Denso 10P15 vs 10PA15 Clutch Solenoid

[notMyScreenName]

Greetings,

Does anybody know if there is any difference between the clutch solenoid used on the Nippondenso 10P15 a/c compressor and the one used on the 10PA15? (For that matter, what is the difference between the 10P15 and 10PA15 in general). I need an a/c clutch solenoid for a 951 (10P15E) and the only ones I can find specifically for that compressor are comically expensive (nearly $200). I've found solenoids for the 10PA15 for much less absurd prices but want to make sure that they will fit/work correctly on the 10P15.

If they are different, does anyone know of a good source (with non-silly prices) for either the 10P15E solenoid or a compressor clutch assembly (which I don't need) that includes the solenoid? As long as it fits and has a long enough wire I don't care what the connector is as I can splice it.

Thanks!

[mattdavis11]

I have 3 good ones laying around, new nose bearing on the pulley too if you want the whole assembly. I'll have to get back later with the exact differences, but to my knowledge (as of now) they are not interchangeable. The body of the 10PA is different than the 10P. Longer nose, I believe.

I'll check back in later, but you are welcome to what I have. Make an offer.

[notMyScreenName]

Originally Posted by mattdavis11

I have 3 good ones laying around, new nose bearing on the pulley too if you want the whole assembly. I'll have to get back later with the exact differences, but to my knowledge (as of now) they are not interchangeable. The body of the 10PA is different than the 10P. Longer nose, I believe.

I'll check back in later, but you are welcome to what I have. Make an offer.

Thanks... I am interested. I will get back to you a little later tonight after I take the compressor off and apart to make sure that it is otherwise OK (I don't know why the solenoid shorted).

[notMyScreenName]

@mattdavis11

Check your PM.

[mattdavis11]

PM sent. Coils sometimes short to ground when the front seal blows. They can also get very hot, melting the insulation and ruining it.

Show me some pictures, and I'll be able to tell you.

[notMyScreenName]

Originally Posted by mattdavis11

PM sent. Coils sometimes short to ground when the front seal blows. They can also get very hot, melting the insulation and ruining it.

Show me some pictures, and I'll be able to tell you.

Photo attached.

I am certainly no expert on this, but it looks like the pulley was rubbing on on the coil and I had been hypothesizing that that friction caused enough heat to melt some of the insulation and short the coil - or short it enough that it overheated and melted even more from the excess current. The places where the pulley was rubbing on the magnet both line up with the direction that the belt tension would be pulling the pulley. The coil doesn't seem to be deformed so I am assuming that contact with the pulley was a cause of the failure and not a result? Does that make sense?

There is a sort-of reddish dust covering the coil and everything around it (compressor, driver-side fan, belt, hoses, etc.) that wasn't there a few months ago. I was presuming that it came from the once red colored plastic in the magnet. I think you can see it pretty well in the photo. (The rust looking stuff isn't rust but whatever this red dust is. There is no rust)

The front seal on the compressor looks fine with no signs (or measurement - I have a sniffer) of leaking. The seal is relatively new - I replaced it along with all the other compressor seals (they were all leaking pretty badly) and other AC seals about a year ago and the AC had been working fine until the coil shorted a few weeks ago.

Anyway... I would greatly appreciate any expertise that you can ofter. I can fix this problem easy enough, but I certainly don't want it to happen again!

Thanks!

[mattdavis11]

Nose bearing went south, could have been caused by too much tension on the belt. I hope it didn't mess up the nose of the compressor.

You have PM, it's ready to ship, never found my box of seals, bearings etc...

[notMyScreenName]

Originally Posted by mattdavis11

Nose bearing went south, could have been caused by too much tension on the belt. I hope it didn't mess up the nose of the compressor.

You have PM, it's ready to ship, never found my box of seals, bearings etc...

Thanks. I'll have a new bearing on Monday and the compressor's nose looks OK. The compressor shaft also turns freely without any noticeable friction. I'm going to have a look inside the compressor today just to make sure everything looks OK. Is there anything in particular I should look for?

[mattdavis11]

Discoloration of the oil. Turn it upside down and drain some out to check. If you see black oil or metal shavings, it's bad news. If it's clear or slightly tented, all is good.

[notMyScreenName]

Originally Posted by mattdavis11

Discoloration of the oil. Turn it upside down and drain some out to check. If you see black oil or metal shavings, it's bad news. If it's clear or slightly tented, all is good.

Thanks. The oil looks good and contains no metal shavings or any other debris. I guess I'm actually kind-of lucky that the coil failed before any other damage could be done.

I do have one other question if you don't mind... When I replaced all the compressor seals last year I noticed that some of the plastic/rubber coating (or just paint?) on the, I guess, valve cover was peeling off (see photo). One person I asked (who probably didn't really know) said not to worry about it, and it hasn't gotten any worse in the past year... but should I? And if so what should I do about it?

Thanks again!

[mattdavis11]

I find it far fetched that you'd be even be able to find new valve parts, so there is no need to worry. I can't find them new, but I do I have some used laying around.