not sure how that'll translate to the 944 so I'll refrain from talking out of my arse.

But with drilled rotors, I wouldn't cheap out. Personally, considering how they are more failure-prone to begin with versus blanks, I'd spend the extra money to get something that was more likely done properly. That said, I wouldn't buy drilled rotors in the first place since I track the car but I do think they look great.

Regarding the brake hoses, again, I'd spend the extra money on the good ones. Since the steel braiding makes it harder to visually inspect the lines, I'd sleep better at night if I was comfortable that they were assembled properly.

Were it me (and it will be soon) I'd just buy blanks, quality pads/fluid and leave it at that. Maybe the brake lines, too, although I'm not in any rush to change those.

Just my $0.02, of course.

BB.

[John_AZ]

Originally Posted by Ez-Bone

Hmm, from what you said it sounds like the cheaper ones would be ok for the daily driver with no 'competition' involved. You know, something to get me by till I can really start putting the top dollar things on my babe.

Few questions;

1. I've been hearing rumor that 944 owners take the brake sets from 996s and put them on their 944s. Is this possible? Are the brakes bigger or just have that much better performance? should I get those or the Wilwood kits I've been seeing allot? Simply put, I want bigger brakes (what are the 944 rotor sizes anyway compared to these so called big brake kits?).

2. Are there any OEM braided lines? Or do you know of any brands that meet or exceed OEM specifications?

and 3. With the motive bleeder, do I still have to jack the arse of the car higher than the nose to bleed the clutch system?

Q1-Look at this link:
http://www.speedforceracing.com/productsporsche_brakeupgradekits.php
Q2-ATE is the Porsche OEM supplier.
Pelican Parts sells DOT certified highway stainless break lines for our cars. The interesting thing is that for the 911 Pelican sells the "-3"==DASH 3 quality lines with the inner teflon reinforced with stainless steel and the outer stainless steel cover. I did not see this for the 944s. Ask when you order. Another link:
http://www.goodridge.co.uk/buy-goodridge-hoses.htm

Again maybe go with the best DOT approved highway Pelican stainless hoses until you go "big bucks".

Q3-If you replace the Master and Slave clutch cyl and hose, you will still have to raise the rear due to the mounting of the slave. It will trap an air pocket and the petal will be soft. I have no problem in raising the car to the top of my jack stand when I do a normal system flush.

GL
John_AZ

[jcommin]

A question you need to ask is: How good were the stock pads? How long did they last and did they do what you asked them to do?

I replaced my brakes with Zimmerman's bought off ebay similar to Super Xray except mine are black. Rather than resurface the stock ones, I went new. I replaced the pads with OEM Porsche pads I bought off ebay. I got a deal on them. Finally I bought a set of SS brake lines to complete the rebuild. Took everything apart, cleaned, painted, rebuild and assembled. I new a new spring kit from Pelican to complete the assembly. Everything else look new and finished, I couldn't stand to put on the rusty spring kit.

My car stops as good as original. Now I have never raced this or had it on a track. If I was of that mind set, I would have investigated brake mods.

I have this philosophy that I live by. Any rebuild, repair, mod, etc, I consdier my time the most valuable. The last thing I want to do is to take something apart that I recently finished to replace an item that I went cheap on.

Ask yourself " what do I wamt out of my brakes?", the answer becomes clear.


Good luck