FYI Motor Oil 20W-50, NFG & not factory approved, see page 111 of Owner Manual

[flash968]

??? believe what you want. i really don't care. there are so many people in and out of here that can attest to what i say being reality that i really don't worry about naysayers. frankly naysayers are my best advertising. they cause other people to seek me out and try what i am doing, and then they tell two friends.................

[CHICKS]

Blah blah blah. You're full of ****. Eveything you type is ****. The only ones who feed into your **** are idiots.

Wont be long until you slip and become banned from Pelican like you are from Rennlist.

[flash968]

lol - whatever.

come on down. happy to show you whatever you'd like.

[H.F.944]

Originally Posted by CHICKS

This has NOTHING to do with us. That's from 1997, and for a Boxster.

Just pay attention to ..."Note: The engine oils ...can also be unrestrictedly used retroactively for all 4, 6, and 8-cylinder Porsche engines from model year 1973 onwards."...

[CHICKS]

Originally Posted by H.F.944

Just pay attention to ..."Note: The engine oils ...can also be unrestrictedly used retroactively for all 4, 6, and 8-cylinder Porsche engines from model year 1973 onwards."...

Uh huh, and if you read the newest Porsche TSB it says we can use 0w40....

http://www.pcarworkshop.com/images/1/1c/1701_2003_10103usgeolab.pdf

That's NOT the newest TSB, regardless...

[H.F.944]

Originally Posted by CHICKS

Uh huh, and if you read the newest Porsche TSB it says we can use 0w40....

http://www.pcarworkshop.com/images/1/1c/1701_2003_10103usgeolab.pdf

That's NOT the newest TSB, regardless...

That's what I'm running

[VirginiaF1]

Originally Posted by CHICKS

I don't believe it. You got called out for the second time on you BS.

I do so love oil threads..
AND cheaper than cable.

[CHICKS]

Originally Posted by VirginiaF1

I do so love oil threads..
AND cheaper than cable.

Me too.

[flash968]

it's absolutely hysterical how wound up some people get over oil. it's ironic that they are also almost always the ones with no data whatsoever to support their position.

i have now confirmed that i never signed up for the online provision of records. i know i tossed all of the hard copy stuff i had for prior to the engine build, as that was then useless, as i was only sending it in to find out what was going on. i'm still looking for the printout of the one time i sent it in after the engine build. it's not in the engine build file, where i thought it would be. i know i have it here though.

regardless, i'm now due for a change, even though the oil looks and smells clean. i built the engine 2.5 years ago at 55k, and then changed the oil at 1000miles, where i sent the oil in for analysis. it's now at 62k and ready for a change. i'll send it in again when i do.

[ernie9944]

Originally Posted by VirginiaF1

I do so love oil threads..
AND cheaper than cable.

+1 very entertaining,but like any oil thread pass & present full of BS.

[Lear35A]

Blackstone is great. I've used them for years for my plane engine. Just give em a call and they'll send you a copy of the last one.
The real value of using oil analysis is in monitoring trends, not so much getting a snapshot of one particular oil change.

[azbanks]

Does anyone have any info on Motul.

Flash, come sit in traffic on the freeway in Phoenix for 45-60 minutes when it is 118. Yeah, 20-50 is good for that.

(Hot summers in Canada. LOL! LOL! Some of you guys crack me up. )

[flash968]

yeah - blackstone is great. tracking the trend is what i plan on for the future. i started with them just to try to figure out what was wrong with the engine. it was helpful. it confirmed that i needed to rebuild it. then, after the rebuild, i ran the test to make sure nothing odd was in there. now, i will just continue to do it to keep track of things. i don't put a lot of miles on the car though, so it could take years between oil changes.

even at 118 outside, i would be willing to bet the oil doesn't get above 230 on a street car. the 968 has an oil thermostat in it that is set at 205. i had a temp gauge on that for a long time, and i never saw it get above about 220 on the street. a 10-40 synthetic is more than adequate for that. however, were i to take the car back onto the track, i would probably run a 20-50, as i could see temps get up to about 260. a dino oil wouldn't hold up for long though, no matter what viscosity.

[sushiman007]

My 84 N/A has more than 90,000-miles.
I am curious to know, if I'm already using Mobil One 15w-50 (which has good zddp content) do I still need to use zddp additives such as ZDDPlus for a regular oil change; or is that unnecssary?

[sausagehacker]

No, it's fine as it is. Our flat tappet lifters love that M1 15/50

[DannoXYZ]

My 84 N/A has more than 90,000-miles.

I am curious to know, if I'm already using Mobil One 15w-50 (which has good zddp content) do I still need to use zddp additives such as ZDDPlus for a regular oil change; or is that unnecssary?

Don't do it with 15-50. it's one of the few viscosities that's exempt from the lower ZDDP limits starting with the SM ratings. This is not one of those "more is better" things. There's an optimum amount, 1200-1400ppm. Having more than that will actually increase wear due to galling.

[sushiman007]

Wow, that (Zinc level @1300 ppm) is right there in the middle!
Sounds perfect. Thanks, guys!

[333pg333]

It's funny how Mobil 'suddenly' came out with oils that had more ZDDP in them than what they'd been peddling for years beforehand. A lot of premature engine wear occurred by people who were either romanced by the Mobil Corp kool aid or just left it up to their workshop who themselves were probably just going off what Porsche US spouted. All part of a big con job but they got caught out and had to back pedal. Hence ZDDP found it's way back into their mix. .

[DannoXYZ]

I think the ZDDP levels were only lowered in oil-weights less than 50. So the 5w50 and 15w50 Mobil-1 oils were exempt and never had their ZDDP levels lowered during the API-SL, SM transitions. Their ZDDP levels remained at 1100 or higher.

The lower weight 10w40 and 0w30 had their ZDDP levels reduced from +1100 down to 800 and now down to 650. These are the oils that's causing premature and extreme-wear on valve-tappets and cam-lobes.

Ever since the API-SL regulations started taking effect, I made emphatically sure in writing on all work-orders that only oils with ZDDP higher than 1100 was to be used in my car. That resulted in 5w50 or 15w50 being used. I do happen to know quite a few guys who've had their cars destroyed by using the lower-weight oils with less ZDDP though. Then again, the ones using the "good" oils certainly appreciated having the values of their 1927 Rolls or '32 Packards increase after another one bit the dust from using bad oils.

[vbjunker]

Rotella T6 full synthetic 5w40
High (1200) ZDDP and phosphorous, buy it in Wally World at a reasonable price. My choice after reading a ton of these discussions.

Shell Rotella T - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia