Motor Mount Install help

Ga 951 · 03:38 PM

Got the old ones out ... finally. Can't seem to get the "rubber ears" into the crossmember. Is there a trick? can't twist them in, haven't been able to pry them in.

Currently, the xmember detached from the chassis and is supported by jack stand and the engine by a floor jack and wood block under the oil pan. I'm also wondering if I need a front end alignment even though I didn't remove the control arms or tie rods.

TIA

pschaars951 · pschaars951's Garage

I had the cross member full out when I did mine. I used a large c-clamp to help me get them seated. As for getting the whole thing bolted up, I spent a long time raising one side, bolting it on. Backing the bolts out to just two turns, moving to the other side raising it up and trying to get the bolts started. I went back and forth many times. In hind sight, I may just work on getting the motor mounts threaded first since there is some flexibility in the mounts. And then worry about the cross member bolts.

Also, I had a pain getting the steering knuckle back on. I ended up getting a short block of wood and lightly hammering it down. I couldn't get a perfect angle, was maybe 15 degrees off. I don't recommend that, since I don't know how much damage I could do to the steering unit, but I was at wits end. It went on very quickly though.

-Pete

John_AZ · 07-31-2011, 04:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ga 951

Got the old ones out ... finally. Can't seem to get the "rubber ears" into the crossmember. Is there a trick? can't twist them in, haven't been able to pry them in.

Currently, the xmember detached from the chassis and is supported by jack stand and the engine by a floor jack and wood block under the oil pan. I'm also wondering if I need a front end alignment even though I didn't remove the control arms or tie rods.TIA

Just use a 3 foot crow bar to separate/increase the distance for the motor mounts. Pry it wider a little. Then the motormounts will twist in.

You should have only unbolted one side completely. The other side should still have the frame bolts attached a couple of threads

When you unbolted the crossmember, did you put deep scribe marks in the frame before you began around where the crossmember fits to the frame?

If no, an alignment may be necessary.

GL
John

Ga 951 · 07-31-2011, 06:43 PM

Pete
Thanks for the quick reply, I hope I don't have to completely drop the xmember....don't really want to deal with the steering.

John,
Thanks for the info regarding the x member. I scribed the bolts per Clarks but not the frame, so guess I'll be getting an alignment. I don't really understand how the crowbar will help. The mount is in the bottom part (stud) of the crossmember but the rubber tang needs to fit in the cup on the upper side of crossmember. Increasing the distance between the crossmember and the engine carrier will not make ti twist any easier. The problem is the tang is a fraction (~1/8) of an inch higher than the top of the cup it fits into, keeping it from twisting in. Compressing the mount may help, but them I can't twist it!

AKA_951 · 08-01-2011, 07:45 AM

I lubed my "rubber ear" up with a bit of motor oil. I got my 19mm wrench and layed it across the top of the ear. I used the wrench as a "pull-up" bar and PLOP! The ear popped into place (not, I crapped my pants)

may work

John_AZ · 08-01-2011, 08:04 AM

yup ^

You do have the front sway bar totally disconnected and laying on the ground--right?

John

Ga 951 · 08-01-2011, 08:49 AM

sway bar is completely off.

will try the lube and pry

Thanks

Dan Himan · Dan Himan's Garage

Are you install the dueschparts aftermarket turbo engine mounts? If so don't install. I had to modify mine slightly, because after 10 hours, I realized they are slightly larger, and they failed 3 months later.

Dan Himan · Dan Himan's Garage

With the cross member and sway bar disconnected, engine supported and slightly raised, you should not have to pry the mounts in.

Rasta Monsta · Rasta Monsta's Garage

Don't lube with dino oil. . .I'd use lithium to protect the rubber.

Ga 951 · 08-01-2011, 12:30 PM

Thanks guys,

I using Porsche OEM mounts. They are different than the orig I took out. Updated I guess.

Unless I don't have installed right, they just don't seen to want to slide into the xmember pocket.
I tried prying them, but still no help.

Time to go to work so the saga will have to be continued next weekend

John_AZ · 08-01-2011, 01:46 PM

The new style motor mounts have the 4mm "shoulder" instead of a 4mm washer.

Did your new MMs come with new bolts?

You have the floor jack under the oil pan with a big 2X4. Lift up a little more on the oil pan. Not a lot. If you get a little more clearance, then use the 3 foot crow bar +- to give you the rest of the needed clearance.

I put a new set of OEM Porsche in last year with out difficulty.

GL
John

Ga 951 · 08-02-2011, 06:13 AM

John,
Unless I misunderstand the xmember, isn't the pocket that the rubber ear fits into a part of the xmember? If I have the MM installed in position (ie. the stud portion in the bottom hole of the xmember), how does lifting the motor help the ear go into the pocket since it is part of the xmember? Raising the motor doesn't make the pocket clearance any bigger.

Re the bolts
Did not get new bolts with the MM. I understand I need some longer bolts for the left MM. According to Clark's, I don't use the spacers that were on the car, just normal washers. What doesn't make since to me is that I just need longer bolts for the left side since all the 8M bolts were the same length and I remove all the spacers.

Anyhow, thanks for the advise

AKA_951 · 08-02-2011, 01:32 PM

Yes, prying the motor is only needed to get the main stud in the Xmember hole...

Once mine was in, lubing the ear was all it needed. I placed the pull-up bar over the edge of the ear so it would pull the ear down and into the Xmember pocket.

Don't forget to talk trash while you're doing all of this, and when it goes in, find some babies to kiss

Ga 951 · 08-02-2011, 06:19 PM

Thanks for the laugh AKA

Ga 951 · 08-12-2011, 06:10 PM

UPDATE....success !
Finally got back to the MM today, after a bunch of "persuasion" still no luck. After walking away for while (beer break

) I started trying to figure why I was so far off. I was getting the "ears" to go in the pocket but the bolt holes just wouldn't line up. I finally realized the engine was out of position. The first day I had worked on it, I had to move the jack that supported the engine, when I put it back, it must have shifted the engine just a bit so things wouldn't line up. Anyhow with some prying against a block of wood and the engine carrier things lined up and I was able the hand tighten the bolts into the mounts...Phew..

Would like to confirm that you DON'T use nuts on the new 8m mount bolts (just on the 10m chassis stud). Clarks write up says to use a 42mm bolt on driver's side but seems like a 40mm goes just to the bottom of the MM threads and is what I used on the pass side.

Thanks for the help guys